Chypre-Siam

Chypre-Siam by Rogue Perfumery
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Chypre-Siam is a popular perfume by Rogue Perfumery for women and men. The release year is unknown. The scent is chypre-floral. The longevity is above-average. It is still in production.

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Fragrance Notes

Top Notes Top NotesKaffir lime, Basil
Heart Notes Heart NotesJasmine absolute, Ylang-ylang
Base Notes Base NotesOakmoss, Sandalwood, Benzoin, Leather, Civet, Spices

Ratings

Scent

8.6 (19 Ratings)

Longevity

8.2 (17 Ratings)

Sillage

7.5 (17 Ratings)

Bottle

8.1 (18 Ratings)
Submitted by Tanninaz, last update on 15.02.2020.
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Reviews

8.0 8.0 9.0 8.5/10
Profumo

0 Reviews
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Profumo
Profumo
Greatly helpful Review    26
The Persianer of my piano teacher
If you've always wanted to know what Chypres smelled like in those days when oakmoss was allowed to be used without restriction, you have two options: either you can look for a vintage scent, which should be quite 'vintage', since the use of oakmoss was limited in the 90s, or you can go for this scent.
Manuel Cross, the owner and perfumer of the label 'Rogue Perfumery', doesn't care one bit about the European guidelines and puts into his fragrances what in this country is only found in the poison cabinet: musk ketone, musk xylene and tons of oakmoss. Oakmoss with all the trimmings, spiked with atranol and chloratranol.
No wonder that his fragrances are not allowed to be sold here, but they are in faraway California, where life is a bit more casual anyway.
One can call 'Chypre Siam' a small act of rebellion against a bureaucracy that wants to protect us from health damage through total bans on fragrances, which trigger an allergic reaction in about 3% of consumers, but is extremely lax in its requirements for tobacco, alcohol or pesticides such as glyphosate.
The pleasure of being able to sniff 'Chypre Siam' in the middle of Europe is therefore almost subversive and increases the attraction immensely.

But 'Chypre Siam' is also such an extremely attractive fragrance. When I sprayed it on myself for the first time a few days ago, it was like seeing old friends who had moved awfully far away and whom you hadn't seen for half an eternity. The familiarity is instantly restored, but at the same time the painful feeling of being absent for too long.

Chypre Siam' makes them resurrect, the chypre stretches of the past. But without being a mere copy - the fragrance rather quotes them. Above all, the super-chypre par excellence: the legendary 'Chypre de Coty'. Unfortunately I don't know François Coty's 'Chypre', and you have to travel to the Osmothèque in Versailles to sniff at this legend, but I could imagine that 'Chypre Siam' is not too far from Coty's masterpiece. At least the interplay of jasmine, civet, musk and oakmoss seems to characterize both fragrances. Judging by the notes, Coty's 'Chypre' tends to be more floral-animal, while 'Chypre Siam' tends to be more spicy-animal leathery, beyond a similar floral heart. It's precisely these facets in the base that make the Rogue fragrance almost a typical leather chypre à la 'Cabochard' or 'Azurée', but only almost. The leatheriness remains a nuance that characterizes the base, but not the whole fragrance. Mitsouko' and 'Femme de Rochas' also have this leathery touch, but in 'Chypre Siam' it becomes more obvious. What the rogue fragrance lacks in contrast to 'Mitsouko' and 'Femme', however, are the aromatic sweet fruit aromas - no peach and plum far and wide.
But the fragrance starts with a fresh, bitter-tart and at the same time green-spicy opening, which is said to be due to kaffir lime and basil.

Had I not read the two notes in the pyramid, I would not have recognized them.
After several times into the fragrance, however, I suspect that it is these notes, together with an intense, indolisch-sweet jasmine note in the centre, which are supposed to give the name 'Siam' a fragrant touch.
Siam - for some reason, which I can only halfway explain, chypre fragrances are often linked to the Asian region: 'Mitsouko', 'Kintsugi', 'Siam'. It must have something to do with the mostly strongly contrasting chords, which together form a unity, a kind of Yin and Yang. Here the dark, bitter-moossy Yin, there the optional fruity-sweet, floral, or powdery-green Yang. In addition, the variety of aromas in Asia offers many such contrasts. Just think of the Asian cuisine, which is characterized by many taste contrasts such as sweet, sour, bitter and spicy.

This hesperidic-spicy prelude with a slight Asian touch is then instantly enveloped by a mighty oakmoss sound, the likes of which are actually only known from ancient 'Mitsouko' leftovers. And he is almost brutal, which may also be due to the fact that Manuel Cross, with all due respect for his skills, is no Jacques Guerlain after all. The oakmoss attack in 'Mitsouko' is much more civilized and rounded, dressed in haute couture, whereas in 'Chypre Siam' it is quite rough and wild. It literally hits you in the nose - a very interesting experience nowadays, since you usually only come across homeopathic doses of this fragrance or various synthetic substitutes, or more recently, as in the case of 'Kintsugi' or 'Chypre 21', a massive patchouli-algae chord that is supposed to copy the effect of the original oakmoss.
But here, in 'Chypre Siam' the real thing is really at work, and for a Cypriot like me, that is of course a real blast!
But despite all the joy of experiencing the famous chypre effect once again pure and in full regalia, the fragrance - contrary to expectations - did not knock me off my feet.
Yes, he smells great, and yet a slight disillusionment sets in.

Expecting too much? Maybe so
Anyway, I didn't have that famous wow moment that we perfume junkies all know so well. It was more of a: oh yes, very nice, not smelled for a long time, reminds me of this or that great fragrance.
With 'Kintsugi' and also 'Chypre 21', which some people think are fake chypre, it was different. That's when I felt this wow that just blew up in my face Maybe I am missing a more modern, contemporary language of fragrance after all. Smelling 'Chypre Siam' is a bit like looking at old paintings in a museum. Although this is sometimes exciting, it only contributes to the present day within a manageable framework. Newly conceived Chpyres like the ones already mentioned, but also 'French Affair', 'Chypre Shot' or 'Afternoon of a Faun', on the other hand, seem to me like contemporary art, the rooms open up to look ahead.
Sure, looking back is necessary to understand today, and sometimes it makes you wonderfully nostalgic, but in the long run it's the look ahead that tempts me.

So it remains a pleasure for me to smell 'Chypre Siam', but I will not wear the fragrance. If I did, it would be a little like wearing the Persian coat of my old piano teacher Strange comparison, I know, but somehow he gets it In a certain way, 'Chypre Siam' is quite old-fashioned, in a charming way, but 'modern' is really different, resp.: smells different.

By the way: the fragrance has a good persistence, with the final, powdery-mossy-leathery phase lasting the longest. The projection is quite lush, at higher dosage space-filling.
And don't fear the animal! Musk and civet are distinct components, especially of the middle fragrance, but are miles away from 'kouros' dimensions.

8 Replies
8.0 8.0 8.0 9.0/10
Drseid

694 Reviews
Drseid
Drseid
Helpful Review    4
Mr. Cross' Signature FU to the IFRA...
Chypre-Siam goes on skin with a mandarin orange, lemon-lime hybrid smelling kaffir lime accord, with early hints of floral jasmine rising from the perfume's heart. As the composition moves to its early heart, the lush white floral jasmine becomes the focal point, with slightly powdery co-staring yellow floral ylang-ylang and significant mossy green oakmoss rising from the base, bolstered by the subtle underlying support of multiple culinary herbs. During the late dry-down the florals gradually recede, leaving the oakmoss to pair with moderately powdery benzoin and slightly sweet sandalwood, with the composition turning leathery late, derived from a touch of (possibly real) civet joining in through the finish. Projection is excellent, as is longevity at 12-15 hours on skin.

Wow... Chypre-Siam is a stunner. It is so classically structured with pre-IFRA restriction nonsense ingredient types and amounts that this vintage perfume lover would swear it came out of the early 1900's if I didn't know better. The juice is a gorgeous mossy-green, foretelling the tremendous jasmine and oakmoss driven chypre concoction that has perfect balance from top-to-bottom. Perfumer Cross has many different successful compositions in his repertoire, but Chypre-Siam is the one he probably should be most proud of. I suppose if ignoring the IFRA, one could yield a convincing chypre, but getting the complete balance down is far from easy and I am sure Chypre-Siam was a labor of love that could have taken years to perfect. As a grateful wearer, this writer can only thank Mr. Cross for using his obvious talent to keep the true classic chypre alive and well. The bottom line is the $150 per 100ml bottle Chypre-Siam is a completely successful resurrection of the classic chypre, while still adding new wrinkles to the mix, earning a "near-masterpiece" 4.5 out of 5 star rating, and a super-strong recommendation in particular to lovers of classically structured perfumes who lament genre destroying IFRA restrictions.
5.0 7.0 8.0 8.5/10
JackHunter33

48 Reviews
JackHunter33
JackHunter33
3
A Vintage Lovers Dream
On the opening I get lush lime and basil with white florals of creamy ylang ylang and the most beautiful jasmine accord. There is exotic spices, sandalwood, hints of civet and a lovely sweet oakmoss to die for. These notes are constantly dancing around each other at the same time, what a beauty.

You can tell a lot of thought and careful consideration went into creating this. The scent is very complex and intricate with really natural smelling ingredients. They truly don't make them like this anymore. Thank god for Rogue Perfumery in bringing back the dying art of the true chypre fragrance. This is a vintage lovers dream of a fragrance!

Wonderful!
9.0 7.0 8.0 9.0/10
Tanninaz

0 Reviews
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Tanninaz
Tanninaz
Helpful Review    5
Chypre with tropical feeling
The fragrance begins green and fresh with a hint of lime, but it is also a bit herbaceous, probably basil. In time there are some more white flowers, but the floweriness is rather weaker, but I can smell the ylang relatively clearly, the jasmine rather less. But it remains relatively unsweet and not very bulky, fortunately, because with big white florals I don't get along so well.
The dry green ground note of oak wood is slightly softened by a little sandalwood and benzoin, but the scent never becomes sweet. A tiny bit it reminds me of Private Collection, from which I have a vintage mini, but with a Thai touch and more floral than green.

Rogue Perfumery states on his page that the percentages of oak moss are not IFRA-compliant and are used in significantly higher concentrations. So if you're looking for something like this, you'll find it here.
A very successful blind purchase for me.
1 Replies
EauMySoul

24 Reviews
EauMySoul
EauMySoul
Helpful Review    2
A masterful classic chypre
While scrolling Instagram recently, I couldn’t help but notice a photo of Chypre-Siam, being the vintage Coty fan that I am. It reflects the 1940’s (ish) French foil label style they used, and the same green and gold colors used for Chypre, the chypre that started them all. So, I hit the brakes and started reading. I commented that I it looked authentically vintage and the Instagrammer responded “smells even more vintage”. Okay, that’s all it took so I started googling.

I found the website and was immediately sold by the up front, no holds barred, proud exclamation by Manuel Cross of Rogue as being “non IFRA compliant fragrance art”. No stammering, no dancing around it, no “I hope nobody notices we aren’t compliant”, none of that, he clearly says I make perfume the way I want. I like him already. So, I reached out to him with some questions. He then generously offered to send me some samples.

So far I have only tried Chypre-Siam but I am so impressed already. He completely nails the feel of Coty Chypre but with a bit of a Mitsouko twist, especially in the opening. Fans of real oakmoss will be delighted by his “IFRA can jump off into a lake” stance because it’s full of it. This is a true classic chypre, masterfully created, with natural and synthetic materials perfectly balanced and used properly to enhance each other.

If you like true vintage style, run, I can’t recommend this highly enough. When I first smelled Chypre-Siam, I thought how can a new perfumer make something this good? Then I researched more and found that Manny has been studying perfumery, fragrance history and aroma chemicals for 10 years. Being a chef by trade, I assume that skill transferred over into making perfume as well. Good stuff.

Statements

Liisa 9 months ago
Ah Yes, definately classic high quality chypre here. Works wonderfully with my difficult skin, no complaints with longevity /sillage either+2

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