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Very helpful Review
"Sillages, Sons de Parfum"
At this year's International Herrenchiemsee Festival, which Ennoch von Guttenberg (one of his sons is better known than him) founded in 2000 in the Hall of Mirrors of the impressive castle, a special premiere for us perfumers took place.
The Portuguese composer Bruno Soeiro, together with the Basel Chamber Orchestra, presented his latest composition: "Sillages, Sons de Parfum". He's trying to make perfume traces audible.
That sounds quite interesting at first and, according to the reviewer of the Frankfurter Allgemeine Sonntagszeitung, he doesn't seem to have missed the real life with scents that much.
It says: "At times they (the perfume scent traces) seemed a little too strongly applied, but could also evaporate into surprisingly subtle decrescendi."
That this work lacks the finesse, however, was made clear in the next movement.
This is certainly an extraordinary attempt to capture scents in tones.
Do we know that fragrances have colours, shapes, sounds and even whole stories and memories? I can sing my own song about it and so I asked myself: would I have liked to be there when this sound child was born?
I'm not quite sure.
I'm sure I don't want to float on the scent of "Amber Aoud".
Oh, yeah! The Roja perfumes, which I got to know so far, gave new nourishment to my enthusiasm for oriental fragrances: I am really hungry for them!
"Amber Aoud" is a special fragrance event: smoky, spicy and woody Oud meets the warmth of precious ambergris.
But even with this extraordinary composition, the path first leads over a citrus-fresh bridge into this dreamlike fragrance Orient.
A pretty trio was put together here, which also welcomes the fig friendly.
Afterwards, however, you are already immersed in the luxuriousness of the flower worlds: Jasmine, again not quiet and fine.
No, jasmine shows its full beauty, which the enfleurage could elicit from the magnificent white flowers.
In the past it was said to have been exhilaratingly beautiful around Grasse to the jasmine blossom: huge fields dominated by flower masses - a sinful dream in scent.
In the meantime, large parts of the valley, which used to be green and fragrant, have been converted into industrial and luxury villas and apartments, destroying these valuable fields with natural fragrances.
Also the cultivation of the Mairose suffers a similar fate; against this is probably still fought.
"Money makes the World going round!" - unfortunately also here.
Maybe this knowledge makes me especially fond and precious of the two beauties Jasmine and Mairose in "Amber Aoud", combined here in such a fabulous way.
Combined with the generous embrace of luminous Ylang-Ylang, the fragrance now leads directly into the world of Thousand and One Nights.
A light-woody birch, the powdery iris and oak moss - beautiful dark green and warm - still form an aromatic fragrance greeting from Europe.
But already saffron embraces with an oriental touch; while patchouli provides the golden-brown earthy depth of this fragrance composition.
Musk and flirtatiously enticing cinnamon are fully integrated into this sensual creation - woody spice and creamy freshness of blossom beauty have so far offered themselves voluptuously.
But there is still something missing, the crowning finish; the couple that gives this Roja fragrance its name: golden ambergris warmth and oud, especially smoky and spicy.
But these two seem to bring me a little animalistic smelling friend.
Because also I perceive a not so quite weak Zibet note mentioned in other places.
All these precious scents are driven once again by a magic baton to the sonorous scent finale:
"Be embraced..." "Amber Aoud" seems to sing loud and melodious.
Like a scent and sound painting in the rich colours yellow, brown, golden brown and gold, this extraordinary seducer of senses appears.
For several hours "Amber Aoud" beguiles, not exactly shy and quiet. This fragrance god knows its value and is not willing to take a single step back.
This is also not necessary: I gladly leave the guidance to him with this completely special dance of the senses!
Because many a precious fragrance whirl makes me stagger easily - that's why I need the embrace of this powerful luxury being!
So be welcome!