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From the journey to the personal oud scent
In the last few months I have been driven more and more into the world of oud. Far away from being an expert, I could at least get a little closer to the subject. No fragrance genre that would have appealed to me directly as a newcomer 2.5 years ago. But the manifold attributes of the dark wafts of scent, the creativity of nature and the adventurous production of the raw material contributed their part to the restrained fascination.
I deliberately want to limit my collection to a maximum of 20, or even better 15 flacons. That way I keep the overview and don't have to bury fragrances in my head too often, because everyday life is just around the corner with my scythe. Nevertheless, I would like to cover the widest possible range within the scope of my taste. Which of course ensures that fragrances really have to hit the mark so that they get a foundation in my collection.
Now I wanted to find an oud scent for myself. So the first question is, what does oud smell like? I have answered this question with mini-samples of an oud oil and some attars (according to my research the range of scents is very wide, from fruity green to fecal brown). The result: Just because something is precious, I do not have to wear it in its pure form. Too pristine, too much steam under the bonnet, too far away from a perfume I want to wear in public. But: Learned something again.
So what do I expect from my oud perfume? What are the parameters?
- Strong oud focus without much accessories (e.g. rose)
- Authentic impression, powerful, deep, black, very distinctive, without being too animalistic
- Little sweetness
- Must stand out, but also work in a restaurant with non-scented freaks
- Urban-edel - therefore does not evoke pictures of horse stables (matter of taste)
Very animalistic oud scents like Oud Luwak bubble in my perception. I virtually perceive a restless movement when smelling. This should not trigger my oud scent. Rather, it carries the dynamics compressed within itself, suggests its nature, hides it much more in its depth.
In my collection Black Afgano comes closest to this. But the focus here is on the dark resins, the slightly herbaceous smoke, which is surrounded by a liqueur-like sweetness (see fragrance commentary). So far, only Oud Imperial by Perris Monte Carlo was really close to the ideal in the Extrait edition. Looks very authentic and powerful, only the point "urban-noble" is not 100% realized. A bit too much incense stick attitude. At least for me.
The best scent discoveries usually came to me with a supplier called Chance. Beauty often comes when you let go. Same here. A little extra from a fragrance order, 1-drop strong, just enough to roughly capture the scent character. And then there's Roja Dove. In my commentary on Elysium Cologne (which I own and like very much) I have already critically examined the brand's intended luxury attitude. Not out of envy - I'm happy for every person who is professionally successful and doesn't have to worry about money. Even the creator (if he really is, given the large number of new releases) seems likeable and thoroughly charismatic in interviews. But because I think that luxury should speak for itself. I'd better not start with the prices. But I do rate fragrances. And the fragrance can't help it. You don't choose your family. At least that's what I've heard
I had to sniff the quickly emptied sample so often that I gave up at some point: It's okay, Scent-God, I got it. Finally I dared to order a 7.5ml atomiser directly from Roja.
And I must say: This comes very, very close to my wishful thinking about what is unfolding!
The first 30 minutes can be daunting, that should be clear. The fact that I am so enthusiastic as a patchouli denier is like a small miracle. The oud grabs him and makes him his partner in crime, turns him into his Clyde. The patchouli-owd combo is rapidly making its way to the memory, just at the start. With breathtaking speed and pointed concentration. This is what it's all about. Nothing stings, everything is soft and cuddly within the scope of depth and darkness. Only if the patchouli is applied in larger doses, it can initially appear a little harsh. Not in the sense of a synthetic sharpness, it looks soft despite the punch as described. But in the sense of a short overdose. But this will subside - the partners will become equal in the course of time
I hardly notice the floral notes that are often used in Rojas. Which plays right into my hands. It is more modern and oriental here. But in such a way that it is pleasant for a western nose like mine. To be quite honest: All I smell is patchouli, oud and a little oregano. I have to pass on Cypriol and Gurjun balm - I haven't smelled them alone yet. Sometimes benzoin adds warmth.
I don't notice an extremely strong fragrance development after 30 minutes - but I don't have this claim either. After the rapid start, the whole thing catches a bit, becomes calmer and more relaxed. The scent gains dryness, a very pleasant, reserved sweetness is added. The shelf life is very good, the fragrance is very present.
H - The Exclusive Aoud seems to me very stylish, strongly masculine, self-confident and meets the attribute urban-noble bravura. It's not a true solo oud fragrance, but the patchouli blends so pleasantly with the oud and gives it a certain earthiness, which fits the nature of the eaglewood resin, so that a very authentic oud impression is created. This fragrance is a statement and should be worn with self-confidence. Despite its high masculinity and complete absence of freshness, the fragrance has been well received by the non-scented faction so far. Which makes me very happy. So I have to say that my above mentioned parameters have been fulfilled to at least 90%. Which is why I gladly forgive this score.
I don't read a lot about that scent online. Also here on Parfumo there is hardly any talk about H - The Exclusive Aoud. Wrongly, in my opinion. This here is really a fragrance that you have to leave on your skin for a longer period of time. But also nice to discover such a pearl so unexpectedly.
My flight to the oud world is certainly not finished yet. I will still often be surprised and I am looking forward to it. But I am very happy with this truth and I recommend it to everyone who is reflected in my initial words and wants to discover the depths of the oud. A bottle could become a long-term reality for me. I will probably have to make friends with Swarovski crystals.