Let me introduce you to the Tiramisù, a classic Italian dessert with Ladyfingers. The original recipe consists of egg, sugar, mascarpone cheese, Savoiardi biscuits (Ladyfinger), strong moka coffee, a bit of Marsala liquor, and cocoa for dusting. That's it, and the final amazing taste and smell are supposed to be the backbone of Uomo... Let's see.
To start off, it is pretty evident that the bottle is remarkably similar to that of Lalique’s new fragrance for men, L’Insoumis. Despite they have different logos embossed on the two sides of the bottle, the concept is identical. Nonetheless, the two scents have nothing in common and they are diverging from each other, Uomo is oriental-gourmand whereas L'Insoumis is woody-aromatic.
Smelling Uomo on a card won't give you anywhere near an accurate idea of how it will smell on your skin. This is a gorgeous scent. Similarities to ZARA "Ganache Tonka" I feel but much smoother, more complex and far better I'd argue, with the plus of Tiramisù secret ingredient. Uomo is non-linear, it follows the familiar structure of spicy top notes, praline-like middle, and woody-ambery base. Uomo starts very strong, it opens with a blast of licorice-coffee-coconut like accord, blended with balsamic green cardamom, and spicy black pepper that kicks in a few minutes later. The velvety bergamot is just a hint, like a drop in the ocean, not dominating the opening. At a first glance, the scent is overtly fresh, balsamic, and sweet but not cloying, indeed gourmand but not obnoxious.
So far so good, but... where is the dessert? Here it comes. The heart announces with a dominant accord of Tiramisù, so smooth and suave, the concoction of cocoa, coffee, Marsala, and vanillic-cream is crystal clear, supported and balanced with some other sweet notes, perhaps the soft touch of orange blossom.
And then the dry down, the base is a kind of powdery cacao and roasted tonka bean vibe, yet blended with the creaminess of the blond woods, cashmere and sandal to extend the sweet-vanillic aroma. Tonka here is a great choice, instead of overwhelming everything which came before with vanilla, the tonka picks up the coffee and cocoa transporting them to the final moments of Uomo.
That said, Uomo is still pretty impressive, all things considered. Many seem to classify it as cloyingly sweet, but I regard it more as a sweet blend with more traditional aromatic masculine elements. The Tiramisù is front-and-center but doesn't dominate the fragrance nonetheless. The sweetness is paired with sharper elements to start and in the dry down the experience becomes smoother, more relaxing. It's slightly spicier at the opening due to the cardamom and black pepper, which give way after about an hour to the Tiramisù and eventually to woods and tonka in the dry down. I admit I don't get much bergamot or orange blossom, just a hint --not really any citrus or floral contributions at all to this. It's mainly a sweet and woody composition to my nose, which is fine by me and amazing.
On my skin Uomo has 7-8 hour longevity and average sillage, which makes it good for work and a number of occasions. Its sweet, woody, sensual notes make me preferring it for fall-winter cold seasons, for special occasion, yet for leisure, party, and clubbing. Despite the recommended target is young people, I do like it and don't find it inappropriate for middle-aged silvery foxes men like me.