Cuir mauresque 1996

Cuir mauresque by Serge Lutens
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7.8 / 10166 Ratings
Cuir mauresque is a popular perfume by Serge Lutens for women and men and was released in 1996. The scent is leathery-spicy. The longevity is above-average. It is still available to purchase. Pronunciation
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Fragrance Notes

Myrrh, Styrax, Frankincense, Cinnamon, Cedar, Civet, Nutmeg, Clove, Musk, Mandarin orange zest, Orange blossom, Amber, Oud, Cumin

Ratings

Scent

7.8166 Ratings

Longevity

8.5118 Ratings

Sillage

7.6114 Ratings

Bottle

8.3118 Ratings
Submitted by Kankuro, last update on 11.03.2021.
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Reviews

10
Scent
8
Longevity
8
Sillage
9
Bottle
Cumulnimbus

86 Reviews
Cumulnimbus
Cumulnimbus
   1  
Leather paradise
I tested this exquisite leather perfume for the first time long ago in Lutens Palais Royal boutique. Back then I went for Tubereuse Criminalle which can still move me to tears with is precious unique dramatic tuberose. But I couldn't forget Cuir Mauresque and it has been calling me in with its tender feline whispers ever since. On my skin CM is a perfect blend of leather, spices, resinous amber, animalic and woody notes with a pinch of orange blossom and distanced echo of mandarine peel. For those who like me admire leathers as Tabac Blond, Miss Balmain, Bandit, Jolie Madame, Eau d'Hermes, Gomma or Rabanne's La nuit, or spicy animalic vintage perfumes, Cuir Mauresque can be nothing but a total pleasure. Lustful as a perfume can get to be.

I got myself a large 100ml black bottle and I just couldn't be happier. This is my paradise.
Pepdal

217 Reviews
Pepdal
Pepdal
   0  
Maur leather please
Today's review comes from a house that i am generally a big fan of, and also being a fan of leather I was looking forward to trying this perfume for quite some time. I hope you find it informative and thanks for watching.


10
Scent
10
Longevity
7.5
Sillage
7.5
Bottle
MasterLi

375 Reviews
MasterLi
MasterLi
   6  
The only fragrance Serge Lutens wears himself.. and Morocco in a bottle!
Cuir Mauresque or "Moorish Leather" is a very typically brilliant perfume creation from the house of Serge Lutens, under the direction of the brilliant Christopher Sheldrake.

The reason this composition is so brilliant, is because there is no leather in the notes! Leather "extract" itself does not exist in perfume making... much like the note of "amber", it is up to the perfumer to create the "illusion" of leather in a fragrance, and that is what Mr. Sheldrake has done brilliantly here.

The fragrance opens up with a beautiful, heady combination of orange blossom and cumin, with indolic jasmine and a hint of tuberose (similar to another Lutens creation: Fleurs d'Oranger). Then the nutmeg, cloves and "burnt" styrax come in, with a good dose of civet and resins, all of which creates the impression of a "leather" note... and what a note it is! The leather here instantly takes me to Morocco, where leather hides are tanned using citrus oils and sweet musks... it's really quite something!

Cuir Mauresque is a beautiful fragrance, if you want to "get" or "understand" what Serge Lutens is all about, this should be the first place to start. It will not be for everyone, but if you really appreciate the art of perfumery, you will see this one as one of his best, recalling the great leather "classics" such as Caron - Tabac Blond or Fracas. It's also very sensual and sexy in my opinion... and would smell totally seductive on any classy gentleman or lady. In fact, this is the only fragrance that Serge Lutens wears himself! Wonderful! For me, this is Morocco in a bottle...
1 Replies
3
Scent
5
Longevity
5
Sillage
7.5
Bottle
WRoth

153 Reviews
WRoth
WRoth
Helpful Review    2  
Cuir Mauresque
This fragrance opens with notes of orange blossom enhanced by mandarin peel, spices and smoke. The result is a rich oriental melange in which the leather accord is not immediately seen. Only after the preceding dominant orange blossom note has calmed down, does the leather note appear. It is unlike the leather accords seen in Daim Blond and Boxeuses, it is thicker and sturdier. I'd use this kind of leather to make a Hermes saddle or a Balenciaga biker jacket. Once the leather accord has taken its rightful throne the remainder of the herald notes gather around it to create a very sensual and soothing scent. As the fragrance progresses warmer notes such amber, myrrh and musk add a powdery clean finish to the leather accord intensifying its comforting qualities. My only quibble with this fragrance is the overuse of orange blossom and amber, to me they smother the leather accord which I would have fleshed out more.
10
Scent
10
Longevity
7.5
Sillage
7.5
Bottle
Flaconneur

49 Reviews
Flaconneur
Flaconneur
Top Review    9  
CUIR MAURESQUE by Serge Lutens
Let's talk about the always interesting and very controversial, Cuir Mauresque by Serge Lutens. This fragrance is pure genius, and the name suggests that it was inspired by Moorish leather. Many people find it hard to wrap their minds around its structure, but you have to like this classification to enjoy its benefits. It was originally introduced in 1996 as a non-export, bell jar exclusive but was made available as part of the export line in 2010. It is a warm, rich leather scent and one of my top choices from Serge Lutens.

Serge Lutens seems to enjoy the element of surprise in his fragrances and Cuir Mauresque is no exception. You are first slapped with the essence of plastic, or perhaps even a petrochemical overdose. The opening proves to be terribly medicinal and even unbearable at times, but the harshness does eventually subside. What exactly is all this unpleasantness in the opening? It seems to be the combination of fragrant orange blossom, intensely sweet mandarin peel and the richness of straight-up leather. These notes create a dried fruit like sweetness, comparable to the sweetness and sharpness that you sense when smelling a holiday fruit cake after the ingredients blend. The leather note in Cuir Mauresque is there right from the start. As it takes the main stage, it is met with a familiar spicy culinary combination of nutmeg, clove and cumin, which season this fragrance. Burnt styrax, myrrh and incense make perfect companions for the luxe leathery richness this scent conjures up. The resinous quality, blended with smoky myrrh and incense, adds an interesting complexity to the fragrance's background. Cuir Mauresque turns into a compelling soft amber and cinnamon scent with a hefty leather structure once in the dry-down stage. The use of woods is an interesting one in Cuir Mauresque. Aloe wood and cedar seem to be playing more of a structural role, giving the leather history. The woods give a feeling of a store filled with antique books and artifacts, that scent that buries itself in the recesses of your memory. The light floral, spicy elements and husky leather with harmonious woods give Cuir Mauresque a character unmatched in the fragrance world.

Cuir Mauresque doesn't seem to elicit opinions in the middle ground; people either love or hate this fragrance. Leather fragrances, in general, do not take center stage in mainstream perfumery for this very reason. Cuir Mauresque embodies all that a leather fragrance should be: warm, spicy, slightly floral, deep, resinous and comforting. There is some stiff competition in this classification and many different themes, but Cuir Mauresque is probably the most successful at fostering a beautiful, luxurious, warm and comforting ambience.
3 Replies
6
Scent
7.5
Longevity
Sherapop

1239 Reviews
Sherapop
Sherapop
Helpful Review    4  
Hold On To Your Saddle, Cowboy!!!!
It's almost redundant to say that a Serge Lutens perfume is intense, so let me say that CUIR MAURESQUE is *really* intense. Hold on to your saddle, cowboy, 'cause it's been very well oiled! The combination of sharpness, black oil, and leather makes CUIR MAURESQUE another big event perfume, by which I mean: you'd better not plan on getting a lot done when you don this action-packed potion. This is the sort of perfume which you wear not as a decoration but as your entire evening's entertainment.

Do I like it? I find myself, once again, in confronting a challenging creation by le Grand Serge, thinking that this is not an event which needs to be repeated very often, because the experience itself is so unforgettable. Like I said: *really* intense. A dark, oily, sharp black leather perfume about five times stronger than the competition. No one could possibly consume 100ml of this in a lifetime. Could they?
3 Replies

Statements

BoBoChampBoBoChamp 2 months ago
8.5
Scent
8
Longevity
8
Sillage
A warm and gently leathery, oriental spicy-floral Fall fragrance, with a pungent, animalic spicy-fruity opening. Nice resinous-sweet base.
AncaanAncaan 4 years ago
Sometimes repulsive, sometimes alluring, always fascinating. Sweet, sexy, skanky, spicy. What a journey this perfume is!

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