Datura noir (Eau de Parfum) by Serge Lutens
01/20/2012
7.5 3.0/10
Reminds me of a Discontinued Masterpiece...
Tuberose is tricky. In Serge Lutens DATURA NOIR, it is very, very thick, in large part, I believe, due to the marked coconut note. Coconut is also tricky, and tends to overwhelm in more than minuscule doses. To my nose, this combination of tuberose and coconut is simply too heavy-handed. I love the tuberose in FRACAS and CARNAL FLOWER, but combined with the coconut cream in this composition, it seems dense and impenetrable, like a blob of, well, yes, I hate to admit it: suntan lotion!

My objection to this scent is not grounded in a general abhorrence of tropical tuberose compositions. Believe it or not, I number among the tiny faction of true believers in and fervent devotees of Guerlain MAHORA. Why do I regard MAHORA as a masterpiece (Guerlain's final chef-d'oeuvre, may that once illustrious house rest in peace...) and DATURA NOIR as something of a flop? Perhaps it is the sheer weight of the later which drags it down, preventing any significant development on my skin. MAHORA, in contrast, unfurls in delightful layers over the course of its trajectory from opening to drydown. I truly love MAHORA (which many people detest), and yet I would never wear DATURA NOIR, even if I had a bottle lying around.

I have seen no comparisons by anyone of DATURA NOIR to MAHORA but would be very interested to know what those who adore DATURA NOIR think of the Guerlain perfume (launched in 2000, one year before SL DN...). My suspicion is that anyone who loves DATURA NOIR would also love MAHORA, though I obviously serve as a refutation of the converse claim! (-: And it seems pretty clear to me that anyone who hates MAHORA is unlikely to think highly of DATURA NOIR.

The moral of this story: no one who lacks infinite liquid assets should buy niche perfume scent unsniffed!
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