Fille en aiguilles by Serge Lutens

Fille en aiguilles 2009

23.01.2022 - 10:10 PM
Helpful Review

About pine forests, fairies and elves

"Fille en Aiguilles" literally means "girl with needles". As an expression it can mean "girl in heels", "girl on blades" or "girl on sharp rocks"... the last two hypotheses don't really present me with an image I find pleasing. My father always taught me to stay away from my mother or my sisters when they handled needles. I also learned not to feel comfortable easily around a girl holding a needle, even if she wore a cap with a red cross on it. On the contrary, pine needles are totally trustworthy to me and the presence of any girl holding these needle branches will always be most welcome.
The scent of pine needles is green, dark, peppery, minty, relaxing, soothing, uplifting, refreshing and remarkable for its purifying power. They easily evoke the smell a beloved Christmas tree should have if it wasn't made of plastics.
All places have their own smells although many of them seem to smell like nothing to us. Often, their vulgarity cannot overcome our indifference. In general, we associate forestry scents with pleasuring smells. Mediterranean woods are rich in pines and occasional bay leaf and fir trees. The environment is normally dry by the sea breezes and balsamic by the decomposition of the heap of compounds formed by leaves, needles, cones, cortices, and pollen. They are an olfactory source of pleasure that we all keep in our memory.

Serge Lutens, through the mastery of Christopher Sheldrake, presented us in 2009 with what I consider to be one of his best perfumes. It is difficult to remain indifferent to #Fille en Aiguilles. In it reigns the strong aroma of a Mediterranean forest, loaded with woody notes, green, balsamic, lightly smoked, but spiced with some spices, both fresh and warm, and especially with a nuance rounded by sweet and slightly honeyed dried fruits. The strength of a woodland breeze is powerfully present but seems to have been blown by a sweet and soothing fairy.
This perfume was for me love at first sight. More than a decade after I first smelled it, I still have a passion that I find hard to equal or surpass. This fragrance has captivated me in such a way that I am always reminded of other perfumes that evoke this same atmosphere. I could mention names like Norne (2012) and La couche du diable, like other creations that have also enchanted me with their bewitching, dark, gloomy and wonderful forest strength. But in my heart remains outstanding this charming girl full of pine needle branches in her lap.

My rating for this wood fairy scent:
___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___
- Opening: 10.0 (A linear scent but with an over pleasant Mediterranean pine forest, a bit dark, a bit smoky and lightly sweet)
- DryDown: 9.0 (A similar scent but fainter)
- Longevity: 8.0 (3 sprays last up to 7~8 hours)
- Sillage: 7.0 (4~5 feet of sillage and up to 2.0 hours of projection, with 3 sprays.)
- Uniqueness: 9.0 (It's still unique although it recalls some scent nuances that you can find in more recent fragrances like Replica - Soul of the Forest or Norne (2012) or even La couche du diable)
- Wearability: 7.5 (Not suitable for mild or hot weather; a winter and fall fragrance)
- Versatility: 8.5 (Unisex fit for day or night use mainly at leisure or for a night event)
- Praise: 7.5 (Forestry, a bit dark green and smoky, a bit sweet and smooth; Not really consensual)
- Quality: 9.0 (Well above average quality impression, but average sillage and projection)
- Presentation: 9.0 (Simple, attractive, but similar to all other Lutens perfumes)
- Price: 6.5 (The 50 ml bottle stands for an average €90 price)
___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___
Overall rating: 8.27 / 10.00
- between 7 and 8 = above average;
- between 8 and 9 = recommended;
- above 9 = definitely not to be missed;

My opinion:
A landmark fragrance for you to recall a pine tree enchanted forest populated with friendly creatures. Due to its high price, you'd better try it before purchasing it. I quite like it in its many nuances. It's dark green, fresh, spicy, warm, cozy, sweet, smoky... you name it!

Music: Rick Wakeman - "The Forest" included in "Journey To The Centre Of The Earth" album

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