Fourreau Noir´s limited edition bottle (that sadly i don´t own) was decorated with a crouching cat watching the moon, and how appropriate is the image of the cat to describe this scent! I cannot be more against the use of furs, as clothes and as names, so i was happy to know the fourreau in question was still on its legitimate owner and that this one is no other than a feline.
To be honest, Fourreau Noir didn´t trigger my curiosity from the beginning since it features a very traditional tonka bean-lavender. Of course, being a Lutens it couldn´t be in the expected, conventional, fougere way. Nevertheless, let me tell you, Fourreau Noir is one of this Lutens that are not difficult to wear at all, and many of the Lutens-skepticals will find it pleasant and lovable.
So this fawn fluid smell first and foremost to tonka. Picture an elastic body covered of the smoothest hair, moving with a wild elegance. Sweet, warm and balsamic, full of nuances as tonka is. Then the most important modifyer is a truly invisible lavender, just as a subtle herb/camphor fresh overlay that brings vivacity to the tonka. This incognito lavender is a drop of full awaken grey that balances the warmth of the fragance: the crystalline cat eyes, the spark of a fang or a claw breaking the sweet/smoky evenness of the fur. This is not a decorative dead skin, it has well-tempered muscles and nerves of steel underneath.
This seamless blend, the way lavender is there but it is not, and the smokiness, is what makes this perfume IMHO remarkable in its category.
The evolution is pretty linear. In any case, it starts slightly sweeter and it gets more balsamic, after a while... but its a perfect ratio of sweet, aromatic and smoky, with master touches of spice, resin and seductive animalic musk. Noir? probably not, dark, yes. Dun fur.
Fourreau Noir is not an attention seeker, but captivates unintentionally instead; like we admire the cat graciously running with swift feet along the balcony´s railing: defying gravity, totally in control of his furry body, careless of being noticed or not, leaving us in awe.