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The spirits divide over liquorice, the spirits divide over a liquorice scent as well.
Above the town there is an ancient fortress and in the street there is a brewery. The scent of malt, yeast and barley spreads over the city. I go for a walk and wherever I go it smells like bread and dark beer. Mmmmh. Jeux de Peau reminds me of my time in Edinburgh, whose scent has burned itself into me, whom I have learned to love.
What do many people find so disgusting about the scent? He smells quite tame, a brewery and some brine, a little warm milk... I like Jeux de Peau. It is not a pompous, sticky scent of flowers, but something completely different. We humans are not flowers, because it is strange that we constantly try to smell them...
What the key question is: Does a perfume need flowers and blossoms & does a perfume need musk? I remember a rather unpleasant bus ride, an experience that many people probably know in a similar form: A somewhat older lady with a lot of thunder is sitting next to me and a cloud of sweet rose-amber-something is wafting around her. The air stays away from me, but unfortunately it blocks the escape route. All right, be brave, hang in there.
The perfume was, of course, heavily overdosed, as if to conceal the dark secret - "I'm sorry, dear dog rose, we can't be together any longer! I'm not really a flowering shrub, I'm a human being!" Separation, drama, tears
In my fantasy the woman is apparently associated with a dog rose... D but seriously, that's how such an over-fragrancing with flowers affects me.
I like the smell of skin. Skin smells nice. (All who have babies and / or beloved partners can certainly confirm this).
Do you always have to be able to perceive a perfume as such?
I would argue that Jeux de Peau is not trying to do exactly that. It's coming the other way. Intensify skin odour & highlight different aspects of it.
Whether you like it is another matter.
Whether it succeeded, also.
For me, wearing Jeux de Peau means wearing the scent of the city. When I close my eyes, I see them in front of me. The brewery, the asphalted streets, the warm dust on the sidewalks, the smell of the bakeries, bread, Danish Danish pastries, old bricks in the sun, salt liquorice, hot milk from the cafés... warm skin?
Delicious bitter notes, very gently rounded off by sweet milk. The salty liquorice brings the tension. It doesn't smell like skin to me, I don't think Lutens & Sheldrake wanted to try it either, but the fragrance is composed of notes that I feel come from a similar fragrance category to skin. Maybe that's why the "Jeux" in the name, the gimmicks.