12/07/2020

Intersport
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Intersport
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L'Innommable, Beckett, 1953
Cumin, fenugreek, and helichrysum will probably be doomed forever to be simplified in 'western' forums on curry, Indian cooking, and subcontinental grocery stores. I wonder if in corresponding forums in India Jicky et al. are mentioned in the same breath as Coq Au Vin and rosemary potatoes? L'Innommable - according to a Beckett piece, why not - is perhaps Luten's most distinctive Immortelle / Helichrysum / Strawflower perfume, which with its cumin content actually evokes memories of spice blends - specifically, the complexity of Japanese 'Indira' curry powder, seemingly simple on the surface but in fact elaborate due to the high number of ingredients, including unexpected ones like orange zest. L'Innommable works in a similar way, there is certainly more at work here than stated. I'm a fan of Sables and whenever someone talks about 'curry' in perfumes, I get an earful, it could be something with helichrysum. If you can't get anything out of this plant, L'Innommable is the place to go. Lutens has also introduced more complex scents with strawflower in Arabie, Chêne and most recently Le Participe Passé, but never as directly as here. L'Innommable is intense, I use it sparingly - for all its Helichrysum fascination - and the development is more than linear - in other words, there is almost no dynamic. Why such a special interest fragrance was chosen as a prelude to the gratte ciel repackaging and the associated price development, which seems like a retirement plan for Lutens - is strange, but L'Innommable is worth a test if you are interested in Helichrysum.
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