12/07/2020
Intersport
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Intersport
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L'Innommable, Beckett, 1953
Cumin, fenugreek, and helichrysum will probably forever be doomed to be simplified in 'western' forums to curry, Indian cooking, and subcontinental grocery stores. I wonder if in appropriate forums in India Jicky et al are also mentioned in the same breath as Coq Au Vin and Rosemary Potato?! L'Innommable - based on a Beckett play, why not - is perhaps Luten's most distinctive Immortelle / Helichrysum / Strawflower perfume, which with its cumin proportions actually evokes memories of spice blends - specifically, of the complexity of Japanese 'Indira' Curry Powder: ostensibly simple-seeming but in truth, elaborate due to numerous ingredients, including unexpected ones like orange zest.
L'Innommable works similarly, there is certainly more at work than indicated. I'm Sables (1985) fan and whenever someone talks about 'curry' in perfumes I become alert, it could be something with Helichrysum. If you don't like this plant, L'Innommable will quickly turn you away, and Lutens has already presented more complex fragrances with strawflower notes with Arabie (2000), Chêne (2004) or most recently Le Participe Passé (2018), but never as reduced as here. L'Innommable is intense, I use it - for all its Helichrysum fascination - most sparingly, and the development is linear - meaning virtually no dynamics. Fenugreek and cumin are in the foreground, and below the benzoin note slumbers a barely sweet and only minimally bitter note of Immortelle Absolut. Why such a special interest fragrance was chosen as a prelude to the gratte ciel repackaging and the associated price development, which seems like a retirement plan for Lutens - is strange, L'Innommable if interested in Immortelle nevertheless worth a test.
L'Innommable works similarly, there is certainly more at work than indicated. I'm Sables (1985) fan and whenever someone talks about 'curry' in perfumes I become alert, it could be something with Helichrysum. If you don't like this plant, L'Innommable will quickly turn you away, and Lutens has already presented more complex fragrances with strawflower notes with Arabie (2000), Chêne (2004) or most recently Le Participe Passé (2018), but never as reduced as here. L'Innommable is intense, I use it - for all its Helichrysum fascination - most sparingly, and the development is linear - meaning virtually no dynamics. Fenugreek and cumin are in the foreground, and below the benzoin note slumbers a barely sweet and only minimally bitter note of Immortelle Absolut. Why such a special interest fragrance was chosen as a prelude to the gratte ciel repackaging and the associated price development, which seems like a retirement plan for Lutens - is strange, L'Innommable if interested in Immortelle nevertheless worth a test.
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