La couche du diable 2019

La couche du diable by Serge Lutens
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7.8 / 10100 Ratings
La couche du diable is a popular perfume by Serge Lutens for women and men and was released in 2019. The scent is resinous-smoky. The longevity is above-average. It is being marketed by Shiseido Group / Beauté Prestige International. Pronunciation
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Fragrance Notes

OudOud
CistusCistus

Ratings

Scent

7.8100 Ratings

Longevity

8.189 Ratings

Sillage

7.789 Ratings

Bottle

8.194 Ratings

Value for money

7.326 Ratings
Submitted by Nanina, last update on 22.11.2021.
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Reviews

Grizzlyscent

7 Reviews
Grizzlyscent
Grizzlyscent
   1  
The Scent of the Sins
"How can one attend the coronation of Satan without ever once having tasted sin? Oud and labdanum come together to create a diabolical and sumptuous veil of indulgence and remorse for a first transgression." is how the Lutens website describes La Couche du Diable, a name that, quite aptly, translates to "The Devil's Bedsheets"

If ever any of the hyperbole used in the marketing of fragrances was true, it would be here. And if sin had a scent, it would be this. So much so, in fact, that I was, and am, compelled to remark that the 7 deadly sins were bottled Christopher Sheldrake in this scent. And be warned, it truly is a devilish delight, but absolutely not for the faint of heart, or the novice nose. And embody them, it does.

Pride; Wearing this fragrance brings about a change in the way one carries themselves, almost unconsciously. One smells regal, untouchable and proud. Almost as if "above" those around them.
Greed; A spray, perhaps two, but no more. Every drop, something precious and rare, not for mere mortals, but only for those that have dined with Lucifer in the fires of hades.
Envy; An abstract thought, and perhaps one difficult to articulate, but the feeling evoked whilst wearing this, is one that is missed in a manner almost cruel after the fact, as if the person adorned by this fragrance is another version of the self, unbothered by the opinions of the crowd, instead choosing to care only about luxury and indulgence. And it is that feeling that one is envious of.
Gluttony; The fragrance itself is gluttonous in the extreme, filled with precious material, every waft a rich, warm and opulent aroma, the distinct smells of luxury moving through it.
Wrath; As the color suggests, this fragrance is anything but kind. Nay, it is angry, like the fires from whence it's been inspired. It is the color of rage...of passion.
Sloth; As bright as the it burns, it is also a test of patience. It is slow to develop, to reveal its secrets and hidden pleasures. It is languid and ever present, savoring every sin as you indulge.
Lust; The sin all are familiar with, and that requires no further explanation. Anyone who smells it, will understand immediately.

Now my own rambling hyperbole aside, I must move on to how the scent smells, more than what it evokes, although for me, the latter is often more important than the former.

La Couche du Diable is opens with a cinnamon-boozy accord, with a citruses going through it, lasting for a good while, as the fragrance evolves, bringing with it a metallic, almost blood like tang, as the amber, labdanum and woods begin to take center stage, turning it warmer and more austere. The oud in this fragrance is something I can barely detect, except to say it smells, somewhere in its evolution, like warm skin. There are no discernable Top, Heart or Base notes to me, instead it flits and evolves from one sin to another, staying true to its amber-spiced core, with notes of flowers, citrus fruits and woods coming and going as they please. It toes the line, almost crossing into middle-eastern perfumery, but remaining firmly planted within the west.

This scent is best suited for fall and winter, and you wear it for yourself, since it is unlikely to garner many compliments, especially from the masses, that prefer the blue fragrances to anything even remotely creative. The longevity is excellent, but it stays close to the skin, which I believe is quite appropriate, since only the "chosen" will get to smell it. And smell it you must, not only to experience truly daring perfumery, but also to understand the plethora of feelings this concoction evokes.

To summarize, dark, indulgent, and sinful. Sweet and spicy. Unique in the extreme. Stunning.
9
Scent
8
Longevity
6
Sillage
8
Bottle
Intersport
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Intersport
Intersport
Top Review    17  
Lutens' Labdanum

La Couche du Diable is Lutens' remarkable interpretation of Labdanum. One might well ask why only now, when the cistrose from which this complex fragrance comes, does it fit well into the SL prey scheme. A plant with resin-scented, sticky leaves, and long cultural and historical significance, dating back to the time of the Pharaohs; a plant that thrives in the most barren soils, defying heat, such as the lowest temperatures at night, and the heaviest rain showers. The extremely resinous, dry, slightly rubbery, as aptly mentioned in the other comments, is perhaps also reflected in the name. Couch is, despite all other puns, as often with Lutens, simply the 'paint' or 'layer'
The combination of dry resinousness, heat and fruitiness evokes vague memories of other Lutens': Arabie or Fille en Anguille. This association with older Lutens fragrances raises questions for me: for almost 30 years, Lutens has been producing a number of polarizing and still much-discussed fragrances with Sheldrake like few others. Maybe that's why discussions of newer Lutens' perfumes often mention remarks like 'Lutens from the past', 'old style Serge', etc. This is remarkable, a point of view that is rarely found in discussions about other houses. At least I have never read about Guerlain of yesteryear, or anything like that. And which 'earlier' is meant? There were always changes of direction at Lutens. Starting with the many 'Bois' variations, continuing with decent North African, ortial cultural spaces, or pronounced French themes, like oak, vetiver, lavender and thyme, etc. With newer perfumes like L'Innomnable, Le participe passé as well as La Couche du Diable, I had to think of a few serge features, despite all the caution with such nostalgia.

La Couche presents 'Labdanum' similar to 'Fille' Pine - a merciless display of all its resinous qualities that are only found in the hottest climates. Anyone who has ever experienced cistroses 'in the flesh' will quickly be reminded. For all its resinousness and the mention of 'Fille', La Couche du Diable is not a sweet scent. The opening is even downright sour and reminds me how bergamot can be used to some extent - for example in Comme des Garçons 'Tar' or in Helmut Lang's 'Cuiron'. In 'La Couche', however, this acidity, which takes some getting used to, is intensified and shifted into a more tasteful field, more vitamin C on the tongue than something citrusy in the nose. Once you get through this phase, in which I suspect a hint of something immortelle (an ingredient often used, though not officially, by Lutens lately), the fragrance develops into one of the most beautiful Labdanum drydowns I know: spices, even more resinous, the aforementioned dry fruits; a certain similarity to Comme des Garçons SKAI shimmers through, with 'La Couche' looking more distorted and deeply layered. All in all, a very great, idiosyncratic perfume that has what it takes to be just as unique and extraordinary in a few years as some of the intense 'lutens of yesteryear'...

4 Replies
9.5
Scent
9
Longevity
8
Sillage
9
Bottle
JoHannes
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JoHannes
JoHannes
Top Review    39  
Marrakech
To write a comment on/about a fragrance that is so incredibly touching and so incredibly fascinating and appealing to me is a challenge at first. But it is this fascination that makes it easy for me to put this scent, which is so touching for me, into words and pictures
La Couche du Diable is for me a glowing, crisp, resinous desert scent. A Moroccan desert scent. A desert scent from [my city of longing] Marrakech.

[I travel very little in private for various reasons. One reason is that I don't go away to go away, but to go where I am going, where my innermost being is drawn to. And I save that until I'm really ready. Marrakech is such a destination. I know that in Marrakech I would almost go mad with happiness and all the impressions. And I would like to enjoy that in my thoughts a little bit more.]

Marrakech. The city of smells, the city of spice merchants, tanners, fabric dyers. And the city of the aesthete - from Yves Saint Laurent to André Heller, from Camus to Tahir Shah (book tip: The Happiest Person in the World: My Journey to the Storytellers of Morocco), from Elias Canetti to: Serge Lutens.

In an older interview with DIE ZEIT in the Lifestyle section [https://www.zeit.de/lebensart/2012-12/serge-lutens-parfum-interview], Serge Lutens talks about his fragrance creations, and his inspirations, including Marrakech. An interesting and nice to read interview.

But back to La Couche du Diable. Describing him is both simple and difficult. I happened to have this fragrance in my hand at the end of a long and intensive test marathon at the last Munich perfume meeting. Before that, I had swayed between 2 fragrances (with my beloved scents of ginger and cardamom). And then, somehow by chance, after sniffing the spray head, I sprayed La Couche du Diable on myself. And I was immediately in another world:

An oriental spice market. It's hot, the air is flirting. A very gentle breeze of curry, glistening resin, a burning cistus bush at the edge of the desert. The road is glowing [when I go very close to my skin with my nose, I perceive a fine, rubbery note]. A touch of candied fruit. Something cinnamon-like. A colourful bustle. All light and very spicy. And: in the background an earthy oud note.

La Couche du Diable becomes softer, softer, rounder with the hours. The cistus remains light and resinous, the oud gives the earthy base on which everything rests. The sun sets, the bustle subsides, the air cools down. But it remains very dry. It's evening in the desert.

All these impressions coincide with my pictures and dreams of Marrakech. It's as if Serge Lutens had known these paintings. This is so very fascinating and touching for me.

For me, La Couche du Diable is a work of art that is round and closed/closed in itself. For me, a perfect trick.

Serge Lutens also said something about this in the ZEIT interview:

ZEIT ONLINE: You lack the art of the present day ?

Lutens: Heads are missing! Men and women. There are too many artificial figures that fill functions. And a perfume that is only the result of technical work may be well made by hand, but it is not art. And if we want to talk about art in perfume, it must really belong to a soul. This art has to come from the body and cannot just be the product of the essences on the table.
18 Replies
8
Scent
7
Longevity
7
Sillage
8
Bottle
Pepdal

228 Reviews
Pepdal
Pepdal
   0  
The Devil's Napkin
One of, if not the latest releases from Serge Lutens/Christopher Sheldrake. La Couche du Diable titillates with the name, but does it deliver with the contents in the bottle? I hope you enjoy my video review and find something useful. Thank you.


Marquise27
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Marquise27
Marquise27
Top Review    12  
But Teufel-ja- becomes the little devil
I am happy to write the first comment. I spray only once and then the following picture appears - it is summer and very warm and the road has just been renewed with fresh tar. The warmth and the tar smell take my breath away. Very strong and intense smell. I catch myself wiping my sprayed arm on my pants. That's definitely too much for me! I think here an overdose of incense and oud has been boiled up, a smell like from hell (I got the sentence from the fairy tale - the devil with the three golden hairs). Even after a thorough wash, the "devil's stuff" still sticks to me, so an extremely good durability, over 10 hours of full presence. This spicy and light spicy perfume has no, not even the slightest hint of something gentle. I try to forget him even if a breath rises to me every now and then. If the hell smells like that then I will only be a very good female, promised.
After a good 3 hours this intense fragrance becomes really round and pleasant. I perceive a trace of freshness and the incense has such a thrill towards floral? Iris or echoes of rose? This devil is also a seducer. Yes, at the end of the day there's more of a little devil with a mischievous smile. For me it is clearly a men's fragrance, striking, dominant, with enormous self-confidence, which is aware of its effect and uses it without consideration. But in the arms of the angel who belongs to him he is also a little devil who only ignites the fire of love. So be it ..... a fragrance for lovers of very unusual blends
8 Replies
6.5
Scent
6
Longevity
6
Sillage
8
Bottle
MiaSma

6 Reviews
MiaSma
MiaSma
   1  
first impression
(this is my first split ever so i was quite excited to receive and try this perfume.on top of that, i've read the reviews and articles in circulating its release.lastly this house to me its more than a house its a cult, the cult of Serge)

Upon initial spray, on the blotter, i am hit by a tarry/ synthetic oud accord that is irritating my olfactory receptors immensely. thankfully almost immediately that accord trail transforms into something very familiar, but elusive enough so that i cannot recognize it. 2 hours later it smells like dry coca-cola residue at the bottom of glass(to me that is a whirlpool of : myrrh, ylang-ylang + cacao butter +marzipan). 4 hours later (6 after first spray) it is very linear, as it smells almost the same but with less vigor...

Upon initial application, on skin, i got the same almost uncomfortable sensory attack, that i get from the dry-cleaners vents(if that makes sense)....again this dissipates almost instantly (hallelujah!!) and the familiar elusive accord appears, only this time i understand what i am presented with...it's an AMBRE SULTAN concentrate that shines bright into its demise a couple of hours later.along its AMBER SULTAN life i can sense a strong myrrh tincture/ cistus concrete with that coca-cola apozem trail and musks. 2 hours later(4 after application on skin) i can only detect emotions, not actual notes fruity, wet soil, lukewarm (/NOT HOT). after that its fire is out.

My thoughts about this balsamic warm ambery dense elixir are mostly positive, as i did enjoy this perfume and will wear it again definitely.Unfortunately, i have to say that it didn't live up to my expectations(to be honest as i said in the beginning marketing and anticipation of novelties may, eventually, have an inversely proportional effect). The perfume itself is a good offer, but nothing new(and i was expecting ground-breaking, reminiscent of Serge old powerhouses). On top of that it is very linear, which i do not mind at all (coming to thing about it i personally prefer concoctions that don't evolve much :-/ :-D). But i find the lack of longevity a sin, not a pity, but a sin on the houses behalf.With these ingredients (i am referring to the resins and musks and balsams) know for their fixative properties i don't understand/ accept why it is completely gone after 4-4,5 hours....It's not like we are talking about light and elusive perfumes of the likes of Nuit de Cellophane , Daim Blond . This is unacceptable for me and hence i wont be purchasing a full bottle.I hope they re-focus on their amazing, historical brand and provide in the future something that will transfix us again. ;-)

cult member 666

PS: it just hit me that the name of the perfume might not be very appropriate and due to its AMBRE SULTAN component i've come up with : Myrrh Amir/ Emir :-D:-P

Statements

Carlitos01Carlitos01 2 years ago
8.5
Scent
8
Longevity
8
Sillage
8
Bottle
A different smoky oud scent with a fruity/floral accord, and a bit leathery and sweet. Different but loveable! I must get one bottle :-)
FranknSenseFranknSense 2 years ago
9
Scent
8
Longevity
8
Sillage
9
Bottle
Oud & Fruit! I am a bit bored of the constant oud-rose combo. Serge Lutens created this interesting oud-apricot scent for my oud happyness.
1 Reply

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