(this is my first split ever so i was quite excited to receive and try this perfume.on top of that, i've read the reviews and articles in circulating its release.lastly this house to me its more than a house its a cult, the cult of Serge)
Upon initial spray, on the blotter, i am hit by a tarry/ synthetic oud accord that is irritating my olfactory receptors immensely. thankfully almost immediately that accord trail transforms into something very familiar, but elusive enough so that i cannot recognize it. 2 hours later it smells like dry coca-cola residue at the bottom of glass(to me that is a whirlpool of : myrrh, ylang-ylang + cacao butter +marzipan). 4 hours later (6 after first spray) it is very linear, as it smells almost the same but with less vigor...
Upon initial application, on skin, i got the same almost uncomfortable sensory attack, that i get from the dry-cleaners vents(if that makes sense)....again this dissipates almost instantly (hallelujah!!) and the familiar elusive accord appears, only this time i understand what i am presented with...it's an AMBRE SULTAN concentrate that shines bright into its demise a couple of hours later.along its AMBER SULTAN life i can sense a strong myrrh tincture/ cistus concrete with that coca-cola apozem trail and musks. 2 hours later(4 after application on skin) i can only detect emotions, not actual notes fruity, wet soil, lukewarm (/NOT HOT). after that its fire is out.
My thoughts about this balsamic warm ambery dense elixir are mostly positive, as i did enjoy this perfume and will wear it again definitely.Unfortunately, i have to say that it didn't live up to my expectations(to be honest as i said in the beginning marketing and anticipation of novelties may, eventually, have an inversely proportional effect). The perfume itself is a good offer, but nothing new(and i was expecting ground-breaking, reminiscent of Serge old powerhouses). On top of that it is very linear, which i do not mind at all (coming to thing about it i personally prefer concoctions that don't evolve much :-/ :-D). But i find the lack of longevity a sin, not a pity, but a sin on the houses behalf.With these ingredients (i am referring to the resins and musks and balsams) know for their fixative properties i don't understand/ accept why it is completely gone after 4-4,5 hours....It's not like we are talking about light and elusive perfumes of the likes of Nuit de Cellophane , Daim Blond . This is unacceptable for me and hence i wont be purchasing a full bottle.I hope they re-focus on their amazing, historical brand and provide in the future something that will transfix us again. ;-)
cult member 666
PS: it just hit me that the name of the perfume might not be very appropriate and due to its AMBRE SULTAN component i've come up with : Myrrh Amir/ Emir :-D:-P