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Like many others of my age, as a young man I was forced to spend a year of my life in the biggest real satire of our country: the Bundeswehr. Even for "head-operators" (I was a tactile radio operator) in the Navy, this included a certain amount of dilly-dallying in olive-green gear. It culminated in the so-called "36-hour exercise". In the morning I left, in the evening I went back the next day.
I think everyone already has a pretty good idea of what I'm getting at. After all, what can you expect from a fragrance that claims to contain practically everything that stinks like beast? Well, it's not quite that simple
Sure, there is a lot of stench: In front there is ambergris plus something unwashed and a corner full of cat piss. A layer of liquid honey doesn't help, because it pulls out all the stops in this respect. In this respect there is - as already diagnosed - indeed a kind of kinship to Kurkdjian's Absolue pur le Soir, but today things are going far, far stingier, because even the smell of honey is wallowing in the dirt and not just a stick of water in the corner. MFK simply has a bit more composure and the Absolue may well evoke associations of a Waldorf market at Christmas
My problem with luting is still not to the point, of course, because even the progress is by no means unround in the sense of 'illogical' - a development from animalism towards spice in the course of the morning. In the afternoon the spice note even gets something metallic. Animalism now plays second fiddle and divides into vanilla ambergris on the one hand and (probably) labdanum stink on the other.
But despite this shift in emphasis, the scent remains very engaging and in a way that bothers me. Already towards the end of the first hour, a greasy basic mood clung to me, as it were. I certainly don't like this kind of thing with unwashed, dirty clothes. The Lutens' uncompromising claim to ownership reminds me of my two E99-EsAns-Tests (Ambra Andalus, Green Tobacco), whereby the latter, it should be emphasized, didn't look nearly as dirty as today's candidate.
With fragrances like ambergris - truly a stinker! - i'm better with scents like ambergris. It's more like a visit to a pub from before 2008, when you walked out the door and knew that a walk in the fresh air back home is good. At Muscs Koublaï Khän, on the other hand, I come from somewhere else, feel dirty and white myself, the shower is far away. The fact that the scent doesn't affect the environment in such a bad way doesn't help me either.
And consequently I am back on the 36-hour exercise. Showering? Where? I was even lucky, because I didn't have to take part in the more sweaty rubbish because of a pulled muscle. And yet I still felt a bit dirty. A greasy, little, tired sailor, light years away from the stinking (possibly) grandezza of a Mongolian ruler.
Conclusion: I packed too much into it. I'll pass
I would like to thank 0815abc for the sample.