Muscs Koublaï Khän 1998

Muscs Koublaï Khän by Serge Lutens
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7.6 / 10256 Ratings
Muscs Koublaï Khän is a popular perfume by Serge Lutens for women and men and was released in 1998. The scent is animal-spicy. The longevity is above-average. It is still available to purchase. Pronunciation
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Fragrance Notes

AmbergrisAmbergris AmbretteAmbrette CastoreumCastoreum BeeswaxBeeswax Costus rootCostus root CarawayCaraway LabdanumLabdanum MuskMusk PatchouliPatchouli RoseRose VanillaVanilla CivetCivet

Ratings

Scent

7.6256 Ratings

Longevity

8.5196 Ratings

Sillage

6.9171 Ratings

Bottle

8.3165 Ratings

Value for money

6.924 Ratings
Submitted by Kankuro, last update on 01.09.2022.
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Reviews

8 in-depth fragrance descriptions
7
Bottle
8
Sillage
8
Longevity
6
Scent
Meggi
Translated Show original Show translation
Meggi
Meggi
Top Review    29  
36-hour exercise
Like many others of my age, as a young man I was forced to spend a year of my life in the biggest real satire of our country: the Bundeswehr. Even for "head-operators" (I was a tactile radio operator) in the Navy, this included a certain amount of dilly-dallying in olive-green gear. It culminated in the so-called "36-hour exercise". In the morning I left, in the evening I went back the next day.

I think everyone already has a pretty good idea of what I'm getting at. After all, what can you expect from a fragrance that claims to contain practically everything that stinks like beast? Well, it's not quite that simple
Sure, there is a lot of stench: In front there is ambergris plus something unwashed and a corner full of cat piss. A layer of liquid honey doesn't help, because it pulls out all the stops in this respect. In this respect there is - as already diagnosed - indeed a kind of kinship to Kurkdjian's Absolue pur le Soir, but today things are going far, far stingier, because even the smell of honey is wallowing in the dirt and not just a stick of water in the corner. MFK simply has a bit more composure and the Absolue may well evoke associations of a Waldorf market at Christmas
My problem with luting is still not to the point, of course, because even the progress is by no means unround in the sense of 'illogical' - a development from animalism towards spice in the course of the morning. In the afternoon the spice note even gets something metallic. Animalism now plays second fiddle and divides into vanilla ambergris on the one hand and (probably) labdanum stink on the other.

But despite this shift in emphasis, the scent remains very engaging and in a way that bothers me. Already towards the end of the first hour, a greasy basic mood clung to me, as it were. I certainly don't like this kind of thing with unwashed, dirty clothes. The Lutens' uncompromising claim to ownership reminds me of my two E99-EsAns-Tests (Ambra Andalus, Green Tobacco), whereby the latter, it should be emphasized, didn't look nearly as dirty as today's candidate.

With fragrances like ambergris - truly a stinker! - i'm better with scents like ambergris. It's more like a visit to a pub from before 2008, when you walked out the door and knew that a walk in the fresh air back home is good. At Muscs Koublaï Khän, on the other hand, I come from somewhere else, feel dirty and white myself, the shower is far away. The fact that the scent doesn't affect the environment in such a bad way doesn't help me either.

And consequently I am back on the 36-hour exercise. Showering? Where? I was even lucky, because I didn't have to take part in the more sweaty rubbish because of a pulled muscle. And yet I still felt a bit dirty. A greasy, little, tired sailor, light years away from the stinking (possibly) grandezza of a Mongolian ruler.

Conclusion: I packed too much into it. I'll pass
I would like to thank 0815abc for the sample.
23 Replies
7
Sillage
7
Longevity
9
Scent
Manogi
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Manogi
Manogi
Very helpful Review    8  
The Khan asks for a dance
Kublai Khan was the grandson of the infamous Mongol ruler Genghis Khan and ruled his empire for 34 years. A fragrance named after him raises clichés and expectations. Many will associate him with savagery. And yes, he is a bit wild.

When I bought a bottling of "Peau de Bête" from @Tanninaz, she also thankfully left me a small sample of "Muscs Koublaï Khän". I was curious. Because the list of notes let expect concentrated animalism. So exactly my taste.

Quite as animalistic as the notes suggest, it was then but not. The start I feel even rather sweetish-fresh. In de sweet notes dominates for me especially the labdanum, which I smell very gladly.

Admittedly, after a short time the Animalik sets in. And indeed, the castoreum is the dominant note here. But I also clearly perceive the caraway. Amber and musk complement the interplay in the background very nicely.

The animalism, however, does not seem imposed. It does not slay one. It fits rather quite prima in the sweetish notes. This makes the fragrance a bit wicked, but still very wearable at the same time. There are definitely far more animalic fragrances than this, like my signature scent "Ambilux" by Marlou.

I find "Muscs Koublaï Khän" decidedly successful. There is something noble about the fragrance that does justice to a Khan. I will probably have to look around for a larger bottling.
6 Replies
10
Bottle
5
Sillage
7.5
Longevity
9
Scent
MemoryOScent

37 Reviews
MemoryOScent
MemoryOScent
Top Review    8  
don't fear the reaper
Musks can be generally divided in the pissy ones and the clean white ones. Most of them have a sweetness to make the note more accessible. MKK is dry! And multifaceted. Like a crystal. Every time I wear it I pick up something different. It’s like a Pandora’s box. If you read this and think “Serge Lutens stewed fruit cake and spice rack” you couldn’t be furthest from the truth. It opens with tangy top note which reminds me of bigarrade or some other bitter citrus. But what is amazing is the texture. I don’t know how Sheldrake does this for Lutens but so many of his creations are remarkably textured. Smelling the opening is as intense as running my fingers over fur. It is soft but textured and incredibly sensual. It has the same dusty feel of Cuir Mauresque or Feminité du Bois. And then there is another admirable aspect. Have you ever tasted butterscotch candy where there is an intense saltiness hidden inside the sweetness of the candy? This is how Muscs Koublai Khan feels! Like the pinch of salt every desert needs to lift it to new levels of pleasure. There is a hint of loukoum rose in there, especially in the opening. It is the smell of dried rosebuds sold in spice shops to be used in spice mixes: dry and dusty. And then there is this lovely almost burnt sugar note that I have also found in L’Air de Rien. What does all this add up to? The perfect masculine white musk. My reference musk. You see, musk can be cheesy… Too sweet, too floral, too grandpa reminiscent. Muscs Koublai Khan is serious, demure, distant musk. It reminds me of a white musk scent but where white musk scents smell sweet and girly this one is regal and introverted.

Where’s the dreaded dirty shit then? I don’t know… It is supposed to have civet and castoreum. I haven’t smelled these on their own but I think I know at least what civet smells like. I have smelled the poopy note in quite a few perfumes. Is it in here? Sincerely I cannot smell it! I do smell the cotton candy note that characterizes L’Air de Rien, a truly weird musk. And I do smell a note that I remember from Kouros: the crispy roast lamb note that makes it such a controversial fragrance. But MKK keeps this note on a very tight leash and it wears very close to the skin. Like many Serge Lutens perfumes after the first few minutes it feels like a perfume that consists entirely of basenotes. And like most of its siblings it wears close to the skin, at least to my skin. In fact MKK is the ultimate fragrance for layering with anything else to add a deep musky undercurrent. I have layered it with Sarrasins and I got an incredible thick, indolic jasmine, very close to A la Nuit.

I guess what the take-home message for this is “do not be afraid of the alleged animalic beast”. If you are looking for a serious, non-sweet, masculine white musk do give this a try. I have been wearing it for about two months and people have even complimented me on this. I know it has the reputation of a huge stinker and Koublai Khan was the man who conquered China and made it the largest empire ever. But there is also this other side in him. The ambitious conqueror who built a fleet of 3500 river boats and set out to conquer Japan. Well guess what: they all sunk. Somehow this is the side of Koublai Khan that I find most interesting: the seed of destruction inside the genius. And Muscs Koublai Khan is not the perfume of a conqueror. It is the delicate, introverted smell of a solitary man.
4 Replies
5
Bottle
7.5
Sillage
7.5
Longevity
10
Scent
MasterLi

375 Reviews
MasterLi
MasterLi
Very helpful Review    8  
The "Real" Musc Ravageur!
This is why I love Serge Lutens...

Muscs Koublai Khan is a wonderfully animalic, raw but also a very soft, gorgeous scent. I really love this one, for a lot of reasons. I think mainly because I love to be challenged and I love the smell of classic perfume, like Jicky and Shalimar. I love the way those earlier perfumes were both soft and dirty and sensual all at the same time. Muscs Koublai Khan and Musc Ravageur remind me of that.

I actually think that this one is much more authentic and raw than Musc Ravageur. I really get the honey and civet here. What Muscs Koublai Khan is all about, is Honey and Civet and Rose and spices. In the beginning I get the florals and Musk side by side. It dries down to a beautiful Amber and Patchouli base. I don't get the Cumin but I do get the Ambrette seed and Caraway seed. Basically I would describe this as a spicy Rose fragrance. Nothing sweaty or "fecal" about it (as others have mentioned). This reminds me of sexy warm skin. Warm with perfume and a little hint of sweat, but not really too dirty. As others have said, it smells "intimate" and more than a little sexual. I think it's fantastic.

I would say a little application goes a long way. This is actually a fantastic dirty and spicy Rose fragrance, and very sexy to wear. I think anyone could wear this, male or female, and it would go well with fine clothes when you are all dressed up. It's powerful but soft, and sexy and seductive. This is why I love Serge Lutens, it makes me feel that real perfume is still being made even today. Be patient with this one, and perhaps you will see the beauty inside the beast. Beauty and sensuality, just pure joy.
0 Replies
10
Scent
ScentFan

331 Reviews
ScentFan
ScentFan
Helpful Review    3  
Magnificent Marauder
Expanding my sniff fest comments into a review. Wow, wow, wow! This is ambergris and castoreum right away, rocking all sorts of aggressively musky, bitter and beautiful notes: musk, civet, ambrette, costus, caraway, and for sheer loveliness labdanum, rose and vanilla. Add patchouli and beeswax and this may be the best animalic I’ve ever smelled. It's sexy as heck. It transfixed hubby, too. Comparing it to my reigning sex bomb perf: Narcisso Rodriquez For Her. Oh, yes, that’s gorgeous too. SL's is more raw, more blatant, muskier. I adore it. Did the Mongol women ride those stocky horses? [Still enthralled that American Pharaoh (er, unfortunately that's Pharoah) won the Triple Crown.] Of course they must have, but who cares? If the Mongol horde’s emperor was good enough for Marco Polo and Serge, he’s good enough for me. Actually, more than good. This perfume is a triumph of compelling sensuality. It's the horses, the saddles, the tents and rugs, a stew cooked over an open fire--mixing with alpine and tundra plants and flowers that turn the scent to perfume. I imagine a mongol bridal tent. At first I thought Narcisso may reek a bit louder and longer in comparison. Now I'm not sure. No prob, in any case. I’ll just pour the SL on.
0 Replies
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Statements

2 short views on the fragrance
Jbl775Jbl775 5 months ago
10
Bottle
7
Sillage
8
Longevity
8.5
Scent
A little animalic in the background, but this is mostly about the powdery amber and musk. Sexy yes, dirty no. Try it on your own please!
0 Replies
BoBoChampBoBoChamp 2 years ago
7
Sillage
7
Longevity
8.5
Scent
After a pungent soapy/spicy opening, this challenging, yet warm oriental-animalic Fall fragrance, settles to a gentle leathery-resinous base
0 Replies

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