Tubéreuse criminelle (1998)

Tubéreuse criminelle by Serge Lutens
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Tubéreuse criminelle is a perfume by Serge Lutens for women and men and was released in 1998. The scent is floral-spicy. The longevity is above-average. It is still in production.

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Fragrance Notes

Clove, Hyacinth, Jasmine, Musk, Nutmeg, Orange blossom, Styrax, Tuberose, Vanilla

Ratings

Scent

7.5 (174 Ratings)

Longevity

8.6 (133 Ratings)

Sillage

7.7 (127 Ratings)

Bottle

8.0 (121 Ratings)
Submitted by Kankuro, last update on 22.05.2019
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Reviews

8.0 10.0 10.0 10.0/10
Mrsg37

31 Reviews
Mrsg37
Mrsg37
Helpful Review    2
Bombastic wintergreen/ tuberose
Bombastic wintergreen, menthol, bubblegummy opening, which I personally adore! It was just what I was looking for. It settles into the most beautiful, creamy tuberose with an undercurrent of the wintergreen vibe, GLORIOUS!
8.0/10
Flavorite

240 Reviews
Flavorite
Flavorite
Helpful Review    7
You've Been Struck by a Smoothe Criminal!
This is just as others have described, so I won't belabor the crazy roller coaster ride- it must be experienced. BenGay/Menthol burns the nose hairs at first whiff and I almost start to dry heave when I remembered the Obe-Wan voice in my head saying "Use the force...step away from the sample for about 10 minutes then return to it." Sure enough it was opening up on the paper enough so that when I handed the tester to my DH he said "Wow! that smells fantastic!" so then I decided this was the one and only sample I would test on today's smell adventure. Indeed we had the same macabre dance for about 10 minutes on my wrist...I begin to pray to several different deities that by the time we got to the Indian restaurant to meet our friends I wouldn't be wreaking of menthol-liniment and they wouldn't be whispering how I have aged so much in the last year, 'it really is tragic how's she has let herself go...' In the next 30 minutes I had a full bi-polar olfactory experience raging from mania- fear and sheer panic to deep regret to hopeful to curious appreciation settling into profound admiration and joy at the end over the gorgeous full sexy tuberose in peaceful, meditative pond of vanilla and a single drop of warm clove essence. The sillage of one generous spray also took a similarly ragged path on my nerves from deafening to just slightly over the top monster sillage to the perfect after thought and now after 7 hours is a nothing more than the 'careless whisper of a good friend'. I am almost wondering if I need to talk to a professional after this experience. I've been I put this on my list of top ten Tuberose fragrances every Perfumista must try along with Carnal Flower, Fracas, Vamp A NY. Is this something I could wear on a regular basis? There's not enough Prozac in the world!
9.0/10
Kxnaiades

50 Reviews
Kxnaiades
Kxnaiades
Helpful Review    7
Vicks et tuberose
This made me smile. It's Vicks vapour rub with tuberose and I love it. It smells much much better on skin than on paper so don't judge it on paper alone. Actually don't judge it at all on the opening. The opening is a little testy for those who are not forewarned, like I said it smells like Vicks or menthol(cloves, nutmeg and mint with some sweetness). The tuberose shows up when the opening notes calm down and they all get along very well together! I would never have thought of mixing a narcotic white flower with mint but hats off to Serge Lutens once again for another quirky and lovable twist on a familiar theme. Sillage is about an arm's length on me and the scent stayed with me throughout my day, sending up lovely wafts every now and then as I moved around. My jaded nose really loves wearing this and I'm happy to own a bottle of this interesting minx.
1 Replies
7.0 9.0 9.0 8.0/10
Gold

468 Reviews
Gold
Gold
3
Tubéreuse brutale
This stuff is brutal, especially in the beginning. The start is aggressive, disturbing, unpleasant. Interestingly enough, the heart of the fragrance is not putrid at all, on the contrary. It has rare poetic qualities and is utterly beautiful. Obviously a fascinating structure, made of first rate natural ingredients - and very originial. The strongest tuberose I know. So much better than most of the horrible chemical reproductions of the flower. Yet, I would not purchase it - because of the weird start, which is too morbid for me. My daughter said the topnotes made her puke (drastic language, but I guess Serge wouldn't mind).
5.0 5.0 8.0/10
Coutureguru

223 Reviews
Coutureguru
Coutureguru
4
Totally worth the wait ...
Four years ago I developed an immense urge to sample Fracas, the yardstick by which all other Tuberose fragrances seem to be measured. Some internet investigation revealed the existence of a few modern interpretations of this note, this being one of them.

No matter how hard I tried, I couldn't even manage to procure a sample of Tubéreuse Criminelle ... it was shrouded in the mystery and exclusivity of the 'bell jar' line and only available at the boutique in Paris. I eventually gave up and consoled myself with pursuing other Tuberose avenues until I heard a few months ago that it had finally become available in the export line and would soon be arriving at my local niche perfumery. I finally had the chance to try and buy two days ago ...

To be quite honest, when a fragrance is as hyped up as this one I am generally let down when I get to smell it. Not exactly a disappointment, I do find Tubéreuse Criminelle to be less than what I was expecting, but also my very first Lutens acquisition ... which is quite groundbreaking, at least for me. I have bemoaned the fact that many from this house are reminiscent of 'unwashed armpit', containing too much cumin and other odiferous materials that have done little to enchant me. My insistence on finding a Lutens to add to my collection has changed that to a certain extent, as I am now also after adding Miel de Bois and a la Nuit to my overflowing shelves :).
Tubéreuse Criminelle's mentholated opening blast can be a little eye-watering ... but it is absolutely unique! Fresh and bracing, it had me salivating for the emergence of my all time favorite note in perfumery. When the Tuberose does arrive, she is heralded by her compatriots in arms ... a gorgeous Orange Blossom and a deep Jasmine! In actual fact, I was quite unprepared for the rather heavy indoles almost overwhelmingly apparent here. Just short of 'poopy' smelling I was delighted by this unexpected turn of events. Hints of spice lift and brighten a Tuberose that seems to be in the fullness of her lifecycle ... there is a weightiness here that is very appealing ... a creamy, dense feeling ... as if a lei of these flowers had been placed around one's neck. The eventual Musk/Vanilla exit holds close to the skin and perpetuates the lush, creamy aspect of this fragrance.
A huge disappointment for me is that on skin alone, I only get about 4 hours of longevity from this creation. I took the advice of some very learned friends here on Parfumo and applied it to my clothes yesterday too. This extended the lifespan a further 3 hours or so, but when I wear something like Carnal Flower, just the fragrant residue of my shirts being in contact with my body radiates until they are washed. I have to put my shirt from yesterday to my nose to catch any traces of Tubéreuse Criminelle.

Tubéreuse Criminelle, for me at least, is not the powerhouse that some experience. It is, however, a beautifully unique take on Tuberose ... and one that I am thrilled to finally own!!

Update 6/12/12:

I wore this a few nights ago on the tropical island I periodically visit for work ... Tubereuse Criminelle BLOSSSOMS in the hot and humid weather! I am enjoying this one more and more!!
2 Replies
7.5 5.0 7.5 7.0/10
Missk

1165 Reviews
Missk
Missk
3
Crazy interpretation of tuberose
Tubereuse Criminelle is my cup of tea. This is tuberose with a twist, so far removed from the pretty, white fragrant blooms we're used to. It reminds me of another daring Serge Lutens composition, Sarrasins, which is an interesting, somewhat morbid approach towards jasmine.

This fragrance can be very green at first, almost vegetal. Tuberose is not instantly noticeable amongst the damp greeness, but the more the scent settles, the more apparent the traditional tuberose accord becomes.

There is a hint of ointment every now and then, but it's not bothersome to me like it is for some people. Some may hint that it smells like petrol. I personally think it's an oily accord, nothing too crude, just a little on the dirty side of things, making the composition more complex.

I swear I can smell a subtle hint of smooth, black leather in the heart of Tubereuse Criminelle, where the composition takes a turn of flowers and moist earth.

The drydown smells quite chemical and excitingly strange to my nose. Tubereuse Criminelle is daring, occasionally offensive, yet somehow a masterpiece. I appreciate scents of this nature, especially when they choose not to conform to traditional perfumery.

Unfortunately I didn't find Tubereuse Criminelle to be all that strong in terms of sillage. Lasting yes, but not nearly as bold as I expected it to be. I guess I thought Tubereuse Criminelle would be a richer and louder fragrance than what it was.
1 Replies
5.0 5.0 8.0/10
Bassavina

25 Reviews
Bassavina
Bassavina
Helpful Review    2
What the?!
The start is pure Pepto-Bismol. Seriously, mentholated, wintergreeny (must be methyl salicylate), and medicinal, it takes a good 15 minutes before I sniff my wrist voluntarily. Is what follows worth that being sucker punched up front with a whole load of what-the-hell? Yes, albeit an odd introduction on the order of Petruchio meets Kate, leaving you to wonder just who was tamed after all?

But, oh, that after all. Buttered tropical flowers. To me this phase is a dead ringer for Tuvaché Jungle Gardenia, so I'll put up with that perverse start to get there, relieved to find what I want for once in a fragrance still in production.
7.5 7.5 10.0 9.0/10
Flaconneur

49 Reviews
Flaconneur
Flaconneur
Greatly helpful Review    7
TUBÉREUSE CRIMINELLE by Serge Lutens
Tubéreuse Criminelle is a beautiful creamy white tuberose fragrance with tons of personality, spun by none other than Serge Lutens and perfumer Christopher Sheldrake. This fragrance is an interesting twist on the classic tuberose genre, so be prepared.

The opening is a strange, astringent wintergreen and camphor attack with whiffs of fragrant eucalyptus. This opening scent combination might have you checking for a gasoline spill, but don't worry. No fuel spills here. Over a short period of time, the opening metamorphoses as the tuberose fights its may up through the thick intense layers of green aromatics. You'll find a beautiful parade of florals, like jasmine, orange blossom and hyacinth following close behind. From the first time it appears, the tuberose ages and matures into an amazing floral extravaganza. The wintergreen and camphor are now but a whisper, but still standing in the wings just as a reminder. The tuberose is dusted with the scent of leather and just a bit of spice and smoke. The rich base of musk and vanilla give the florals a velvety and luxurious feeling.

Tubéreuse Criminelle is not your typical tuberose fragrance, nor is Serge Lutens you typical perfumer. This combination of wintergreen with the polar opposites of waxy intense florals and just a touch of smoke, is a memorable and exotic combination. This a perfect tuberose fragrance for men because of its aromatic green structure combined with the dry-down combination of leather and spice notes. If you looking for something completely different from a tuberose fragrances, Tubéreuse Criminelle might be it?

Statements

Alex1984 24 months ago
Tuberose with nails, frozen inside an ice cube. In the heat, it melts on your chest, sharp metal nails give you goosebumps. Menthol ecstasy.+3
9.0
7.0
7.0
10.0
Hermesh 4 years ago
A characterful and Untamed tuberose (and some jasmine). Wild and passionate!+1
7.5
7.5
10.0
8.0
OPomone 4 years ago
A tuberose in 3D widescreen and hi-fi 7.1 surround sound. Impressive!+4
10.0
10.0
9.5

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