Tubéreuse criminelle 1998

Tubéreuse criminelle by Serge Lutens
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7.5 / 10205 Ratings
Tubéreuse criminelle is a perfume by Serge Lutens for women and men and was released in 1998. The scent is floral-spicy. The longevity is above-average. It is still available to purchase. Pronunciation
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Fragrance Notes

CloveClove HyacinthHyacinth JasmineJasmine MuskMusk NutmegNutmeg Orange blossomOrange blossom StyraxStyrax TuberoseTuberose VanillaVanilla

Ratings

Scent

7.5205 Ratings

Longevity

8.6158 Ratings

Sillage

7.8153 Ratings

Bottle

8.3145 Ratings

Value for money

7.318 Ratings
Submitted by Kankuro, last update on 06.06.2022.
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Reviews

9.5
Scent
8
Longevity
6
Sillage
10
Bottle
7
Pricing
Stinkypenny

33 Reviews
Stinkypenny
Stinkypenny
Helpful Review    8  
A gothic, leather clad, chain smoker's tuberose.
This opens up with the strongest hit of menthol i've ever experienced. It reminds me of early mornings, going downstairs to roll myself a method filtered cigarette. It's spring, and my neighbours floral and unkept garden is sending beautiful fresh, cooled by the morning breeze , wafts of tuberose and jasmine my way. There is the early morning smell of the past presence of animals in the garden, and possibly a small den of hedgehogs or mice nearby.

It's chilling, refreshing, and energising. It makes you want to chill out, be easy, but also has a restlessness that lies within it. Very similar to smoking while having a glass of wine with friends. The nicotine and tannin heavy alcohol dance around each other, in a dark sultry way in brightly lit, bone cold room.

This is beautiful and yet so unsettling. It makes me want to start smoking again, and grab my old leather jackets, skinny jeans and generally nonchalant yet always sharp sense of style. This is brooding. The wearer needs to have a certain presence and sense of self to pull this off for it to make sense.

Only downside is the sillage isn't great, which is odd as the fragrance is so fragrant, one would expect it to travel... but it doesn't. It's not necessarily a bad thing as I could imagine the scent upsetting some more fragile souls, and it could easily become cloying despite it's frostiness.

I would highly recommend everyone find the opportunity to experience this fragrance for themselves. It is not a safe blind buy in my view... although i did blind buy it. This is definitely a challenging and polarising scent. A fantastic creation from Sheldrake and Lutens.
1 Reply
Art

68 Reviews
Art
Art
   3  
Masterpiece Tuberose
Any Tuberose perfume can be quite criminal for me.;) But fortunately here it is a bold, enveloping and creamy whitefloral with gorgeous liqueur tuberose, spices, wax and wood. A bit tropical. The only criminal (yet cool!) things that my nose can randomly detect there, are the nuances of rubber, salt and leather. And yes, I can call it a masterpiece.
0 Replies
10
Scent
7.5
Longevity
7.5
Sillage
5
Bottle
10
Pricing
Cumulnimbus

109 Reviews
Cumulnimbus
Cumulnimbus
   0  
Diva tuberose
One of the most unique scents I've ever smelled. This Sheldrake's creation is intrepid and revolutionary and it would not fit everybody's taste.

A dramatic tuberose. An unusual trip. It requires an open mind, it is definitely an acquired taste reserved for real tuberose lovers and those who will give it a proper day testing. Like true divas, it claims for time and attention.

Once the demanding styrax opening which I love is over, you'll receive a marvelous tuberose, fresh deep and spicy.

Amongst the best tuberose perfumes ever made.
0 Replies
10
Scent
10
Longevity
10
Sillage
8
Bottle
Mrsg37

32 Reviews
Mrsg37
Mrsg37
Very helpful Review    2  
Bombastic wintergreen/ tuberose
Bombastic wintergreen, menthol, bubblegummy opening, which I personally adore! It was just what I was looking for. It settles into the most beautiful, creamy tuberose with an undercurrent of the wintergreen vibe, GLORIOUS!
0 Replies
8
Scent
Flavorite

240 Reviews
Flavorite
Flavorite
Helpful Review    7  
You've Been Struck by a Smoothe Criminal!
This is just as others have described, so I won't belabor the crazy roller coaster ride- it must be experienced. BenGay/Menthol burns the nose hairs at first whiff and I almost start to dry heave when I remembered the Obe-Wan voice in my head saying "Use the force...step away from the sample for about 10 minutes then return to it." Sure enough it was opening up on the paper enough so that when I handed the tester to my DH he said "Wow! that smells fantastic!" so then I decided this was the one and only sample I would test on today's smell adventure. Indeed we had the same macabre dance for about 10 minutes on my wrist...I begin to pray to several different deities that by the time we got to the Indian restaurant to meet our friends I wouldn't be wreaking of menthol-liniment and they wouldn't be whispering how I have aged so much in the last year, 'it really is tragic how's she has let herself go...' In the next 30 minutes I had a full bi-polar olfactory experience raging from mania- fear and sheer panic to deep regret to hopeful to curious appreciation settling into profound admiration and joy at the end over the gorgeous full sexy tuberose in peaceful, meditative pond of vanilla and a single drop of warm clove essence. The sillage of one generous spray also took a similarly ragged path on my nerves from deafening to just slightly over the top monster sillage to the perfect after thought and now after 7 hours is a nothing more than the 'careless whisper of a good friend'. I am almost wondering if I need to talk to a professional after this experience. I've been I put this on my list of top ten Tuberose fragrances every Perfumista must try along with Carnal Flower, Fracas, Vamp A NY. Is this something I could wear on a regular basis? There's not enough Prozac in the world!
0 Replies
9
Scent
Kxnaiades

50 Reviews
Kxnaiades
Kxnaiades
Helpful Review    7  
Vicks et tuberose
This made me smile. It's Vicks vapour rub with tuberose and I love it. It smells much much better on skin than on paper so don't judge it on paper alone. Actually don't judge it at all on the opening. The opening is a little testy for those who are not forewarned, like I said it smells like Vicks or menthol(cloves, nutmeg and mint with some sweetness). The tuberose shows up when the opening notes calm down and they all get along very well together! I would never have thought of mixing a narcotic white flower with mint but hats off to Serge Lutens once again for another quirky and lovable twist on a familiar theme. Sillage is about an arm's length on me and the scent stayed with me throughout my day, sending up lovely wafts every now and then as I moved around. My jaded nose really loves wearing this and I'm happy to own a bottle of this interesting minx.
1 Reply
8
Scent
9
Longevity
9
Sillage
7
Bottle
Gold

470 Reviews
Gold
Gold
   3  
Tubéreuse brutale
This stuff is brutal, especially in the beginning. The start is aggressive, disturbing, unpleasant. Interestingly enough, the heart of the fragrance is not putrid at all, on the contrary. It has rare poetic qualities and is utterly beautiful. Obviously a fascinating structure, made of first rate natural ingredients - and very originial. The strongest tuberose I know. So much better than most of the horrible chemical reproductions of the flower. Yet, I would not purchase it - because of the weird start, which is too morbid for me. My daughter said the topnotes made her puke (drastic language, but I guess Serge wouldn't mind).
0 Replies
8
Scent
5
Longevity
5
Sillage
Coutureguru

223 Reviews
Coutureguru
Coutureguru
   4  
Totally worth the wait ...
Four years ago I developed an immense urge to sample Fracas, the yardstick by which all other Tuberose fragrances seem to be measured. Some internet investigation revealed the existence of a few modern interpretations of this note, this being one of them.

No matter how hard I tried, I couldn't even manage to procure a sample of Tubéreuse Criminelle ... it was shrouded in the mystery and exclusivity of the 'bell jar' line and only available at the boutique in Paris. I eventually gave up and consoled myself with pursuing other Tuberose avenues until I heard a few months ago that it had finally become available in the export line and would soon be arriving at my local niche perfumery. I finally had the chance to try and buy two days ago ...

To be quite honest, when a fragrance is as hyped up as this one I am generally let down when I get to smell it. Not exactly a disappointment, I do find Tubéreuse Criminelle to be less than what I was expecting, but also my very first Lutens acquisition ... which is quite groundbreaking, at least for me. I have bemoaned the fact that many from this house are reminiscent of 'unwashed armpit', containing too much cumin and other odiferous materials that have done little to enchant me. My insistence on finding a Lutens to add to my collection has changed that to a certain extent, as I am now also after adding Miel de Bois and a la Nuit to my overflowing shelves :).
Tubéreuse Criminelle's mentholated opening blast can be a little eye-watering ... but it is absolutely unique! Fresh and bracing, it had me salivating for the emergence of my all time favorite note in perfumery. When the Tuberose does arrive, she is heralded by her compatriots in arms ... a gorgeous Orange Blossom and a deep Jasmine! In actual fact, I was quite unprepared for the rather heavy indoles almost overwhelmingly apparent here. Just short of 'poopy' smelling I was delighted by this unexpected turn of events. Hints of spice lift and brighten a Tuberose that seems to be in the fullness of her lifecycle ... there is a weightiness here that is very appealing ... a creamy, dense feeling ... as if a lei of these flowers had been placed around one's neck. The eventual Musk/Vanilla exit holds close to the skin and perpetuates the lush, creamy aspect of this fragrance.
A huge disappointment for me is that on skin alone, I only get about 4 hours of longevity from this creation. I took the advice of some very learned friends here on Parfumo and applied it to my clothes yesterday too. This extended the lifespan a further 3 hours or so, but when I wear something like Carnal Flower, just the fragrant residue of my shirts being in contact with my body radiates until they are washed. I have to put my shirt from yesterday to my nose to catch any traces of Tubéreuse Criminelle.

Tubéreuse Criminelle, for me at least, is not the powerhouse that some experience. It is, however, a beautifully unique take on Tuberose ... and one that I am thrilled to finally own!!

Update 6/12/12:

I wore this a few nights ago on the tropical island I periodically visit for work ... Tubereuse Criminelle BLOSSSOMS in the hot and humid weather! I am enjoying this one more and more!!
2 Replies
7
Scent
7.5
Longevity
5
Sillage
7.5
Bottle
Missk

1165 Reviews
Missk
Missk
   3  
Crazy interpretation of tuberose
Tubereuse Criminelle is my cup of tea. This is tuberose with a twist, so far removed from the pretty, white fragrant blooms we're used to. It reminds me of another daring Serge Lutens composition, Sarrasins, which is an interesting, somewhat morbid approach towards jasmine.

This fragrance can be very green at first, almost vegetal. Tuberose is not instantly noticeable amongst the damp greeness, but the more the scent settles, the more apparent the traditional tuberose accord becomes.

There is a hint of ointment every now and then, but it's not bothersome to me like it is for some people. Some may hint that it smells like petrol. I personally think it's an oily accord, nothing too crude, just a little on the dirty side of things, making the composition more complex.

I swear I can smell a subtle hint of smooth, black leather in the heart of Tubereuse Criminelle, where the composition takes a turn of flowers and moist earth.

The drydown smells quite chemical and excitingly strange to my nose. Tubereuse Criminelle is daring, occasionally offensive, yet somehow a masterpiece. I appreciate scents of this nature, especially when they choose not to conform to traditional perfumery.

Unfortunately I didn't find Tubereuse Criminelle to be all that strong in terms of sillage. Lasting yes, but not nearly as bold as I expected it to be. I guess I thought Tubereuse Criminelle would be a richer and louder fragrance than what it was.
1 Reply
8
Scent
5
Longevity
5
Sillage
Bassavina

25 Reviews
Bassavina
Bassavina
   2  
What the?!
The start is pure Pepto-Bismol. Seriously, mentholated, wintergreeny (must be methyl salicylate), and medicinal, it takes a good 15 minutes before I sniff my wrist voluntarily. Is what follows worth that being sucker punched up front with a whole load of what-the-hell? Yes, albeit an odd introduction on the order of Petruchio meets Kate, leaving you to wonder just who was tamed after all?

But, oh, that after all. Buttered tropical flowers. To me this phase is a dead ringer for Tuvaché Jungle Gardenia, so I'll put up with that perverse start to get there, relieved to find what I want for once in a fragrance still in production.
0 Replies
Show all reviews 11

Statements

BoBoChampBoBoChamp 1 year ago
8.5
Scent
8
Longevity
7
Sillage
A warm and creamy, gently spicy/leathery, oriental-floral Mid season fragrance, with a challenging, medicinal spicy-green opening. Unisex!
0 Replies
Alex1984Alex1984 5 years ago
10
Scent
7
Longevity
7
Sillage
9
Bottle
Tuberose with nails, frozen inside an ice cube. In the heat, it melts on your chest, sharp metal nails give you goosebumps. Menthol ecstasy.
0 Replies
HermeshHermesh 7 years ago
8
Scent
10
Longevity
7.5
Sillage
7.5
Bottle
A characterful and "untamed" tuberose (and some jasmine). Wild and passionate!
0 Replies
OPomoneOPomone 7 years ago
9.5
Scent
10
Longevity
10
Sillage
A tuberose in 3D widescreen and hi-fi 7.1 surround sound. Impressive!
0 Replies

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