Vétiver oriental 2004

Vétiver oriental by Serge Lutens
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Vétiver oriental is a popular perfume by Serge Lutens for women and men and was released in 2004. The scent is woody-spicy. The longevity is above-average. It is still available to purchase. Pronunciation
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Fragrance Notes

Amber, Underwood, Gaiac wood, Iris, Labdanum, Moss, Musk, Plant juice, Sandalwood, Chocolate, Vetiver

Ratings

Scent

8.0 | 211 Ratings

Longevity

8.0 | 169 Ratings

Sillage

6.7 | 167 Ratings

Bottle

7.9 | 154 Ratings
Submitted by Kankuro, last update on 19.03.2021.
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Reviews

9
Scent
8
Longevity
7
Sillage
8
Bottle
Intersport
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Intersport
Intersport
Very helpful Review    6  
Vétiver détourné
When I was sitting on one of these special metal chairs, the half chair, half abstracted lounge chair in front of the fountain in the Palais Royal in spring 2007, smelling like plotters on my handshake, I wondered: where is the vetiver - I didn't pay much attention to the scent any further, the vetiver note seemed simply too obscure to me. I had spent the year before with 'systematic' vetiver tests - my favourites so far, the usual suspects: Route Du Vétiver, Goutal's Vetiver Eau de Toilette, Etro but also Sycomore Eau de Toilette and Vétiver Extraordinaire - all with a very clear and direct vetiver note.

A few years later I wanted to know it again, because in the meantime some of these have been discontinued or formulated (Sycomore EDT -> EDP, Goutal Vetiver EDT -> EDC, Maitre into the 120 ml dilemma...) and the 00's seemed to me to be the "golden era", in which - perhaps starting from Vétiver Extraordinaire, which took up the hardcore releases of the 80s such as Route de Vétiver or Goutal's Vetiver - this profoundly classic ingredient was renegotiated; Vétiver Oriental was released extensively in 2002, its unique feature is that vetiver is hidden most of the time and constantly swings in and out of perception. Probably the best (and only?) indirect vetiver perfume. Almost as if all the other components were covered with a semi-transparent vetiver film, which allows for sufficient osmotic exchange but ultimately forms an oscillating vetiver filter that can never quite be grasped. Took me a while to understand it that way but once this happens, it's vetiver through and through.

The fragrance is also an interesting Luten's publication from a time when SL was increasingly focusing on softer individual components; Chêne or Borneo 1834 is in a certain proximity to Vétiver Oriental, the patchouli-cocoa & greens combination was heralded a few years later in L'Instant pour Homme EDP and Coromandel EDT, and it's not entirely without predecessors: every now and then I have to think of Maitre's Santal Noble.

Vétiver Oriental works best in cold seasons, and perhaps the balance, vetiver vs. rest, is a bit more balanced even on fabric. So far I haven't noticed any significant differences (except for the colour) between my Palais Royal Logo 50 ml bottle and the current version.
4 Replies
7.5
Scent
7
Longevity
7
Sillage
8
Bottle
Pepdal

216 Reviews
Pepdal
Pepdal
   0  
Vetiver Minuscule
I had not even heard about this Lutens until a little over a year ago. I managed to find some and it really was an unexpected surprise. Here are my thoughts, and thank you as always for watching. Enjoy.


10
Scent
8
Longevity
8
Sillage
8
Bottle
Can777

6 Reviews
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Can777
Can777
Top Review    46  
The Jade Pearl
Vetiver! I have always loved these fragrances and always liked to wear them again. At that time it was Vetiver by Goutal and Vetiver by Guerlain. Earthy,green,spicy,smoky,humid-earthy,humid-warm,crystal-clear,razor-sharp or somber-smoky. Vetiver can be so multi-faceted. So many faces he came to show. Vetiver is for me the epitome of green, vegetation, forests and wild fauna and flora. Vetiver always awakens in me a very specific old instinct...to hunt down and explore the instinct. Vetiver and also oakmoss throws us olfactory back through the time when we still lived in the woods. Its fragrance awakens something original in us!

Vétiver oriental
Vétiver oriental is not so easy to put into words. If the scent were a gemstone, it'd be jade to me. A light, milky green with white streaks. Soft, noble and supple in its aura. Nothing is hard or sharp on this scent once it is on the skin. All fragrances listed seem to be dissolved in warm cream. A citric-resinous Labdanum chord combines very quickly with a mossy-soft vetiver. Milky green plant juices with delicate hints of anise go hand in hand with creamy tones of guaiac and sandalwood. Buttery soft light musk and an almost caramel amber blend in. The chocolate listed here is a patchouli for me, but one of the most chocolaty of all. Earthy, whispering and sweet-warm. Everything flows together like the colours of a watercolour in light and soft shades of green on a damp canvas. No corners, no edges, only soft, smooth and sensual tones from Vetiver.

Conclusion
My favourite fragrances from Serge Lutens have always been Chergui and Muscs Koublaï Khän. Who knows me here knows that I prefer the animal scents very much. This fragrance does not contain one of them, but still it has something incredibly "alive" in a very different way. Rarely have I found such a successful combination. Vétiver oriental spreads on the skin a very sensual, humid, sultry green warmth. Very subtle and diffuse. The fragrance has something creeping and smooth in its aura. He's not provocative, but he's not harmless either. I haven't smelled a vetiver in a long time what appeals to my instincts like Vétiver oriental. For a long time now I have not been challenged in the most pleasant way and have been surprised by vetiver, as with this fragrance. For a long time I have been looking for a Vetiver which fits to the current Can,...I have found it!

The Jade Pearl
27 Replies
10
Scent
8
Longevity
7
Sillage
8
Bottle
Leimbacher
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Leimbacher
Leimbacher
Top Review    23  
The perfect fusion
Orientals have always been my favourite perfumes before perfume. They should be nice and heavy and easy to drink. Vetivers have been ever since I've been here, or at least a few months after I first had Guerlain's vetiver under my nose. Elegant and masculine. Serge Lutens has brought these two sides of my medal together and with "Vetiver oriental" he has created a bull's-eye that looks as if it's been cut to fit me. Seldom has it clicked like that. Love at first sniff, the classic we all strive for. What a gift that Uncle Serge has finally included it in his (German) standard collection and you don't have to go too far (even monetary) anymore.

This green spray has it all. It makes me feel hot and cold at the same time, that's how good I like it. It is cuddly and rough, scratchy and soft, luxurious and uncomplicated. It's very difficult to put into words. You just have to smell it. It's great that you can now do this much more often than before. A cuddler and seducer, a rock in the mossy surf and a sandy Lawrence of Arabia. Labdanum kisses vetiver. A creature that no one could have imagined before. Thanks to Luten and Sheldrake's brains, soul and intuition, a little dream has come true. Sexy, confident, green. And more animalistic than you might think. And not just for females. About halfway between "Gris Clair" and "Guerlain Vetiver" - mine, actually. Mine's mine. Can't I have this one exclusively for me?.. oh ok, that would be selfish. You get to sniff it. But only on me, please... :P

Flacon: perfect colour choice, I like the new designs too. It's about time that one of them finds its way into my collection.
Sillage: an elegant eater. For me, an ever-goer. From September. Especially great in the rain Shelf life: 6-9 hours set the tone.

Conclusion: the best of both worlds?! "Vetiver oriental" enchants and enraptures, is tender and hard, soft like a sheikh and cool like a European. A masterpiece of rare value. Plus much more wearable than many other SL balancing behemoths. Fabulous. A real treat. Point. The end. Over.
7 Replies
5
Scent
Greysolon

88 Reviews
Greysolon
Greysolon
   5  
Truth in advertising: Musc Oriental
The first thing to catch my eye as I read descriptions of Vetiver Oriental is that it shares a couple of eccentric, earthy essences with two of my favorite Lutens fragrances, Chene and Fille en Aiguilles. Where else, but in a Sheldrake formula, would you find “undergrowth” and “plant juice”? Unfortunately, those very notes, which are responsible for my deep visceral bond with Chene and Fille, also give the fragrances strong personalities. I only feel comfortable wearing them when the season is just right and I’m in the right frame of mind. In other words, I wear them just a few times a year. My hope was that Vetiver Oriental would retain a few of the unusual qualities I love while being a bit more friendly for general wearing. Sure enough, moments after spritzing, I smelled the medieval notes of Sheldrake’s alchemist's brew along with other, friendlier elements. Taken altogether it seemed to hold promise of Vetiver Oriental being a regular part of my fragrance wardrobe.

Within minutes I was typing my way through Amazon looking at full bottle prices. It was about that time I noticed another note coming to the fore. The note was familiar, but for some reason I couldn’t place it. Oh well, no worries, it would come to me eventually. Besides, all that mattered was that I liked this new note and that gave me yet another reason to think seriously about buying a full bottle. Back to Amazon.

Just about the time my head was beginning to reel from sticker shock, I actually started to feel physically woozy, slightly sick and my ears were ringing. Something about that mystery note was getting to me in an unpleasant way. Just as it felt as though I'd stepped off a carnival ride I had my “duh” moment of recognition.

Musk.

I have an extreme sensitivity to musk of this variety and I strongly suspect it’s a matter of transdermal absorption rather than a respiratory issue. I’ve had the same reaction to similar smelling musks used Musc Ravageur, Musc Nomade as well as other fragrances in the Lutens' line. Nonetheless, I made the sacrifice and gave Vetiver Oriental a full wearing.

A full, head spinning, ear ringing wearing.

However, let me be clear: anything negative I have to say about Vetiver Oriental isn’t based on my sensitivity. As a matter of fact, I like the smell of musk. Unfortunately, Vetiver Oriental suffers from issues that have nothing to do with my apparent musk sensitivity.

I would agree with other reviewers and say that Vetiver Oriental’s biggest flaw is the lack of vetiver. I do smell vetiver but it's not the main event. And that’s too bad because the vetiver has a beautiful, sweet, hay-like quality. Furthermore, the opening held so much promise for something wearable and yet carry Lutens’ trademark eccentricity. Vetiver Oriental is more accurately described as a musk dominant scent and that descriptor should really be in its name.

If you’re hoping Vetiver Oriental is your answer to finding an unusual, vetiver based fragrance from Serge Lutens, you’ll be sorely disappointed. If you’re looking for a musk based fragrance similar to Musc Ravageur or Musc Nomade, you might find Vetiver Oriental interesting but chances are you’ll prefer something that actually has “musc” in the name.
10
Scent
5
Longevity
5
Sillage
10
Bottle
MemoryOScent

37 Reviews
MemoryOScent
MemoryOScent
Helpful Review    5  
the olfactory oxymoron
Vetiver is one of my favourite notes. It is part of the base of more perfumes than one can detect. It gives a warm, woody facet to them. But it can also shine as the star in many performances. It can play the fresh, young, casual, lemony vetiver in Mugler Cologne or Paul Smith Story. It can also be the sophisticated, reserved vetiver of Guerlain or Vetiver Extraordinaire. It can bring on the darkness of Route du Vetiver and it can also play the Devil himself as in Lorenzo Villoresi’s rendition.

All this versatility seems to have an invisible barrier: the oriental family. It seems quite difficult to build an oriental perfume based on the earthy, smoky, woody vetiver. So when Serge Lutens decides to come up with Oriental Vetiver, this sounds a little pretentious and very interesting!

And in fact it is! Being a hardcore vetiver fan I had a really hard time finding the vetiver in this one. Once I did though, I realized that this wasn’t because it was discretely blended but because it was in such unlikely company that the surrounding notes distracted me. Unlike any other vetiver fragrance it opens with a sweet, velvety accord. I can smell the iris and the tonka, the expensive tonka, the one with the slight bitter almond note. It is sticky sweet with a powdery hue. There is a point in the development where vetiver breaks through the vale of thick and sweet notes to reveal its rubbery, rooty character. Think for a moment Vetiver Extraordinaire blended at equal volumes with La Guerlinade.

I cannot help thinking of Habit Rouge whenever I smell VO. It is not clear to me exactly why. It is not the similarity in notes per se but I believe it must be the intricate use of many different ingredients from across the spectrum of notes. Everything but the kitchen sink struggles inside the bottle for dominance and when they hit the skin hell breaks loose. A sweet hell. In fact Vetiver Oriental smells like the potion the Evil Queen soaked the Apple in for Snow White to eat. The intense edible sweetness seems to be there just to conceal the deleterious bitterness of vetiver and labdanum. It feels like danger in a bottle. But its elegance is undeniable. Every contradiction is under control in this composition. It wears like a green velvet frock coat: it is definitely something out of grandpa’s closet but worn in today’s context is totally eccentric.
2 Replies

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