Vitriol d'Œillet by Serge Lutens
Review by WRoth
Bottle 7.5 Sillage 2.5 Longevity 2.5 Scent 1.0
Vitriol d'Œillet
This fragrance opens with a (genetically) engineered carnation accord. I see its typical spiciness and sweet creaminess, but a brutally synthetic fruit contains the floral like a straightjacket. The resulting accord smells like the German hard candy Gletschereis: fruity, minty, spicy and above all sugary. It is not bad per se, just not at all what I expected after reading the press release and analysing the scent's name. This carnation is not an angry thug, but rather a (pitiful) mutant. This of course matches the fragrance's tag line which references Robert Louis Stevenson's Dr. Jekyll. On my skin the development is rather simple: the notes gradually burn out and the scent becomes weaker and weaker as it progresses. The dry down reveals a pleasant woodsy-musky base accord, almost like fruity sandalwood. In fact I like this stage the best and I would wear Vitriol layered to mask the opening only to enjoy the dry down. I think Voyage d'Hermes would work well. Truth be told, I see a violently pungent green note as I spray the fragrance, but this effect never reaches my skin so to me I does not count. Lasts eight hours on my skin.