Mandarine-mandarin

(2006)
Mandarine-mandarin by Serge Lutens
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Mandarine-mandarin (Serge Lutens)
6.5 / 10     55 RatingsRatingsRatings
Mandarine-mandarin is a perfume by Serge Lutens for women and men and was released in 2006. It is still in production.

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Fragrance Notes

Top Notes Top NotesNutmeg, Orange
Heart Notes Heart NotesMandarin, Orange zest, Tea
Base Notes Base NotesAmber, Dog rose, Labdanum, Tonka bean

Ratings

Scent

6.5 (55 Ratings)

Longevity

7.5 (38 Ratings)

Sillage

7.1 (38 Ratings)

Bottle

8.1 (44 Ratings)
Submitted by Kankuro, last update on 19.05.2017
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Reviews

Bottle 9.0/10
Sillage 7.0/10
Longevity 8.0/10
Scent 9.5/10
Very helpful Review    4 Awards
The mysterious yin and yang of the ways of an oriental orange dumpling
"To hold the garden’s fragrance in one vase, And see all autumn in a single spray?"

Cao Xueqin, Dream of the Red Chamber

Mandarine Mandarin is an under the radar, intriguing, mysterious, dark and shapeshifting Far Eastern influenced oriental. There is a peculiar textural feel of something that constantly teases and desires to be ingested, a forbidden fruit of sorts, yet it curiously offers itself only in hybrid shape: half solid quasi-gourmand, half aromatic infusion.

In a way Mandarine Mandarin can be described as a dark chutney of nutmeg-spiced oriental oranges, with pulp and peel, perfumed by vinegary pine-smoked Lapsang Souchong. A modicum of intermittent tart freshness combines momentarily with silky green herbal aromatics whilst the darker and warm spices flavour the musky ambery sea around it, complement and complete it whilst remaining in harmonious motion much like a pomandrous yin and yang.

The development, once again, is congruent with a Chinese belief, namely that "by detours one is to reach the secrets". Mandarine Mandarin vexes, zigs and zags carefree from spicy citrus via honey-ambered black tea to its last incarnation as a gentle musky-green bouquet of assorted fleurs d'oranger. Ji Cheng, in Yuanye, had a point when he described perfection (of Chinese Gardens) as "the work of man that must appear to have been created by heaven". He could as well have been talking about this highly unusual creation.
2 Replies
Bottle 10.0/10
Sillage 7.5/10
Longevity 7.5/10
Scent 6.0/10
Helpful Review    3 Awards
orange flower chutney
If the name predisposes for a citrus scent, prepare to be surprised. Of all the Serge Lutens releases that I have tried this is probably the most unconventional. It opens with a hint of candied mandarin, not the fresh, tart variety. Just a hint. Because then an intense vinegar note hits you in the face making this definitely a gourmand. An unconventional gourmand. Spices mix with vinegar, mostly cumin, giving this an oriental twist. The composition at this stage brings to mind plain old ketchup. And then orange flowers emerge transforming this into a thick, creamy floral. Orange flowers is not my favourite note in a fragrance. In fact it is a dreaded one. It usually makes me think of urinals to the point that I have to wash the dreaded stuff off my skin. But this is the only orange blossom scent that I actually enjoy wearing. In a strange way the vinegar prelude and cumin carpet draw my attention from the pissy undertones and I enjoy the creaminess of the blend. In fact the composition is so interesting that I believe Mandarine Mandarin is to orange blossom what Tubereuse Criminelle is to tuberose.
3 Replies

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