Vitriol d'Œillet Serge Lutens 2011

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7.3 / 10 231 Ratings

A perfume by Serge Lutens for women and men, released in 2011. The scent is spicy-floral. It is still in production.
Pronunciation

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Main accords

Spicy

Floral

Powdery

Sweet

Fresh

Fragrance Notes

Carnation

Clove

Cayenne pepper

Gillyflower

Perfumers

Christopher Sheldrake, Serge Lutens

Ratings

Scent

7.3231 Ratings

Longevity

7.5170 Ratings

Sillage

6.8161 Ratings

Bottle

7.8153 Ratings

Value for money

7.122 Ratings

Submitted by PontNeuf, last update on 23.12.2023.

Reviews

8 in-depth fragrance descriptions

11/16/2012

7.5
Bottle 5
Sillage 7.5
Longevity 7
Scent

Missk
1165 Reviews

Missk

Very helpful Review 8

Fiery carnation

A very important note is missing in this scent pyramid, and that is carnation. For many critics, Vitriol d’œillet failed to impress, but I'm going to add my two cents and say that I actually enjoyed wearing Vitriol d’œillet and am quite prepared to give it a favourable review.

Carnation is a gloriously rich floral scent, which in my opinion doesn't feature enough in fragrances these days. Vitriol d’œillet displays the beauty of this flower without overdoing it. However, clove and pink pepper do tend to be the most dominate notes in this composition.

Vitriol d’œillet, is in my opinion, the feminine equivalent of Givenchy's Xeryus Rouge. Red-hot, fiery peppers spice up both these fragrances with the same kind of allure found in Peruvian cuisine. It's like a taste explosion on the skin.

When I think of Serge Lutens, I usually think of big, bold scents, however in this particular case, Vitriol d’œillet is quite subtle in terms of sillage. It lays low, but pleasantly so. A touch of smooth powderiness stops this fragrance from becoming too spicy and hot.

I am rather enjoying the unique nature of this fragrance, and have worn it over two consecutive days. The way it develops and morphs on the skin is quite commendable in terms of composition and approach. It's different to say the least and also quite versatile. I'm rather glad that this is a unisex fragrance, because it's a scent I'd enjoy on both myself and my significant other.

The longevity of Vitriol d’œillet was really impressive, lasting a good eight hours or more. It's even difficult to scrub off in the shower, which was a good sign. This fragrance's reception has been varied, so be prepared to either love it or hate it. I truly hope that it works for more people because I personally think it deserves more attention.

05/26/2013

7.5
Bottle 7.5
Sillage 10
Longevity 8
Scent

Ysbrand
84 Reviews

Ysbrand

The dissection of a carnation

After reviewing Dolce & Gabbana´s pricey Velvet Love, and praising it for its stunning sensual carnation, i thought i would revisit this very different take on the same flower, Vitriol d´Oeillet.

This is a modernized old-fashioned dandy fragance. Like a stylish costume movie from this year, or last year, or next year. The retro spirit is there, but the nowadays audience can relate to it and feel thrilled and captivated by the period.

And so, in the line of many pepper-based recent releases, the carnation spicy side is taking over the opening and great part of the developement of the fragance. Lets say, if you take an ingredient as the center of a formula, you add some other ingredients that enhance certain facets of it so you provide the fragance with a point of view and a message... well, in this case the enhancers (heavy doses of different peppers, mostly, clove and a sweet, alluring hoary stock) are almost dominant , almost but not to the point that the carnation is lost, quite the contrary, because they are all pointing at the same direction: carnation, at the very center, or certain idea of carnation, more than a faithful botanical portrait of the plant.

Although Vitriol has clearly a polite floral character (carnation, but also rose) the abrasiveness of the fragance is very evident to me, specially in the first hour. Nevertheless for some people this carnation was not angry enough, and felt dissapointed. Not my case. This dandy is angry under his beautiful features, like a victorian version of american psycho. He smiles and you dont see the punch coming. I detect a tinkling radiant woody note amidst the pepper and the dainty rosy petals, like a scalpel, chemical, inorganic. Lutens suggests Dr. Jeckyl and Mr Hyde. I think of Dorian Gray.

This formal flower refinement with the underlying violence is very intriguing, and it has an ironic, mocking mood; very much like the same Lutens´ Confucius-like statements about his own fragances. I regard at it as a really elegant choice for women and men, and i think i would consider investing in a bottle, because it is an extremely long-lasting, rather linear, fragance and of course because i like it.

11/13/2014

8
Scent

Awesomeness
247 Reviews

Awesomeness

Helpful Review 5

It's a grower

When I first tried Vitriol d'Oeillet, I did not find it carnation enough. Then I realized that perhaps it was not a carnation scent at all, but an impression of carnation. That may or many not be true.

But now, after about 4 wears, I find Vitriol d'Oeillet to be like a lightly spiced rose sitting on transparent woods. It opens clean, like soap, and has aldehydes. It then warms before transitioning to a that spiced rose.

I would say that Vitriol d'Oeillet is on the feminine side of unisex, but not by much. It's a very grounded fragrance, and the base notes are easy to wear, which is rare for me with most of the unisex Lutens.

Vitriol d'Oeillet wears close to the skin & lasts a good, long while too. It's pleasant enough to draw compliments but unique enough to keep me smelling my wrists. However, it is absolutely compelling when re-applied, which is when Vitriol d'Oeillet really shines. This is one of those fragrances that's best sprayed in the morning after a showe, then respray in the evening for a date, dinner or event. It's versatile and can stretch from morning to night, and across any season for that matter.

I was initially on the fence about this fragrance. But when I learned to stop expecting a carnation, the fragrance began to grow on me.

09/26/2012

9
Scent

Sfonativeboy
18 Reviews

Sfonativeboy

Helpful Review 5

Prickly Spicy Carnations

I read fragrance blogs that this would be a Powdery CARNATION fragrance...
I imagined it .....to be a very modern take on the classic BELLODGIA by CARON
which I love for its in your face CARNATION notes....
softened by VANILLA, MUSK and CLOVE.

Boy was I pleasantly wrong.
This fragrance is really spicy. !!!!
PINK PEPPER... PEPPER... PIMENTO(PAPRIKA) are ingredients listed
and they are the are the strongest notes that hit my nose first
they then remain there tingling
much the way Jalapenos peppers tingle
the lips and tongue
This sounds ..terrible,unless you happen to like that kind of FIERY sensation
SERGE LUTENS manages to soften this fiery concoction
with CARNATION FLOWERS and a hint of CLOVE
The NUTMEG is a hidden note .. I could not detect.

The fragrance that it brings to mind for its similar
unique spiciness
If i could suggest such a thing...
AMBRE GRIS by BALMAIN

Both are spicy......and peppery and very masculine in
an upfront manner.
however, Vitriol turns into a light powdery spicy fragrance
which then develops into yes...
a sharp woody scent
and back again ....

A juxtaposition of scents...I know.
a most unusual feat in of itself .
that in the end .. is very unisex !!!

Bravo SERGE!!
You won me over again....with your complexity!

02/17/2017

7
Bottle 7
Sillage 7
Longevity 8.5
Scent

Mrsg37
32 Reviews

Mrsg37

Spicy carnation warmth

This is beautiful, an abundance of clovey, spicy carnation goodness.It lasts and is suitable for any season I feel although its approaching winter right now in good old blighty and I'm loving it. Although it's spicy and peppery I get the floral in this too, subdued violet and a wearable, non screechy lily and the carnation is gorgeous. I'm honestly turning into a right little Lutens whore ha ha really enjoying alot of his scents right now!

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