Vitriol d'Œillet (2011)

Vitriol d'Œillet by Serge Lutens
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Vitriol d'Œillet (Serge Lutens)
Vitriol d'Œillet (Serge Lutens)
Vitriol d'Œillet (Serge Lutens)
7.2 / 10     157 RatingsRatingsRatings
Vitriol d'Œillet is a perfume by Serge Lutens for women and men and was released in 2011. The scent is spicy-flowery. It is still in production.

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Fragrance Notes

Carnation, Cayenne pepper, Gillyflower, Clove



7.2 (157 Ratings)


7.4 (102 Ratings)


6.5 (92 Ratings)


7.5 (92 Ratings)
Submitted by PontNeuf, last update on 29.05.2017
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Bottle 7.0/10 Sillage 7.0/10 Longevity 7.0/10 Scent 8.5/10
Spicy carnation warmth
This is beautiful, an abundance of clovey, spicy carnation goodness.It lasts and is suitable for any season I feel although its approaching winter right now in good old blighty and I'm loving it. Although it's spicy and peppery I get the floral in this too, subdued violet and a wearable, non screechy lily and the carnation is gorgeous. I'm honestly turning into a right little Lutens whore ha ha really enjoying alot of his scents right now!
Bottle 7.5/10 Sillage 2.5/10 Longevity 2.5/10 Scent 1.0/10
Vitriol d'Œillet
This fragrance opens with a (genetically) engineered carnation accord. I see its typical spiciness and sweet creaminess, but a brutally synthetic fruit contains the floral like a straightjacket. The resulting accord smells like the German hard candy Gletschereis: fruity, minty, spicy and above all sugary. It is not bad per se, just not at all what I expected after reading the press release and analysing the scent's name. This carnation is not an angry thug, but rather a (pitiful) mutant. This of course matches the fragrance's tag line which references Robert Louis Stevenson's Dr. Jekyll. On my skin the development is rather simple: the notes gradually burn out and the scent becomes weaker and weaker as it progresses. The dry down reveals a pleasant woodsy-musky base accord, almost like fruity sandalwood. In fact I like this stage the best and I would wear Vitriol layered to mask the opening only to enjoy the dry down. I think Voyage d'Hermes would work well. Truth be told, I see a violently pungent green note as I spray the fragrance, but this effect never reaches my skin so to me I does not count. Lasts eight hours on my skin.
Scent 8.0/10
Very helpful Review    7
Carnation boutonnière
Since my interest in perfume didn’t hit full on obsession until midlife, there are gaps in my knowledge of classic fragrances and genres. As a result, I think I’m intuitively drawn to fragrances that are fairly basic and straightforward as a way of wrapping my nose around traditional forms. To my surprise, these intuitive choices occasionally turn out to be simply wonderful, well crafted, perfumes. I know it’s cliche, but quality never goes out of fashion and sometimes conservative, uncomplicated scents need to be part of one's wardrobe for more formal occasions. Vitriol d'Œillet fits this role perfectly.

At this point, you’re probably shaking your head in disbelief and wondering, “Wait a minute! Conservative? Uncomplicated? Is this is really a review for a Serge Lutens’ perfume?” Yes, it really is and, no, I haven't mixed it up with a review for another fragrance. And here's another surprise: when describing Vitriol d'Œillet, the adjectives conservative and uncomplicated also combine to create the fragrant accord of elegance. Yes, you've read that correctly, elegance. There’s another word not often associated with the scents of Le Grande Serge. I stumbled across this description of Vitriol d'Œillet by Victoria, author of the blog Bois de Jasmin, and I think it gets to the heart of why I find it so elegant and proper:
“I find it easier to describe Vitriol d’Oeillet …by describing what it is not, rather than what it is. It is not a romantic perfume nor is it an austere perfume. It is not modern, yet it is not old-fashioned either.”

When I imagine the fragrant details of Vitriol d’Oeillet, my mind instantly conjures up a carnation boutonnière; although the perfume presents a deeper, soft focus idealization of carnation. That soft focus comes from a light dusting of carnation scented talc which keeps the flower from being high pitched and too ephemeral. Then there's one of my favorite accords in all of perfumery; the use of pepper to bring out the natural spiciness of florals. With a little help from sandalwood, the namesake vitriol accomplishes this task beautifully. Finally, this perfume boutonnière even has a few sprigs of bitter greenery (violet leaf?) pinned to the stem of the carnation which prevents the fragrance from becoming too homogenous.

While the name Vitriol d'Œillet and its description on the Lutens' website sound ferocious, there is nothing about this fragrance that is vitriolic. And while I've described this as a soft, elegant fragrance, it is truly unisex and would serve to adorn men's attire with a floral accent now that boutonnières are a thing of the past.
2 Replies
Scent 8.0/10
It's a grower
When I first tried Vitriol d'Oeillet, I did not find it carnation enough. Then I realized that perhaps it was not a carnation scent at all, but an impression of carnation. That may or many not be true.

But now, after about 4 wears, I find Vitriol d'Oeillet to be like a lightly spiced rose sitting on transparent woods. It opens clean, like soap, and has aldehydes. It then warms before transitioning to a that spiced rose.

I would say that Vitriol d'Oeillet is on the feminine side of unisex, but not by much. It's a very grounded fragrance, and the base notes are easy to wear, which is rare for me with most of the unisex Lutens.

Vitriol d'Oeillet wears close to the skin & lasts a good, long while too. It's pleasant enough to draw compliments but unique enough to keep me smelling my wrists. However, it is absolutely compelling when re-applied, which is when Vitriol d'Oeillet really shines. This is one of those fragrances that's best sprayed in the morning after a showe, then respray in the evening for a date, dinner or event. It's versatile and can stretch from morning to night, and across any season for that matter.

I was initially on the fence about this fragrance. But when I learned to stop expecting a carnation, the fragrance began to grow on me.
Bottle 7.5/10 Sillage 7.5/10 Longevity 10.0/10 Scent 8.0/10
The dissection of a carnation
After reviewing Dolce & Gabbana´s pricey Velvet Love, and praising it for its stunning sensual carnation, i thought i would revisit this very different take on the same flower, Vitriol d´Oeillet.

This is a modernized old-fashioned dandy fragance. Like a stylish costume movie from this year, or last year, or next year. The retro spirit is there, but the nowadays audience can relate to it and feel thrilled and captivated by the period.

And so, in the line of many pepper-based recent releases, the carnation spicy side is taking over the opening and great part of the developement of the fragance. Lets say, if you take an ingredient as the center of a formula, you add some other ingredients that enhance certain facets of it so you provide the fragance with a point of view and a message... well, in this case the enhancers (heavy doses of different peppers, mostly, clove and a sweet, alluring hoary stock) are almost dominant , almost but not to the point that the carnation is lost, quite the contrary, because they are all pointing at the same direction: carnation, at the very center, or certain idea of carnation, more than a faithful botanical portrait of the plant.

Although Vitriol has clearly a polite floral character (carnation, but also rose) the abrasiveness of the fragance is very evident to me, specially in the first hour. Nevertheless for some people this carnation was not angry enough, and felt dissapointed. Not my case. This dandy is angry under his beautiful features, like a victorian version of american psycho. He smiles and you dont see the punch coming. I detect a tinkling radiant woody note amidst the pepper and the dainty rosy petals, like a scalpel, chemical, inorganic. Lutens suggests Dr. Jeckyl and Mr Hyde. I think of Dorian Gray.

This formal flower refinement with the underlying violence is very intriguing, and it has an ironic, mocking mood; very much like the same Lutens´ Confucius-like statements about his own fragances. I regard at it as a really elegant choice for women and men, and i think i would consider investing in a bottle, because it is an extremely long-lasting, rather linear, fragance and of course because i like it.
2 Replies
Bottle 7.5/10 Sillage 5.0/10 Longevity 7.5/10 Scent 7.0/10
Helpful Review    8
Fiery carnation
A very important note is missing in this scent pyramid, and that is carnation. For many critics, Vitriol d’œillet failed to impress, but I'm going to add my two cents and say that I actually enjoyed wearing Vitriol d’œillet and am quite prepared to give it a favourable review.

Carnation is a gloriously rich floral scent, which in my opinion doesn't feature enough in fragrances these days. Vitriol d’œillet displays the beauty of this flower without overdoing it. However, clove and pink pepper do tend to be the most dominate notes in this composition.

Vitriol d’œillet, is in my opinion, the feminine equivalent of Givenchy's Xeryus Rouge. Red-hot, fiery peppers spice up both these fragrances with the same kind of allure found in Peruvian cuisine. It's like a taste explosion on the skin.

When I think of Serge Lutens, I usually think of big, bold scents, however in this particular case, Vitriol d’œillet is quite subtle in terms of sillage. It lays low, but pleasantly so. A touch of smooth powderiness stops this fragrance from becoming too spicy and hot.

I am rather enjoying the unique nature of this fragrance, and have worn it over two consecutive days. The way it develops and morphs on the skin is quite commendable in terms of composition and approach. It's different to say the least and also quite versatile. I'm rather glad that this is a unisex fragrance, because it's a scent I'd enjoy on both myself and my significant other.

The longevity of Vitriol d’œillet was really impressive, lasting a good eight hours or more. It's even difficult to scrub off in the shower, which was a good sign. This fragrance's reception has been varied, so be prepared to either love it or hate it. I truly hope that it works for more people because I personally think it deserves more attention.
2 Replies
Scent 9.0/10
Helpful Review    5
Prickly Spicy Carnations
I read fragrance blogs that this would be a Powdery CARNATION fragrance...
I imagined it be a very modern take on the classic BELLODGIA by CARON
which I love for its in your face CARNATION notes....
softened by VANILLA, MUSK and CLOVE.

Boy was I pleasantly wrong.
This fragrance is really spicy. !!!!
PINK PEPPER... PEPPER... PIMENTO(PAPRIKA) are ingredients listed
and they are the are the strongest notes that hit my nose first
they then remain there tingling
much the way Jalapenos peppers tingle
the lips and tongue
This sounds ..terrible,unless you happen to like that kind of FIERY sensation
SERGE LUTENS manages to soften this fiery concoction
with CARNATION FLOWERS and a hint of CLOVE
The NUTMEG is a hidden note .. I could not detect.

The fragrance that it brings to mind for its similar
unique spiciness
If i could suggest such a thing...

Both are spicy......and peppery and very masculine in
an upfront manner.
however, Vitriol turns into a light powdery spicy fragrance
which then develops into yes...
a sharp woody scent
and back again ....

A juxtaposition of scents...I know.
a most unusual feat in of itself .
that in the end .. is very unisex !!!

Bravo SERGE!!
You won me over again....with your complexity!

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