But when it all settles down, Nombre Noir is a blackcurrant jasmin-rose with a biscuit base and woody-musk.
I imagine that, originally, the rosy facet would have had more of a stained glass feel, but the molecules responsible are fragile, and for example, alpha-damascone (rose, apple, blackcurrant and mint with a rich plum undertone) is now sold with a stabiliser.
When the purple fruity rose is paired with a light brown woody-oily-musky base - with a sawdust feel up close, it makes for an interesting colour scheme, as well as a vibrant contrast.
NoNo develops the fruity and musky pairing of Mûre et Musc (1978) and it also draws on other Shiseido works like Murasaki from the 1980's (in the original fruity - praline version) and the 'woody rose' of Zen (1964) - as Luca Turin described it.
Now, thanks to Turin's assessment, NoNo has legendary status. Like Grain de musc with her Iris Gris, I'm lucky - I found a sample on a flea market. So I can say, this tart-fruity and woody purple rose is very nice; but I wouldn't pay exorbitant prices for it. Nombre Noir is not unique enough to warrant that kind of outlay, and there are other things - which are there or there abouts - that are better value for money in my opinion.
Here, Pierre Guillaume found a muscular way to link muguet and lilac through their mutual note of indole. Usually associated with orange blossom and jasmine sambac, it gives this duoflor a strange kind of beauty, like a Star Trek alien, who is attractive...
Pink, not pepper
Piment was lumbered with an ill fitting name. It means capsicum or chilli pepper; but it's not hot. It also means character or spice of life, so maybe that's what they had in mind for this variation of Azzaro pour Homme (released a year before...