Top Notes
Galbanum
Honey pomelo
Green lemon
Ginger
Heart Notes
Cypriol
Black pepper
Nutmeg
Celery
Magnolia
Tea
Base Notes
Patchouli
Labdanum
Oakmoss
Castoreum
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Collection
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Notes05/03/2021
Jazzbob
Translated Show original
Jazzbob
Very helpful Review
9
Retro Shaving Soap Chypre
The headline says it all: The Tycoon shows himself as an old warhorse who has made himself comfortable in his executive chair and values tradition, but also comes across as somewhat gruff and whose word carries weight. Some of these qualities are still important in leadership positions today, but the line to toxic masculinity and a lack of willingness to compromise is quickly crossed and can bring many problems.
In terms of perfume, of course, it's much less critical to rely on old values. Bertrand Duchaufour has definitely been inspired by the genre of chypre and the style of the 80s, and right from the start the fragrance shows itself to be strikingly masculine and tart and thoroughly opulent. The citrusy top notes immediately combine with the bitter-green facets of galbanum and oakmoss and are further supported by nutmeg and pepper. This still gives The Tycoon a certain spiciness, which is however moderately chosen. I also detect a subliminal earthy-mineral mustiness reminiscent of Terre de Hermes, but this is by no means a fragrance twin (nor is Bohemian Lime, by the way, which is more modern and transparent). As fresh I would not classify The Tycoon - I would have expected with the notes, however - and thus he sounds primarily woody-earthy-mossy and due to its dry bitterness almost smoky effecting.
As I could determine today at work, he is also not so restrained, because although I had sprayed in the morning in wise foresight only once each on the two wrists, the scent is so far well perceptible. However, the amount of oakmoss(-substitute) annoys me quite a bit. If it is to go in such a bitter green direction, then I prefer Jovoy's Incident Diplomatique - but this one doesn't come off so well everywhere... Such fragrances and personalities just don't want to chum up anywhere - that's a good quality after all.
In terms of perfume, of course, it's much less critical to rely on old values. Bertrand Duchaufour has definitely been inspired by the genre of chypre and the style of the 80s, and right from the start the fragrance shows itself to be strikingly masculine and tart and thoroughly opulent. The citrusy top notes immediately combine with the bitter-green facets of galbanum and oakmoss and are further supported by nutmeg and pepper. This still gives The Tycoon a certain spiciness, which is however moderately chosen. I also detect a subliminal earthy-mineral mustiness reminiscent of Terre de Hermes, but this is by no means a fragrance twin (nor is Bohemian Lime, by the way, which is more modern and transparent). As fresh I would not classify The Tycoon - I would have expected with the notes, however - and thus he sounds primarily woody-earthy-mossy and due to its dry bitterness almost smoky effecting.
As I could determine today at work, he is also not so restrained, because although I had sprayed in the morning in wise foresight only once each on the two wrists, the scent is so far well perceptible. However, the amount of oakmoss(-substitute) annoys me quite a bit. If it is to go in such a bitter green direction, then I prefer Jovoy's Incident Diplomatique - but this one doesn't come off so well everywhere... Such fragrances and personalities just don't want to chum up anywhere - that's a good quality after all.
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