Khôl de Bahreïn (2013)

Khôl de Bahreïn by Stéphane Humbert Lucas
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7.8 / 10     108 RatingsRatingsRatings
Khôl de Bahreïn is a popular perfume by Stéphane Humbert Lucas for women and men and was released in 2013. The scent is sweet-oriental. The longevity is above-average. It is still in production.

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Fragrance Notes

Top Notes Top NotesSweet notes, Resins, Violet
Heart Notes Heart NotesAmbergris, Iris, Sandalwood
Base Notes Base NotesPeru balsam, Musk

Ratings

Scent

7.8 (108 Ratings)

Longevity

8.4 (86 Ratings)

Sillage

7.4 (95 Ratings)

Bottle

8.7 (96 Ratings)
Submitted by Avelus, last update on 23.06.2018
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Reviews

Scent 9.0/10
Helpful Review    4
Living in your Eyes
“…and if I were to choose a home,

I would say:

My home is your love.

And if I were to forget you,

my heart would forget me.

And if I lost my way,

I would live in your eyes.”

Farouk Goweedah
My hypnotic fascination with Khôl de Bahreïn is grounded in the marriage between its Orient-informed inspirations and its cosmopolitan sensibilities and contemporary execution. Yet, mysteriously, it remains as intangible and far away as a mirage of distant shores in the middle of a desert. Khôl de Bahreïn tempts with promises of sweet delight simultaneously examining the smell of beauty as well as the beauty of taste.

Straight up there are intensely sweet and smoky resins dipped in creamy golden-ambered warmth. Enter a lipstick-like iris, the diva of the show - rich, soft and buttery, underscored by a briny and iced ambergris, which works to prevent the balsamic wrapper from melting the waxy and powdery protagonist. There is a clever and very peculiar balance at work here between the hot and the cold - a joyous and rather unique give and take between do-not-touch and go-ahead-and-eat-me. As the composition settles there is a thoroughly intriguing juxtaposition of the contrasting sensations of the warm complexion of perfectly groomed facial skin enriched by make up on one hand and that of sweet and chilled, toffeed and orange zest infused baklava with just a sprinkling of crushed almondy pistachio on the other.

It is precisely because I imagine Khôl de Bahreïn being worn by a very particular type of woman that I claim it for myself and this is where the circle to Goweedah’s poem closes for me.
2 Replies
jtd
Very helpful Review    5
smoky eye
A gourmand-cosmetic perfume might not sound like the ideal hybrid fragrance, but Khol de Bahrein is convincing. It is a candied floriental of middle-eastern extraction with iris, violet and heliotropin dipped in amber and incense. The range of resins and flowers is calibrated to create an image of sweets ranging from dragées to nougat and pistachio baclava to orange blossom cakes.

The amber-incense heart is melodic and lightly smoky, less a campfire, more the burnt edges of a cake. Heliotropin’s marzipan aroma hints at vanilla around every corner but you never come eye to eye with it. The buttery aspects of the flowers become embedded in the resin so that scent and texture become linked. The contrasting tones converge elegantly and create a perfume that has a distinctive ‘feel’ for lack of a better word, powdery and oily at the same time like the feeling of pollen on your fingers.

Khol de Bahrein is thick and matte yet light, like the powder of a compact that can be applied lightly or heavily for different effect. The list of notes is like the ingredients in a recipe. They tell you about flavors, or in this case aromas, but give little indications about the texture of the end product. The long arc could allow it to be mistaken for a linear perfume, but on close inspection there is a slow, steady progression, an olfactory inertia that gives the perfume an optimistic and luxurious sense of endless heartnotes. The fugue-like progression of candied notes brings Khol close to loukoum, but it cleverly avoids the cloying sweetness or fly-in-amber inescapability of the loukoum perfumes.

Khol de Bahrein could be compared to Shalimar. It has iris and vanillic amber but it lacks Shalimar’s harp-strumming melodrama and heavy velvet stage curtains. A better comparison is Jicky, little less dense than Shalimar but still forceful. Kohl de Bahrein avoids Jicky’s overt animalism but the sweet leather base gives it a comparable shadowy quality. Like Jacques Guerlain, Stephane Humbert Lucas defines the oriental perfume as a near-gourmand experience.

from scenthurdle.com
1 Replies
Helpful Review    2
I'm kind of divided about this one. Maybe i expected to love it based on the enthusiasm i saw, but it didn't make me feel this way once i have applied it on my skin. It seems luxurious with something like an ancient aura made polished and modern, but for me it still has that standard golden amber aura that you get when you make a base of labdanum, benjoin, vanilla and musk. Maybe because i'm not so fond of amber aromas they stick like a sore thumb on all the fragrances i try that has them. But still, at least this is not heavy on those or on any other ambery material, which lets me appreciate the velvet iris, the slightly sweet violet which seems to be completed by a quick sugary note. It' s for me a kind of comfort, cashmere scent, but it lacks anything really exciting. I'd comfortably go through a decant, but would get sick of wearing an entire bottle of it.

Statements

Hermesh 3 years ago
Reminds of a fruit candy, which is sweet and cooling simultaneously. Warm balsamic notes are well balanced by ambergris and iris.+1
Bottle 10.0
Sillage 7.5
Longevity 10.0
Scent 7.0

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