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04/28/2018
QuercusAlbus
72 Reviews
QuercusAlbus
2
Outside the Standard Scheme
Thameen is one of those perfume provenancers I consider to be pretty much unequivocally superb. Their range is not large; but I don't think that apart fræ Xerjoff there is any other provenancer of whom I can safely say that ^everything^ they put-out is superb. Thameen is a little different fræ Xerjoff in that apart fræ the extreme outlier ~Palace Oud~ and a slight glitch in the case of ~Regent Leather~ their 'fumes are the same price - well into high-end brackett but not extreme. Bascally, fræ the very first moment the first whiff catches you it just ^yells^ at you that it is several floors above the mainstream standard price-brackett 'fumes in the tower of song (analogy courtesy of a certain Leonard Cohen song (may the great man's soul be at peace)). This is ^any^ of them I speak of when I say this; so basically you could just randomly select one and it wouldn't matter all that much. I haven't had anywhere near as much of a problem with ^any^ other provenancer with changing my mind to-&-fro at the last moment. And another remarkable quality of this range is that it just ^utterly evades^ the usual system of categorisation. With most ranges you can say "oh there's the °irisy° one ... there's the °rosey° one ... there's the °salty musky° one ... there's ... ..."; but with these Thameens you just ^cannot^ do that!
Anyway, this one is a ^colossal^ chameleon of a 'fume - you just don't know where you are with it. It just goes here & there & everywhere olfactorily speaking. One moment I thought "its like Malle's ~Musc Ravageur~; another I thought "like Mazzone's ~Hard Leather~"; sometimes I thought "now it's an oud+rose combination"; other moments I made other comparisons, most of which I could not name; sometimes it seems bright & juicy, other times dark & smokey. I think it's one of those that cunningly succeed in occupying the dead centre of a hitherto unoccupied olfactory space with its most closely related 'fumes (non of which however are ^very^ closely related) - and in this case the 'fumes I have named, & those I could not name that I alluded to - at it's periphery. I had the experience of someone suddenly standing up & walking away near me (^not^ because of this 'fume!) & thereby creating a fleeting slight draft; and in the draught was the most gorgeous aroma, and I thought "what 'fume is ^she^ wearing?"; but it quickly transpired upon summary earching-out that it was in fact ^my^ perfume, which is to say, this one, and that the slight draught had °dislodged° a new aspect of it.
It is a ^somewhat^ oudy 'fume; and the skankiness of the oud is marvellously fleeting & elusive, and never quite prevails making it a skanky 'fume per-se. It is also ^very^ intensely musky, the musk being of a rich & ^somewhat^ °sweaty° kind (I have carefully & lengthily explicated this term elsewhere). And very often it comes across as ^anything but^ skanky. It is ^surpassingly^ superbly integrated: don't imagine for a moment that the varying face of this is simply the constituent notes being perceived serially! There is orange listed as being in this, and its effect is discernible. In fact, it's possibly wellsayable that the orange note is actually the °fulcrum° or °centre° of mass° of this 'fume. Yes, I do think it might be wellsaid that this 'fume is essentially a °fugue° on the orange note; and one that really ^very^ boldly extendeth the scope of just how sundrily & far-reachingly this note might be be-fuguen.
And it created a ^big^ stir when I went out wearing it last night. Nowhere near as big as that created by ~Ceylon~, but still big. Pœps loved it: it broke down that psychic barrier against compliments that I seem to project, and a few wanted me to luge them with it, whereunto I obliged. My bottle has thus gone down a fair bit; but the littleness of its going-down relative to my obligingity (by reason of which I sometimes get called 'Osmophor' or 'Pungifer', depending on whether one prefer Greek or Latin, either of which means ~bringer of aromata') testifieth mickle to the intrinsic heft of this 'fume.
Anyway, this one is a ^colossal^ chameleon of a 'fume - you just don't know where you are with it. It just goes here & there & everywhere olfactorily speaking. One moment I thought "its like Malle's ~Musc Ravageur~; another I thought "like Mazzone's ~Hard Leather~"; sometimes I thought "now it's an oud+rose combination"; other moments I made other comparisons, most of which I could not name; sometimes it seems bright & juicy, other times dark & smokey. I think it's one of those that cunningly succeed in occupying the dead centre of a hitherto unoccupied olfactory space with its most closely related 'fumes (non of which however are ^very^ closely related) - and in this case the 'fumes I have named, & those I could not name that I alluded to - at it's periphery. I had the experience of someone suddenly standing up & walking away near me (^not^ because of this 'fume!) & thereby creating a fleeting slight draft; and in the draught was the most gorgeous aroma, and I thought "what 'fume is ^she^ wearing?"; but it quickly transpired upon summary earching-out that it was in fact ^my^ perfume, which is to say, this one, and that the slight draught had °dislodged° a new aspect of it.
It is a ^somewhat^ oudy 'fume; and the skankiness of the oud is marvellously fleeting & elusive, and never quite prevails making it a skanky 'fume per-se. It is also ^very^ intensely musky, the musk being of a rich & ^somewhat^ °sweaty° kind (I have carefully & lengthily explicated this term elsewhere). And very often it comes across as ^anything but^ skanky. It is ^surpassingly^ superbly integrated: don't imagine for a moment that the varying face of this is simply the constituent notes being perceived serially! There is orange listed as being in this, and its effect is discernible. In fact, it's possibly wellsayable that the orange note is actually the °fulcrum° or °centre° of mass° of this 'fume. Yes, I do think it might be wellsaid that this 'fume is essentially a °fugue° on the orange note; and one that really ^very^ boldly extendeth the scope of just how sundrily & far-reachingly this note might be be-fuguen.
And it created a ^big^ stir when I went out wearing it last night. Nowhere near as big as that created by ~Ceylon~, but still big. Pœps loved it: it broke down that psychic barrier against compliments that I seem to project, and a few wanted me to luge them with it, whereunto I obliged. My bottle has thus gone down a fair bit; but the littleness of its going-down relative to my obligingity (by reason of which I sometimes get called 'Osmophor' or 'Pungifer', depending on whether one prefer Greek or Latin, either of which means ~bringer of aromata') testifieth mickle to the intrinsic heft of this 'fume.
