It's a cold winter morning in central Lisbon. There is a light drizzle in the air. Lot's of people rush in all directions to avoid getting wet by the annoying humidity that penetrates their clothes.
Inside the Rossio train station there is an infernal noise of splashing footsteps from people getting in and getting out. It is still to early to care for wandering tourists and the current crowd just wants to arrive on time to their work places and as dry as possible. In the train station Starbucks counter there is a bunch of people hurrying to drink a quick expresso or a slower "galão" (portuguese cappuccino). The front esplanade seeks for carefree customers, but it's not yet the time for the leisure people that will surely crowd the place from mid morning onwards.
Only one person was sitting in front of one round table. It was a grey haired man, wearing a tweed dark suit and a beige Burberry raincoat. Somehow he really did not seem to fit in that ambiance as probably he was the only person not in a hurry besides myself. I sat in front of a nearby table facing the back of the lone customer. There was a fantastic scent of a yummy cappuccino sweetened by dark sugar and vanilla powder lingering in the air. I just asked the impatient waiter to bring the same for me. For my astonishement he brought me a buttered toast and black tea. Only then I realized that the strong but elegant scent came from the man itself. Somehow that scent felt a lot more appropriated for the foggy wet morning than the fragrance I was wearing. I politely asked the elegant man what perfume he was wearing even if I already suspected of a Mugler signature.
Pure Tonka is a linear but passionate and lively fragrance, with a strong accord of toasted sweet tonka, flourishing from the very opening till the end of the drydown, blended with coffee and cocoa capuccino, and flavoured by an also gourmand vanilla. The lingering cappuccino aroma with whiffs of toasted caramel is pretty strong, although it starts to faint before the tonka and vanilla duo. Sometimes the cappuccino note seems to be heavier on the coffee side and some other times leans more towards a dark chocolate scent. Well for me the cappuccino scent is all about coffee and cocoa anyway.
Some people claim that there are notes of licorice and crème brullè in this fragrance. i just don't notice them.
However I do feel an heavy sweet presence of dark toasted caramel but it may be just the venezuelan tonka leaving that sweet impression. Another non listed note I sense in this fragrance is tar, a pleasant tar that leaves a smoky trail.
Without any doubts this is an unisex fragrance for me, even if a lavender faint note is present to make it more masculine.
Here is my math for Thierry Mugler's Pure Tonka:
Scent Opening: 10.0 (my judgement)
Scent Dry Down: 10.0 (my judgement)
Longevity: 9.0 (2 good sprays may last up to 10 hours)
Sillage: 8.0 (6 feet at its peak with just 2 sprays; quite good projection for almost 3 hours)
Uniqueness: 9.5 (close to New Haarlem Bond No 9 and a distant cousin of Rochas Men)
Wearability: 8.0 (mainly a mild to cold weather scent; you may use it either outdoors or indoors, day or night)
Versatility: 7.5 (very sexy, good for leisure, clubbing, socializing, events, restaurants, dates, romancing, intimacy, weaddings,... not good to the office, informal meetings, small spaces, work out, beach and places where you may sweat)
Compliments: 9.0 (This fragrance will please to a wide range of people of both genders; It's quite a compliment magnet. The number of compliments I received while wearing it today exceeded my expectations... even from my wife :-) )
Quality: 9.0 (Above average quality, good performance, top quality ingredients, nice heavy flask,.. almost perfect but I take 1 point due to one of the lousiest sprayers I have ever experienced)
Presentation: 8.0 (my note for all the A*Men flasks)
Price: 7.0 (100 ml non tester for € 42 + shipping)
Overall rating: 8.64/10.00
- between 7 and 8 =above average;
- between 8 and 9 = recomended;
- bigger than 9 = don't miss it;
I recommend this fragrance; it's a gourmand fragrance with a bit of smokiness and pleasing both women and men. I really like it very much.