Something about the black color is glamorous and eye-catching, especially in the flowers. Of course, many will show that plants with black color simply do not exist in nature because they do not have the necessary pigment genes, but there are hybrid species that are as close as possible to this noble shade. The black orchid is one of the most expensive and desirable flowers because it combines elegance and nobility. Dark colors are mourning and sadness, but they hide a mystery in themselves, surrounded by an aura of enigma and grace. Many perceive Black Orchid as a noble and costly flower, and Tom Ford called it one of his best aromas. Perhaps soon, breeders will achieve the impossible and create an absolutely black flower.
Black Orchid is not one of those scents to try on the paper strip because it takes time to develop. The warmth of the skin is the momentum that brings out the image enclosed in the flower of the Black Orchid. Wow, this is a full-bodied beer! Brew sounds like a good word for this juice. It is dark and pungent and smells like its name, Black Orchid. Very sharp and sweet at the same time. Seemingly simple, yet it transforms over time. The heady wonder of the black orchid. A perfume that should be born feminine but, in reality, it is a perfect unisex, given the contrast between the floral notes with other more opulent and earthy ones such as patchouli, in addition to chocolate, incense, spices, the originality of the truffle and many additional notes all well balanced. It is pretty feminine at first, but then it morphs into what I would call androgynous. There is masculinity that comes from the dark notes of patchouli, truffle, and black currant in this fragrance.
In contrast, the flowery notes of gardenia, orchid, and incense lend elegant femininity. It is unique how these incredibly dense and complex notes work together in a balanced way. You can smell the chocolate, truffle, patchouli, amber, spices, gardenia, and lush flowers all working in perfect harmony at the same time. This is such a complex fragrance that it features oriental undertones, chypre, and a hint of gourmand, all rolled into one.
The opening for me is an explosion of fruity and flowery accords, of lush ylang-ylang and white flowers, dewy gardenia, and above all jasmine, which is quickly accompanied by a slightly tropical, almost vanilla note. I readily get patchouli's seductive and dark characteristics, and the savory earthiness of the truffle shines through in the citrus top notes. An indolic whisper of white flowers lends its characteristic narcotic breath. Very warm and opulent from the start, but it doesn't have a démodé look; it is pretty timeless, I would say. There are subtle spice nuances and gourmand aspects to this top note. It is evidence for the sour notes, but the scent never becomes a citrus cologne. Orange, lemon, and bergamot add a fresh side. Still, the most considerable boost is the dark floral, with jasmine, gardenia, and hints of oleander, a flower rarely used in the perfumery, which gives a dark tone to the orchid, which gives the name to this creation.
Interestingly, I don't see myrrh listed, which is weird because of my nose. Honestly, it smells exactly like a myrrh and dark chocolate bomb. I love this smell. The opening is slightly medicinal, perhaps too earthy and unpleasant for some, but it wears off quickly. Overall, it has a very satisfying or comfortable presence.
But this doesn't last long. Immediately, the floral heart medley kicks off the show. Floral, but these are not innocent flowers. The truffle accord is well done, as it recalls the earthy and dirty smell of the real truffle. The chocolate vibe is present all the way, aided by not-so-clean and warm patchouli and dark cocoa. The gardenia feels milky and creamy, and the black currant adds a weird but delicious subterranean tartness to the whole orgy that takes place. I don't know what notes or chords give it the impression of Stilton or Roquefort blue cheese, but I clearly smell the mold that gives the blue cheese its characteristic aroma every now and then. Don't worry because it doesn't smell like cheese; what I perceive is moldy.
After the initial crunchy impression, Black Orchid slowly settles into the spicy floral supported by the base of creamy woods and vanilla. When it dries, I get a soft and complex development, similar to patchouli with orchid and lotus; it's a reasonably smooth and elegant blend, and the fruity aspects really shine at this stage. I'm surprised how much amber and frankincense are emerging at this intermediate stage, and my skin brings out those notes a lot. Midway through this stage, the chocolate has really gone up. The bottom is soft but powerful. Mostly I get earthy chocolate patchouli mixed with a vanilla flower arrangement. The earthy, musky smell also comes from the moist truffle, which reminds me of fresh fruit, including blackberries. But it never falls into the typical fruity-floral category as it always remains quite shady and earthy and then dries into dark, woody vanilla.
Black Orchid is a borderline niche. From start to finish, it is complex, sensual, forbidden, and reminiscent of a bygone era. It is a spicy scent and, despite having vanilla and chocolate, it never evolves into a gourmand. It has a floral opening but quickly becomes darker and more mysterious with an almost medicinal nod. This combination of notes is rare, and it is not subtle for this. It will require attention wherever you go. All ingredients blend perfectly and guarantee the perfect result of a high-class perfume that is absolutely not taken for granted. Black Orchid definitely weaves some retro elements into its composition, yet it remains a modern oriental, replacing animalic screams with the murmur of delicious woody vanilla. It is the perfect accessory for a gentleman for a formal event on a crisp autumn evening. I find it glorious! I live in Italy, and we are almost out of winter here right now, and Black Orchid really shines on the coldest days. Overall, I love it, and it's certainly not for the summer for me; it's a powerful scent and would probably be a little cloying on a hot sunny day. I will definitely wear it during the winter and autumn. Some people have asked me what I was wearing long after wearing it when I could barely smell a scent on my skin. The chocolate sandalwood gourmand is really lovely, always with that accord of vanilla and coconut that lingers slightly in the background. In my final word, you may not like it initially, but it is tremendously addictive. So, the moment you fall in love with it, you will never be separated from it. You will need more and more. It has a rich, decadent smell, which is definitely the vibe I was looking for. I think this would appeal to people who love gourmand perfumes and heavier, darker and older oriental classics. Dark, sexy, dirty, edgy stuff. He is one of the most deliciously dirty gourmands that will make many flee, and many will ask for more.
I base the review on a 100ml bottle I have owned since March 2022.