or why Tom Ford wants us to believe that, in his opinion, women like the smell of sweaty testicles.
Before I am accused of any form of olfkatorischer perversity, I would like to point out that the above statement is based on an interview with Tom Ford by New York Magazine entitled "Tom Ford After Sex" from 2007 (May 18, 2007). There has been enough written about Tom Ford about sex in recent years. Anyone who has followed Tom Ford's career will notice that Tom Ford has always consciously used sexuality or "sex", whatever Mr. Ford understands by it, flirted and advertised, in a very striking way. Be it during his time with Gucci, think of the scandal advertising of 2003, or the already very primitive and striking sexist advertising for this fragrance, staged and photographed by Terry Richardson. Now one may think and judge as one wants, the goal of greatest attention from the point of view of marketing has been achieved. By the way, the photo campaign brought the fragrance to my attention for the first time in autumn 2007. Based on the very interesting interview in the above-mentioned issue of New York Magazine (available in the online archive), you might wonder why Mr. Ford believes that women want to smell like sweaty testicles (I assume he's talking about the scent Black Orchid) and what this means in reverse for his first men's scent, especially measured against the scandal campaign. At this point, custom and decency forbid speculating about whether Tom Ford For Men was created with the claim and assumption that men want to smell like [...] and whether this should be suggested by campaign technology.
Now let's leave the Ford´schen Dirty-Talk at page and dedicate ourselves to the fragrance itself. Because despite all the sexual coquetry I find it incredibly wearable and grandiose. We are talking about a Tom Ford fragrance, which I would like to interpret as a kind of "door opener" into the world of the Private Blend series. He didn't make it with me, though, because as much as I like Tom Ford (I find him somehow "funny" and extremely elegant), I can only start with a few scents from the Private Blend range. Apart from the fact that Ford's pricing policy is ridiculously high, I have to admit that I like to wear his famous Cardigan from James Bond a lot of comfort for my life and had to have him at all costs (sometimes you are a marketing victim). Back to the scent. What Tom Ford offers us men here under his name is for me one of the best men's fragrances ever. Now, this is not meant to be a hymn of praise, but a serious comment and therefore I would now like to give a sufficient explanation. Tom Ford For Men is first and foremost a boring mainstream fragrance of his time. The scents promise classic citric-woody boredom for men over thirty. The market really hasn't waited for this to happen. But far from it, because what begins as an expectation of citric-woody boredom quickly ends in the impression that one has taken a completely different path here. Tom Ford For Men opens with plenty of citrus notes, but these are not bitingly tangy, but rather warm and naturally sweet. Especially the combination of bergamot and mandarin, which is very oily and ripe, combined with a prominent basil note makes the beginning of the fragrance very interesting. This very basil note is so wonderfully green, aromatic and spicy that one might think one has a tub of basil in front of one's nose and a bowl of all kinds of citrus fruits to the right and left. Whoever thinks of Pesto here is wrong, rather one could describe the impression as a "smoothie". But Tom Ford wouldn't be so obsessed with sex if he didn't give the scent one, I apologize for the Anglicism, "dirty-vibe". After thirty minutes at the latest, the top note clears the way for a wonderful, slightly animal and sweet-spicy mixture of pepper and tobacco accompanied by orange blossom.
This mixture works a little, I would like to say "slightly sweaty" as if one had put a light "dirty" veil over the notes. This is also evident after about an hour, when the scent, on my skin, develops light notes of fresh tobacco (like smelling a pack of cigarettes). Note that it is not a tobacco scent, but these warm, sweet-spicy notes of tobacco make the scent very interesting. If one would like to take up the topic of sex again at all, one could speak of a Ford´schen interpretation at this point, because the fragrance becomes more "physical" but still carries a good portion of the fresh citrus and flower notes with it. Truly no animalistic bomb like a primeval Couros, but something makes the scent appear "animalistic" in the sense of physical. I suppose this impression comes from the Cypriol (Nagarmotha), which is described as earthy and balsamic exotic, and from the Tasmanian false elm, which is said to give a particularly good honey. So if we have Tom Ford's olfactory interpretation of sexuality in front of us, it's hard for me to judge, the scent just smells too good. As far as durability is concerned, we're not dealing with a quickie here either, because on my skin the scent loosely lasts eight hours with rather light sillage.
What can we say in conclusion about the first men's fragrance from Tom Ford? Surely it is a very solid and pleasant men's fragrance that can be worn by a wide age group on all occasions, as long as they take place on the "cooler" days. In addition, the fragrance skilfully balances on the fine line between animal notes, fresh-sweet spicy top notes and a warm base. Olfactorically speaking, it doesn't take much courage to wear this fragrance, it is a safe bench and simply smells damn good. And what remains of Tom Ford's favorite theme sex? Well, most likely the scandalous campaign and the alienating ideas of Mr. Ford regarding human sex pheromones and their conception in his first two fragrances.
PS: I recommend anyone who wants to learn a little about Tom Ford, his concept of clothing, style and fragrances to read the interview in New York Magazine.