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Turned too soon in time travel....
I think, the conscious olfactory socialization, speak the "calibration" on preferred fragrances, happens with many in adolescence. Girls become interesting, the first intoxication, boundaries and freedoms are explored, and because of firsts, it is tried to underline the still unpolished own personality with fragrances.
... then something has probably gone wrong with me. My youth took place in the 1990s, with the many fresh, aquatic, sweetish, increasingly unisex-aligned perfumes of this decade, however, I can do almost nothing. I'm more comfortable with tart, dark green, "classic" scents - oakmoss, galbanum, patchouli, herbs; perfumes of the 1960s to 1980s with rough edges.
Tom Ford's "Noir Anthracite" does a lot right in this regard.
The fragrance starts peppery and minimally spicy, with subtle citrus sprinkles. Underneath is already clearly wonderful herb-green galbanum. Galbanum determines then also for the next few hours the further course of the fragrance, supplemented by dark floral notes and pepper remnants, a little smoky it's also. Much development is not offered until the base, a wonderful sandalwood patchouli melange.
"Noir Anthracite" is for me a clear reminiscence of classic men's fragrances of past decades. I have long puzzled why Tom Ford does not convince me 100% here. The fragrance leaves but extensively trodden sweet or fresh fragrance paths of recent years, so to speak, "back to the roots"? The solution: "Noir Anthracite" is too smooth, too well-designed. The above-mentioned classic men's fragrances - "Polo", "Bogart", "One Man Show", "Yatagan" times as examples - start with a wild potpourri, the individual fragrance notes must first pluck a few minutes until the fragrance becomes a fine experience. This sometimes cacophonous superstructure is missing from "Noir Anthracite", making it a bit boring. One knows directly from the beginning, where the olfactory journey goes.
A fine fragrance, no question. But sufficiently good for my collection? I am still undecided...