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06/27/2020
MonsieurTest
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MonsieurTest
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Aroma chemists find plum-violet amber blue gold. But how are perfume names created?
If violets are considered to be the little man's roses, plums can be seen as the down-to-earth sisters of the more ethereal and sensitive peaches. If you swallow that and read on, we'd like to explain 'The Scent of Gold' as a noble Italian gourmand answer to Mitsouko. Their filigree Art Nouveau flacon has been transformed into a solid metal container, the delicate moss peach into a powerful cinnamon-violet plum, and the finely woven Guerlain base into a stable, gourmand amber vanilla. Comparisons are helpful. They profile any objects and sensory impressions better than solo portraits. But this comparison was far-fetched (don't have any alternative plums in the house or brain...).
We are dealing here with a sweet, but reasonably well-articulated plum-violet & wood scent. The top notes and heart notes are slightly synthetic and therefore rather nice than beautiful. But its base is a warm, creamy tobacco-patchouli-amber vanilla. Which makes this fragrance altogether a (even for non-sugar spoiled perfumes) well wearable one. This Scent of Gold is therefore a possible, better substitute for Empörio Armanis '(Not) Stronger with you'; for that unfortunately often encountered, contourless, flabby sweetness
So, now the children are in bed, driven out of the text by sweet-bashing and awkward phrasing. So let's get to the exciting question for advanced and insiders: How do the new perfumes actually get their names? We sometimes ask ourselves this question. And one wonders: Do the manufacturers throw dice? Do they employ house poets? Do they use hallucinogenic drugs?
With new brands, it was often enough to add the name of the brand plus a gender: e.g. Horst pour Homme, or Woglinde Women. Untimely, the manufacturers still limit themselves to 2 genders, whereas 57 of them are now in circulation. We expect to see some innovative gender niche names here in the coming years (Rainer Maria for those converted from X to Y, Kim-Leo for undecided, etc.).
But for now to the state of affairs and the results of our research on the secret files (behind closed curtains) before the bottle baptisms. How do names like this one come about? The smell of gold? Is that when the inflation-phobic perfumer spent weeks sniffing at his gold bars in the cellar and then composed this plum-cinnamon-violet amber orgy? No. It wasn't like that!
If you do research in Rüsselsheim in the well-known sanatorium for deserving perfumers or those exhausted by nose-burnthrough, or if you occasionally listen in the Fragrances-Bar in Berlin's Ritz-Carlton at the regulars' table of highly paid perfume creators, what the creators of the perfumes tell about fragrance baptisms, you will learn - amazing things. Monstrous. You'd never guess it without research
Fragrance composers prefer to name their works after perfume authors
Because their texts are - logical! - their home cooking, a must read for all perfumers. Comments, statements and blogs, even the most minimal aperture nuances and flacon positioning of the photographers, adore and fear the perfume creators. Parfumo words carry weight here! Punctuation mistakes or photo colour nuances decide about fame and money or EdeKa (end of career). That's why perfumers often want to name their freshly hedged, nameless babies after the most important perfumo/a/s. The history of these successful and unsuccessful dedications is long; here are just tiny episodes from it.
When Caron planned her second men's fragrance as a classic, it was soon clear that it could only be named after our two-legged fragrance encyclopaedia with the face of Hölderlin, Yatagan. The well-deserved Turandot is the dedicatee of several fragrances. Often, however, according to the never-ending complaints in Rüsselsheim and the Fragrances Bar, planned dedications fail. Leimbacher and Pudelbonzo should have been dedicated dozens of fragrances; the same applies to the mischievous Hasi and the neroli and linguistic genius Fittleworth. But for years now, the marketing people have always intervened and prevented these more than deserved name donations with their veto: too bulky. Allegedly not marketable for the people of the stammers and moans.
FvSpee, grandmaster of long commentary and fine nuances, has - nobody knew how until now - become the namesake of a leading detergent brand in the East. There is no doubt that these extremely useful products smell very decent and solid. But it is still unexplored, which marketing genius was able to make the old maxim of the eastern economy, 'overtaking without catching up' come true for once. Guerlain like Marly, monastery water manufacturers and niche perfumers came too late with their christening wishes. The name was already taken. Since FvSpee, with its own Christian humility, is not vain enough to sing the praises of the millions of products bearing his name in detail here, we have the desideratum of olfactory research.
Of course, according to our research, the most considered dedicatee is our dear colleague Gold. Her fame outshines everything. Hardly any perfume house has yet decided not to dedicate a tribute to her. Hardly a well-assorted perfume cabinet is not at the same time a shrine to her homage. Parfumo soon boasts 1000 fragrances that carry her name around the world. These statistics (not trophies or perfumo points) show what counts in the end. Speaking with Hölderlin's 'souvenir': "But what remains, donate bottle baptisms".
I like to wear Trussardo's 'Scent of Gold' occasionally (in weather conditions up to 25.3°C) - and, as befits the occasion, I always think of the meritorious writing and educational work that the honored dedicatee has been doing for years (but also many others here, who for many reasons were not considered by the perfume creators and distributors by name).
By the way, I would have suspected that Gold personally (who of course can't and doesn't want to accept the hundreds of dedication requests ALL) finds this scent a bit too sweet and too synthetic. That, as everyone knows, she prefers roses to violets. But as I descended to the deepest statement about 'Scent of Gold' during my research on the fragrance and the mysterious naming process, I found Gold's early statement about the fragrance at the bottom of this page, in the deepest mine gallery. Which we are happy to promote to the top again here:
"Patchouli, cinnamon, plums, lots of amber vanilla, not new, but harmonious, soft, cuddly, enveloping. My candidate for the winter?"
Finally, the big question remains: What did the dear gold wear in the winter of 2019 and 2020? Was the candidate Trussardi - rated an astonishing 8.5 in her primaries - elected (often)?
Edit: Inquiries now want to know if 'Mouchoir de Monsieur' is a dedication of one of his favourite houses to Monsieur Teste's handkerchief. No, he's not that old yet. Some younger dedicatory fragrances ('Bravo Monsieur' by Ganso, or 'Monsieur Dada 18' by the Krigler house, and also 'Monsieur le Prince Elegant' by Princesse Marina de Bourbon) can be understood as dedication requests. Because of other criticism and homage obligations I have not yet come to taste these dedication waters. And I ask myself at the princess, if behind it is the oldest high nobility or a fraudulent Bourbon-Whisky..
We are dealing here with a sweet, but reasonably well-articulated plum-violet & wood scent. The top notes and heart notes are slightly synthetic and therefore rather nice than beautiful. But its base is a warm, creamy tobacco-patchouli-amber vanilla. Which makes this fragrance altogether a (even for non-sugar spoiled perfumes) well wearable one. This Scent of Gold is therefore a possible, better substitute for Empörio Armanis '(Not) Stronger with you'; for that unfortunately often encountered, contourless, flabby sweetness
So, now the children are in bed, driven out of the text by sweet-bashing and awkward phrasing. So let's get to the exciting question for advanced and insiders: How do the new perfumes actually get their names? We sometimes ask ourselves this question. And one wonders: Do the manufacturers throw dice? Do they employ house poets? Do they use hallucinogenic drugs?
With new brands, it was often enough to add the name of the brand plus a gender: e.g. Horst pour Homme, or Woglinde Women. Untimely, the manufacturers still limit themselves to 2 genders, whereas 57 of them are now in circulation. We expect to see some innovative gender niche names here in the coming years (Rainer Maria for those converted from X to Y, Kim-Leo for undecided, etc.).
But for now to the state of affairs and the results of our research on the secret files (behind closed curtains) before the bottle baptisms. How do names like this one come about? The smell of gold? Is that when the inflation-phobic perfumer spent weeks sniffing at his gold bars in the cellar and then composed this plum-cinnamon-violet amber orgy? No. It wasn't like that!
If you do research in Rüsselsheim in the well-known sanatorium for deserving perfumers or those exhausted by nose-burnthrough, or if you occasionally listen in the Fragrances-Bar in Berlin's Ritz-Carlton at the regulars' table of highly paid perfume creators, what the creators of the perfumes tell about fragrance baptisms, you will learn - amazing things. Monstrous. You'd never guess it without research
Fragrance composers prefer to name their works after perfume authors
Because their texts are - logical! - their home cooking, a must read for all perfumers. Comments, statements and blogs, even the most minimal aperture nuances and flacon positioning of the photographers, adore and fear the perfume creators. Parfumo words carry weight here! Punctuation mistakes or photo colour nuances decide about fame and money or EdeKa (end of career). That's why perfumers often want to name their freshly hedged, nameless babies after the most important perfumo/a/s. The history of these successful and unsuccessful dedications is long; here are just tiny episodes from it.
When Caron planned her second men's fragrance as a classic, it was soon clear that it could only be named after our two-legged fragrance encyclopaedia with the face of Hölderlin, Yatagan. The well-deserved Turandot is the dedicatee of several fragrances. Often, however, according to the never-ending complaints in Rüsselsheim and the Fragrances Bar, planned dedications fail. Leimbacher and Pudelbonzo should have been dedicated dozens of fragrances; the same applies to the mischievous Hasi and the neroli and linguistic genius Fittleworth. But for years now, the marketing people have always intervened and prevented these more than deserved name donations with their veto: too bulky. Allegedly not marketable for the people of the stammers and moans.
FvSpee, grandmaster of long commentary and fine nuances, has - nobody knew how until now - become the namesake of a leading detergent brand in the East. There is no doubt that these extremely useful products smell very decent and solid. But it is still unexplored, which marketing genius was able to make the old maxim of the eastern economy, 'overtaking without catching up' come true for once. Guerlain like Marly, monastery water manufacturers and niche perfumers came too late with their christening wishes. The name was already taken. Since FvSpee, with its own Christian humility, is not vain enough to sing the praises of the millions of products bearing his name in detail here, we have the desideratum of olfactory research.
Of course, according to our research, the most considered dedicatee is our dear colleague Gold. Her fame outshines everything. Hardly any perfume house has yet decided not to dedicate a tribute to her. Hardly a well-assorted perfume cabinet is not at the same time a shrine to her homage. Parfumo soon boasts 1000 fragrances that carry her name around the world. These statistics (not trophies or perfumo points) show what counts in the end. Speaking with Hölderlin's 'souvenir': "But what remains, donate bottle baptisms".
I like to wear Trussardo's 'Scent of Gold' occasionally (in weather conditions up to 25.3°C) - and, as befits the occasion, I always think of the meritorious writing and educational work that the honored dedicatee has been doing for years (but also many others here, who for many reasons were not considered by the perfume creators and distributors by name).
By the way, I would have suspected that Gold personally (who of course can't and doesn't want to accept the hundreds of dedication requests ALL) finds this scent a bit too sweet and too synthetic. That, as everyone knows, she prefers roses to violets. But as I descended to the deepest statement about 'Scent of Gold' during my research on the fragrance and the mysterious naming process, I found Gold's early statement about the fragrance at the bottom of this page, in the deepest mine gallery. Which we are happy to promote to the top again here:
"Patchouli, cinnamon, plums, lots of amber vanilla, not new, but harmonious, soft, cuddly, enveloping. My candidate for the winter?"
Finally, the big question remains: What did the dear gold wear in the winter of 2019 and 2020? Was the candidate Trussardi - rated an astonishing 8.5 in her primaries - elected (often)?
Edit: Inquiries now want to know if 'Mouchoir de Monsieur' is a dedication of one of his favourite houses to Monsieur Teste's handkerchief. No, he's not that old yet. Some younger dedicatory fragrances ('Bravo Monsieur' by Ganso, or 'Monsieur Dada 18' by the Krigler house, and also 'Monsieur le Prince Elegant' by Princesse Marina de Bourbon) can be understood as dedication requests. Because of other criticism and homage obligations I have not yet come to taste these dedication waters. And I ask myself at the princess, if behind it is the oldest high nobility or a fraudulent Bourbon-Whisky..
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Apprentice8
KimJong
Elysium
