04/01/2021
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Neukölln 24 - Un soupçon de rien
Gunpowder Cologne from the house of Urban Scents is, so much should be said in advance, a beautiful, feathery, extremely valuable, even distinguished, spring and summer fragrance, whose test I can especially at this time of year every friend and every friend of such waters unhesitatingly recommend to the heart.
It is one of the fragrances that have the term 'Cologne' explicitly in the proper name to make it clear which style, which olfactory genre awaits the wearer, but then make it clear by the classifying subtitle that it is in terms of fragrance concentration just not a Eau de Cologne should be. So with "Sunday Cologne Eau de Parfum" by Byredo, an excellent fragrance, which is also in my collection, and so also with this, from the fragrance direction quite differently knitted, "Gunpowder Cologne Eau de Parfum" (on the picture at Parfumo is still "Eau de Toilette" on the bottle, but that no longer applies to the newer batches).
In addition, Gunpowder Cologne also belongs to the group of (this seems to me just a modern thing) light summer fragrances that gain their specific freshness from a suggestion of tea. In this case, it is Gunpowder tea, a Chinese tea whose leaves or leaf tips are dried, sold and brewed in the form of small balls (reminiscent of gunpowder) rolled. Oolong tea is usually prepared this way, a slightly smoky intermediate between green and black tea. If you're not yet familiar with these tea fresh waters, you'll find sas perfect testseht in the five-part (by five different perfumers) Bulghari series Eau parfumée au thé...(bleu/vert/blanc/noir/rouge). This one is dedicated to black, green and white tea, redbush tea (rouge) and oolong (bleu). I like the bleu variety there created by Daniela Andrier the best, it has found its way into my collection as well. Each oolong is again this Urban Scents one here with lavender added. The much cheaper Bulgari, however, is much smokier and more distinctive, and features violet and shiso in a completely different direction once again. The fragrance presented here, on the other hand, is infinitely more delicate and delicate, less smoky and and clearly more citrusy.
In my statement, which is already about two years old, I had the scent as "Bright citrus, perfect green tea and a touch of bubbly. Cheerful, sparkling, endearing," and I'm sticking to that. To the extent that lavender and musk are indicated in the fragrance notes, these components are at best glimpsed by me; they do not play a supporting role. At its core, I perceive an almost supernaturally serene bergamot-tea duo that, in typical Marie Le Fèbvre fashion, has been lovingly worked out in all its details without excesses, clamour or extravagance, and polished until it sparkles like a brilliant. The original fragrance note "light woods" plausibly coincides with my scent impressions, interestingly at the beginning rather than the end (where woody notes usually appear). Maybe it goes a little in the direction of cedar, by the way, yes, actually, so a pine plank is not a noble wood, but still smells good.
Without wanting to discriminate against the other (also worth reading - and all of excellent authors, so I go today in distinguished company) reviews, I recommend to those who are curious about this fragrance, especially the formidable comments of the Parma and Gaukeleyas to the heart, which, in my view, this wonderful fragrance particularly well.
If I Gaukeleya, which I do extremely reluctantly, at two points can not quite follow, then it is once the flash white T-shirt association (there would rather aldehydic, musky compositions like, nomen est omen, Chemise Blanche, impose themselves on me) and secondly the characterization as 'considerable durable'.
While I generally forgive Urban Scents fragrances for almost anything in terms of underperformance, firstly because I find that a long shelf life doesn't fit the floaty-light DNA of the whole brand, and secondly because I'm inclined to forgive the master anything anyway. I even put up with the minimal longevity of the even more expensive In Between (and even bought that fragrance). In this case, however, I've crossed the line; the scent is really just a hint of nothing on my skin: to achieve a real fragrance effect, I'd have to spray it twenty or thirty times, and that seems inadequate at 180 euros per 100 ml. Therefore, I award, although professed Urban-Scent-Aficionado, half a point less than Parma and Gaukeleya and will probably not buy the gunpowder.
Admittedly, Good Friday is still upon us, so from a Christian point of view the objection might be raised that it is too early for Easter congratulations. But I would counter that it is precisely a Christian certainty that the Good Friday abyss will be followed by the joyful Easter message, so I would still like to take the liberty of wishing everyone Happy Easter already today. The chocolate eggs, on the other hand, according to the good old custom, are really only to be eaten on Sunday, when the fasting has ended and the resurrection has been announced!
It is one of the fragrances that have the term 'Cologne' explicitly in the proper name to make it clear which style, which olfactory genre awaits the wearer, but then make it clear by the classifying subtitle that it is in terms of fragrance concentration just not a Eau de Cologne should be. So with "Sunday Cologne Eau de Parfum" by Byredo, an excellent fragrance, which is also in my collection, and so also with this, from the fragrance direction quite differently knitted, "Gunpowder Cologne Eau de Parfum" (on the picture at Parfumo is still "Eau de Toilette" on the bottle, but that no longer applies to the newer batches).
In addition, Gunpowder Cologne also belongs to the group of (this seems to me just a modern thing) light summer fragrances that gain their specific freshness from a suggestion of tea. In this case, it is Gunpowder tea, a Chinese tea whose leaves or leaf tips are dried, sold and brewed in the form of small balls (reminiscent of gunpowder) rolled. Oolong tea is usually prepared this way, a slightly smoky intermediate between green and black tea. If you're not yet familiar with these tea fresh waters, you'll find sas perfect testseht in the five-part (by five different perfumers) Bulghari series Eau parfumée au thé...(bleu/vert/blanc/noir/rouge). This one is dedicated to black, green and white tea, redbush tea (rouge) and oolong (bleu). I like the bleu variety there created by Daniela Andrier the best, it has found its way into my collection as well. Each oolong is again this Urban Scents one here with lavender added. The much cheaper Bulgari, however, is much smokier and more distinctive, and features violet and shiso in a completely different direction once again. The fragrance presented here, on the other hand, is infinitely more delicate and delicate, less smoky and and clearly more citrusy.
In my statement, which is already about two years old, I had the scent as "Bright citrus, perfect green tea and a touch of bubbly. Cheerful, sparkling, endearing," and I'm sticking to that. To the extent that lavender and musk are indicated in the fragrance notes, these components are at best glimpsed by me; they do not play a supporting role. At its core, I perceive an almost supernaturally serene bergamot-tea duo that, in typical Marie Le Fèbvre fashion, has been lovingly worked out in all its details without excesses, clamour or extravagance, and polished until it sparkles like a brilliant. The original fragrance note "light woods" plausibly coincides with my scent impressions, interestingly at the beginning rather than the end (where woody notes usually appear). Maybe it goes a little in the direction of cedar, by the way, yes, actually, so a pine plank is not a noble wood, but still smells good.
Without wanting to discriminate against the other (also worth reading - and all of excellent authors, so I go today in distinguished company) reviews, I recommend to those who are curious about this fragrance, especially the formidable comments of the Parma and Gaukeleyas to the heart, which, in my view, this wonderful fragrance particularly well.
If I Gaukeleya, which I do extremely reluctantly, at two points can not quite follow, then it is once the flash white T-shirt association (there would rather aldehydic, musky compositions like, nomen est omen, Chemise Blanche, impose themselves on me) and secondly the characterization as 'considerable durable'.
While I generally forgive Urban Scents fragrances for almost anything in terms of underperformance, firstly because I find that a long shelf life doesn't fit the floaty-light DNA of the whole brand, and secondly because I'm inclined to forgive the master anything anyway. I even put up with the minimal longevity of the even more expensive In Between (and even bought that fragrance). In this case, however, I've crossed the line; the scent is really just a hint of nothing on my skin: to achieve a real fragrance effect, I'd have to spray it twenty or thirty times, and that seems inadequate at 180 euros per 100 ml. Therefore, I award, although professed Urban-Scent-Aficionado, half a point less than Parma and Gaukeleya and will probably not buy the gunpowder.
Admittedly, Good Friday is still upon us, so from a Christian point of view the objection might be raised that it is too early for Easter congratulations. But I would counter that it is precisely a Christian certainty that the Good Friday abyss will be followed by the joyful Easter message, so I would still like to take the liberty of wishing everyone Happy Easter already today. The chocolate eggs, on the other hand, according to the good old custom, are really only to be eaten on Sunday, when the fasting has ended and the resurrection has been announced!
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