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The 600€ leather benchmark
We start today very striking. 600€ for a fragrance. Some people would buy a used car or go on holiday for that. Can that be worth a fragrance that has clearly been inspired by a cheap alternative in the form of Knize Ten? I think we'll find out together today.
Xerjoff as a house should be a household name to everyone by now. No other brand has established itself in recent years in the high-priced niche area as the brand from Italy. One wants to score me exclusive and luxurious fragrances, high-quality processed flacons and prestige.
In different collections (Shooting Stars, Oud Stars, Stonelabel etc.) one offers thereby for each taste and also each budget the suitable smell. And while the Alexandria II could inspire me with its soft and warm charisma, that looks so far at the rest of the portfolio of Xerjoff different. So far, no fragrance has been able to really knock my socks off. Either too sweet, too playful or simply too inconsequential, many of the scents I tested seemed to be. A fragrance that I had but always on my watch list, was the Homme.
When I was therefore 2 weeks ago in Berlin and visited the perfume salon near the Kurfürstendamm, I took the opportunity and tried the Homme. On the day I left the store only with an Etruscan Water and Bowmakers, but the decision to buy the Homme stood firm.
Disclaimer. This fragrance was kindly provided to me by absolutely NO ONE. Why this note? Currently on Youtube I have the feeling that everyone is raffling either a Naxos or 10 bottles of Erba Pura and the name Xerjoff as well as that of the German distributor is mentioned in every second sentence. I poor sausage had to buy the fragrance myself and spend my own earned money on it. Anyway, there is no one behind me with 2 boxes of bottles of Xerjoff that can be raffled off, and in doing so, certainly influences one or the other perception of fragrances unconsciously.
The Homme was created in 2007 and comes from the creative pen of Jacques Flori, who was responsible for many of the fragrances of the Shooting Stars series and also created some fragrances for Etro.
The Homme starts on my skin tart, fresh with a fair amount of bitter-tart citrusy tones. I would describe the lemon and ginger as setting the tone here in the opening. The cumin adds some bite to the fresher notes, but never drifts into "sweaty" or musty compared to cumin. This fresh kick doesn't linger long and then the tone-setting component of Homme asserts itself. The leather. Here a very clean, not worn leather that is nevertheless very sharply outlined and absolutely authentic. Not in the form of an old horse saddle, for example, but rather a really expensive leather sofa or the interior of a vintage car. At this stage of the fragrance, there is then a note that absolutely fascinates me and for me is the charm of Homme. We have here an almost viscous note that reminds me of motor oil. As if you were standing in a garage where a sports car is on the lifting platform. From a distance you can smell the smell of drained oil. Heavy, black and in places somewhat reminiscent of petroleum. Those who know the garage of Comme des Garcons will find a similar "workshop" DNA here. The one from Homme is even more authentic though and seems rougher and gruff. In the later drydown, the leather then gets a soapy component to the side. The dirt of the workshop is here also olfactory "cleaned" and the leather is somewhat tamed. So the fragrance then remains until the end. An absolutely high-quality and washed with soap leather that still has rough edges, but the force and the dirt of the first phase left behind.
The durability of Homme leaves nothing to be desired. The first 3 hours, the fragrance radiates quite strong and potent from the skin and only then becomes a little quieter and then starts to become skin tight. I could perceive the fragrance even 10 hours still without problems.
The bottle is on typical Xerjoff level. Very high quality and beautiful in the hand. Here as all fragrances of the Stonelabel collection with a stone on the front. Sprayer usual and very good Xerjoff quality. Fine dosable and also "half" sprays are possible.
With the packaging, Xerjoff is also not lumpen. Here you feel at any time that you hold a luxury product in your hand.
The price of 600 € is an announcement. At 6 € / ml stops with me the friendship. One gets the fragrance currently in the 50ml variant for about 320€. I have paid for my 100ml bottle just 440€. I think the RRP of Xerjoff is exorbitant. But also a Rolex for 8000€ is overpriced. We are here in the high-price segment where the price / performance ratio actually no longer plays a role. Who wants the fragrance, must clearly reach into the pocket. Whether one is worth it, only everyone can decide for themselves.
An alternative would certainly be the fragrance, which was the godfather for the Homme. The Knize Ten is relatively similar to the Homme at first glance. Again, we have an absolutely striking and masculine leather scent broken up by soapy aspects. And now comes the same old story. The Xerjoff just smells more premium from the composition (and that's not even referring to the individual components). Here, everything just seems more coherent, better intertwined and especially this "workshop phase" of the fragrance with the smell of motor oil or petroleum is missing the Knize Ten. But if you don't want to / or can't afford the Homme, you'll also do well with the Knize Ten. The same applies to the Russian Juchten by Harry Lehmann, which goes like the Knize Ten also in this direction of soapy leather.
As a conclusion, it remains for me to say that I have found in Homme the leather scent that I have always secretly been looking for. As a fan of tart, strongly masculine fragrances, the Homme meets all the requirements of a fragrance for me. The "dirty" engine oil or petroleum note in the middle of the fragrance is then for me as a Fahrenheit fan the cherry on the icing.