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Mamluk, Jackson Pollock or Beehive?
OMG, WTF and yippie - it's all about me. I think I finally found a suitable successor for my Oud Wood and this from a completely unexpected direction. The Alexandria II was already one of my favourite candidates, but now it is this Mamluk who has surprised and convinced me completely unprepared... simply OMG and WTF.
Now, of course, I'm glad that this fragrance was warmly recommended to me by a well-known "Oud Stars" connoisseur and that the corresponding bottling was sold to me. What a happy coincidence and what a great experience. Because I would probably have tested a few other things before I would actually have chosen this one. The reviews also show how divided opinion is on the fragrance, as it is already described as very oriental and animalistic. First of all, I belong to the category that doesn't hear anything very animalistic in this fragrance. OK, at the beginning something tries to make itself noticeable, but in the course of the fragrance development I never have the feeling to smell unwashed, dirty or even in the direction of urine. For me it is almost astonishing that I now find this kind of scent so much celebrating and so wearable. For me it is even very suitable for everyday use and pleasant, but I also have very strong smelling and tolerant colleagues who are already relatively hardened by my tests. Similar to the Civet, I am painless on the road and wear it even at 20 degrees - so what if I do, because I do.
But Mamluk is once again one of the fragrances that I can't quite take apart, because the mixture is so complex and deep. On my skin, all the notes combine so easily without showing any negative qualities. It is also so soft and sensual, dark and then again light.
As I have already written above, the scent tries to let something out at the beginning, which I do not perceive completely, but my wife does. According to her description something musty and sour. From hearsay (without ever having had the scents under your nose) it seems to remind you of descriptions of the Kouros. Strange that I do not notice this chord very much and that there are no disturbing elements for me. There is also a light and subtle sweetness, which I associate with vanilla rather than caramel.
But then I hear the further development and the status quo and this is very flattering for my nose. Even if I cannot break down everything, I try to reproduce the notes. The mixture, which sticks so softly to my skin, definitely contains oud, benzoin, musk and osmanthus. No notes that play in the foreground and balance each other so well that the musk doesn't do its work too dominant. Vanilla and amber I could also detect in light strokes, which give the whole thing a great depth.
But why Jackson Pollock in the headline? Well, it's the uniqueness of the scent. Like the famous drip-painting, it seems so trivially elegant thrown together and then so perfectly creative smeared. A work of art.
Gradually, vanilla, resinous notes and osmanthus/musk develop more to the fore and are embraced by fine smoke. This already smells really good and unique. The thought is right that it smells very oriental and is definitely a variation of the common oud combinations.
I still have to report an addition for the further development, because after three hours such light chords of fresh, warm sawdust came up. Somehow cool :-)
As usual with Xerjoff, durability and sillage are in a league of their own, which are already just below the firmament. For the first two hours you can see whole clouds behind you and proudly present the applied scent to your surroundings. Nothing else I hoped for, because this is what this great scent deserves. Until the fourth or fifth hour the wearer himself is still enclosed in a mist that is clearly audible. After that, the fragrance doesn't throw its notes into the free world quite as intensively anymore, but continues to convince with a very great durability, which is in no way inferior.
P.S. My experiences in this regard are based on the test with a TZ and the rather soft mist of spraying art that goes with it. As soon as a bottle should arrive at my place, I will adapt the addition.
I was definitely so turned on by that smell. It sniffs on my skin extremely horny, tolerable and ends in my perception the all kinds of rose ouds. Seldom have I fallen in love with a fragrance so quickly, seldom have I got the urge to buy so quickly and seldom have I had a fragrance that is seen so divided.
It's amazing that my selection of bottlings is currently connected with such a good hand and a lot of good scents land with me. It is very surprising that so many samples were able to record high scores and that some of them inspired me.
I take my hat off to the recommendation and especially to the scent, THANK YOU for making it under my nose. You won't regret it, because I'll thank you with a place in my collection.
Above all, this is where my search for an Oud Wood successor ends, which has presented me with some unique fragrances. Through these many new experiences have been added, new insights and discoveries. I have enjoyed it.
Also many thanks to the perfume users, who have followed my comments and made suggestions