08/27/2020
Yharnam79
63 Reviews
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Yharnam79
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Gentle brutality
Excursus in advance:
If I had gone by the ratings for this fragrance, I would most likely not even have tested it...
It's a good thing that I have been here for a few years and know better by now...
My introduction is really not intended to attack anyone, let alone instruct them.
But what is always beyond my understanding is why one tests and evaluates an oud-based fragrance and gets upset about the oud smell "which one generally doesn't like anyway"...
We are talking about a fragrance from the "OUD Stars" collection...!
So it should be absolutely no surprise that oud is also used here.
I, for one, hate neroli. But now that I know that this is purely a matter of taste, I don't feel the urge to test and evaluate all scents based on Neroli, only to mention again and again how caustic Neroli smells (to me)...
Neither do I accuse all nerolites of a would-be tendency to snobbery.
So why must I, as a wearer and lover, allow myself to assume that I only wear a fragrance in order to upgrade myself with its costliness as "special"?
Not to mention the "fact" that "everyone" around me thinks that I "haven't showered in weeks". But nobody dares to tell me that either...
I simply think that with all the subjectivity that such an evaluation brings with it, one should still pay attention to how (in the absence of a better and more appropriate word) "personal" one becomes.
Excursus end.
In short: whoever finds oud unpleasant or even fecal, should not have any fun with Mamluk either.
Mamluk shows a strong similarity to Ceylon, especially at the beginning.
And that is probably the biggest challenge.
But where Ceylon takes the harsher, more animalistic path, Mamluk goes in a completely different direction.
Paint-sweet, completely smeared with honey and slightly "urinesque" hits the top note, but becomes more accessible within minutes, softer and much, much softer.
And exactly at this point Mamluk also parted with the initially strong bond to Ceylon.
Mamluk is a brutal yet gentle fragrance.
Sounds paradoxical? It is! Br /> But in fact I have rarely, perhaps never experienced such a high quality oud. Or rather I mean such a skillful embedding of qulaitatively high quality oud.
Not counting Ceylon. He plays for me in the untouched big leagues
The character changes here from spraying on to early drydown from animal sweet-biting to soft-cuddly purring.
Grandiose "made" honey and oud are the main protagonists here, whereby I already think while writing that I do not do justice to the scent picture with it. Far too complex and skilfully coordinated and interwoven are the different components.
The honey-oud composition is surrounded and interspersed with benzoin, vanilla and a slightly smoky note. In the late course the oud even stays almost only in the background.
Animalistically it now appears at best still mini-minimal. Fecal not at all.
Both durability and yield are by the way far above average.
Mamluk is not one and does not want to be an oud club.
If one should try to summarize, one could possibly speak of a honey oud-benzoin, perhaps even vanilla-smoke scent.
Brutal is his appearance, butter-soft is his core.
It radiates gentle strength.
The calm after a violent desert storm.
If I had gone by the ratings for this fragrance, I would most likely not even have tested it...
It's a good thing that I have been here for a few years and know better by now...
My introduction is really not intended to attack anyone, let alone instruct them.
But what is always beyond my understanding is why one tests and evaluates an oud-based fragrance and gets upset about the oud smell "which one generally doesn't like anyway"...
We are talking about a fragrance from the "OUD Stars" collection...!
So it should be absolutely no surprise that oud is also used here.
I, for one, hate neroli. But now that I know that this is purely a matter of taste, I don't feel the urge to test and evaluate all scents based on Neroli, only to mention again and again how caustic Neroli smells (to me)...
Neither do I accuse all nerolites of a would-be tendency to snobbery.
So why must I, as a wearer and lover, allow myself to assume that I only wear a fragrance in order to upgrade myself with its costliness as "special"?
Not to mention the "fact" that "everyone" around me thinks that I "haven't showered in weeks". But nobody dares to tell me that either...
I simply think that with all the subjectivity that such an evaluation brings with it, one should still pay attention to how (in the absence of a better and more appropriate word) "personal" one becomes.
Excursus end.
In short: whoever finds oud unpleasant or even fecal, should not have any fun with Mamluk either.
Mamluk shows a strong similarity to Ceylon, especially at the beginning.
And that is probably the biggest challenge.
But where Ceylon takes the harsher, more animalistic path, Mamluk goes in a completely different direction.
Paint-sweet, completely smeared with honey and slightly "urinesque" hits the top note, but becomes more accessible within minutes, softer and much, much softer.
And exactly at this point Mamluk also parted with the initially strong bond to Ceylon.
Mamluk is a brutal yet gentle fragrance.
Sounds paradoxical? It is! Br /> But in fact I have rarely, perhaps never experienced such a high quality oud. Or rather I mean such a skillful embedding of qulaitatively high quality oud.
Not counting Ceylon. He plays for me in the untouched big leagues
The character changes here from spraying on to early drydown from animal sweet-biting to soft-cuddly purring.
Grandiose "made" honey and oud are the main protagonists here, whereby I already think while writing that I do not do justice to the scent picture with it. Far too complex and skilfully coordinated and interwoven are the different components.
The honey-oud composition is surrounded and interspersed with benzoin, vanilla and a slightly smoky note. In the late course the oud even stays almost only in the background.
Animalistically it now appears at best still mini-minimal. Fecal not at all.
Both durability and yield are by the way far above average.
Mamluk is not one and does not want to be an oud club.
If one should try to summarize, one could possibly speak of a honey oud-benzoin, perhaps even vanilla-smoke scent.
Brutal is his appearance, butter-soft is his core.
It radiates gentle strength.
The calm after a violent desert storm.
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