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09/13/2021
DerDefcon
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DerDefcon
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A fragrance twin of APOM? I'll just compare.
How good that there was an update here on parfumo.de and that the corresponding menu bar no longer speaks of "fragrance twin", but of "similar". As far as I remember, "Kobe" from the house of Xerjof was already listed as an alleged twin of "APOM" back then, when this change had not yet been made - or vice versa. Even then I frowned, smirked a little and didn't quite want to believe it, because APOM - unfortunately it was discontinued - is a gem of minimalist fragrance art. Orange blossom, amber and cedarwood ... that's about it. And "Kobe"? Well: bergamot, labdanum, orange, neroli, orange blossom, petitgrain, oud, benzoin and so on and so forth. In short, it's not a fragrance twin by any means. Similarities are definitely there, though. Let's just compare.
If the "Kobe" begins with an extremely sharp, for many noses certainly even unpleasant citric, which could briefly compete in its bitter-tart character with many a chypre, the opening of the Kurkdjian masterpiece captivates with a sultry orange blossom. Nothing with sharp bergamot or tangy orange. But quickly back to "Kobe".
Already after a few minutes, the very harsh prelude is softened by an orange blossom, which is sweet and present, but by no means as oppressive as in "APOM" in appearance. The partly unpleasantly tart blends with the sweetness, so that a perfect balance between fruity spice and floral sweetness is established.
While "Kobe" undergoes the development just described, a change is also smellable after the first spraying on the "APOM". The amber begins, which takes the initially overwhelming sweetness of the orange blossom, additionally gives it an interesting dustiness and thereby also tames the Schülstige a little, which there is so in the "Kobe" at no time. In this one, after all - I said it already - the rather special citric is the challenge and less the floral.
After phase 1 and 2 are over with both fragrances, the third phase separates the wheat from the chaff. "APOM" captivates in this by a very clear cedar note, which gives the dusty-ambery orange blossom a woody foundation, which reminds olfactory a little of a pencil. "APOM" is thus a very dry, somehow dirty-dusty orange blossom scent and more than sets itself apart from "Kobe".
The Xerjoff may also have woody notes listed in the base note, but I truly hear nothing of them. Instead, benzoin appears, which gives the composition a very creamy and very warm character. The mild sweetness of orange blossom and the slight hints of citrus, which is still harsh and tart at the beginning, can still be perceived in parallel, although nothing stings or pricks the nose here. "Kobe" thus manages to be a lot of things at once - namely fresh on the one hand, floral on the other, and creamy-warm at the same time. Everything balances itself, takes the fragrance so but also its corners and edges.
The "APOM", on the other hand, is already enough corner and edge alone because of its dusty orange blossom and thus the in my eyes clearly more daring fragrance, in which our Francis does not rely on defusing citric and trimming to everyday suitability as it seems to be, by the way, generally very often the case with Xerjoff. I remember only, without that now negatively to mean, to "Uden" or also because all around popular "Naxos".
In the end, I can say for me that I wear both fragrances very much. I also had to get used to both first. "APOM" was not a love at first smell at the time, similar to "Kobe". Both fragrances have a central strength and equally a central weakness. APOM" shines through its edges and its simplicity, but at the same time I can not wear it regularly, because firstly this fragrance needs higher temperatures to come into its own in all its glory, and secondly, when worn continuously, it quickly becomes too exhausting even for lovers. "Kobe" is much easier to put on, as it is only a matter of overcoming the somewhat special opening. In everyday life, this Xerjoff - despite its complexity - is less likely to cause problems. Will this fragrance perhaps become a little boring at some point? A question that you can certainly ask yourself and measured by the price perhaps should!
PS: If I had to decide within the Shooting Stars - collection for a fragrance, it would probably be the "Uden" ... only so on the edge.
If the "Kobe" begins with an extremely sharp, for many noses certainly even unpleasant citric, which could briefly compete in its bitter-tart character with many a chypre, the opening of the Kurkdjian masterpiece captivates with a sultry orange blossom. Nothing with sharp bergamot or tangy orange. But quickly back to "Kobe".
Already after a few minutes, the very harsh prelude is softened by an orange blossom, which is sweet and present, but by no means as oppressive as in "APOM" in appearance. The partly unpleasantly tart blends with the sweetness, so that a perfect balance between fruity spice and floral sweetness is established.
While "Kobe" undergoes the development just described, a change is also smellable after the first spraying on the "APOM". The amber begins, which takes the initially overwhelming sweetness of the orange blossom, additionally gives it an interesting dustiness and thereby also tames the Schülstige a little, which there is so in the "Kobe" at no time. In this one, after all - I said it already - the rather special citric is the challenge and less the floral.
After phase 1 and 2 are over with both fragrances, the third phase separates the wheat from the chaff. "APOM" captivates in this by a very clear cedar note, which gives the dusty-ambery orange blossom a woody foundation, which reminds olfactory a little of a pencil. "APOM" is thus a very dry, somehow dirty-dusty orange blossom scent and more than sets itself apart from "Kobe".
The Xerjoff may also have woody notes listed in the base note, but I truly hear nothing of them. Instead, benzoin appears, which gives the composition a very creamy and very warm character. The mild sweetness of orange blossom and the slight hints of citrus, which is still harsh and tart at the beginning, can still be perceived in parallel, although nothing stings or pricks the nose here. "Kobe" thus manages to be a lot of things at once - namely fresh on the one hand, floral on the other, and creamy-warm at the same time. Everything balances itself, takes the fragrance so but also its corners and edges.
The "APOM", on the other hand, is already enough corner and edge alone because of its dusty orange blossom and thus the in my eyes clearly more daring fragrance, in which our Francis does not rely on defusing citric and trimming to everyday suitability as it seems to be, by the way, generally very often the case with Xerjoff. I remember only, without that now negatively to mean, to "Uden" or also because all around popular "Naxos".
In the end, I can say for me that I wear both fragrances very much. I also had to get used to both first. "APOM" was not a love at first smell at the time, similar to "Kobe". Both fragrances have a central strength and equally a central weakness. APOM" shines through its edges and its simplicity, but at the same time I can not wear it regularly, because firstly this fragrance needs higher temperatures to come into its own in all its glory, and secondly, when worn continuously, it quickly becomes too exhausting even for lovers. "Kobe" is much easier to put on, as it is only a matter of overcoming the somewhat special opening. In everyday life, this Xerjoff - despite its complexity - is less likely to cause problems. Will this fragrance perhaps become a little boring at some point? A question that you can certainly ask yourself and measured by the price perhaps should!
PS: If I had to decide within the Shooting Stars - collection for a fragrance, it would probably be the "Uden" ... only so on the edge.
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