Naxos has many meanings. It can refer to a Greek island, to both ancient and modern cities of Sicily, but also three eponyms of the island of Naxos, namely the son of Endymion, the son of Apollo, and the son of Polemon. However, being a niche Italian brand, I would like to associate Naxos with the ancient Greek city, currently located in modern Giardini Naxos near Taormina on the east coast of Sicily in southern Italy. Therefore, when I received and tried a sample of this perfume, I expected a fresh and citrus fragrance straight into my head. Something hesperidic, reminiscent of summer, the scorching sun is kissing white houses, the warm, salty breeze blowing from the Ionian Sea, something like #light blue to give you an idea. But no, that is not the case. Naxos experience starts with a bright opening, but a completely different one than I expected. The essence is opposed to the citrus and fresh families. Here we face something oriental and fougére, predominantly a tobacco flower fragrance, more complex and deep, a combination that I like. So how did this mysterious scent present itself when it touched my skin? Let's find out together.
First, when I saw that so many people had associated this niche perfume with
Bogart pour Homme Eau de Toilette I couldn't believe it. "How is it possible?" I said to myself. Well, seeing is believing, two sprays of each perfume on the back of my hands, and voila! The two scents are practically identical in the opening blast and throughout the scent's evolution, passing from the central heart chords to the final dry-down ones. But, perhaps, the dry-down is a breakeven, and Naxos results in more unisex with a feminine slant, whereas Bogart remains masculine, animal and has something dirtier. Instead, the albeit distant similarity with
Insurrection II Wild is tiny rather than nothing on my skin. While Naxos and Bogart release sweet and honeyed accords, Insurrection Wild veers towards aromatic and herbaceous undertones.
At first, its slightly acidic and herbaceous notes fill you with joy that grows with intensity and exoticism thanks to honeyed, smoky and sweet undertones. It opens opulent and rich, with a burst of smooth tobacco, citrus, lime and some herbs. It is simply divine. Citrus fruits are there, but they are subdued. Sweet and enveloping right away, it releases an aroma of honey mixed with fleeting sparkling notes at the opening. Honestly, I was expecting a citrus blast, but I get something spicier, with pepper, cinnamon and a solid mentholated anise vibe too.
The heart exudes something unexpected. Despite the pyramid, the bitterness of the almond is a note that I perceive the most. As the heart rests on the skin, it releases a dusty scent of almonds with honey, reminiscent of nougat and Sicily. Honey evolves quickly, becoming almost almondy, wonderful, sweet at the right point, very elegant. In addition, a very light and powdery lavender leaves its floral touch. The flower of Provence is polarizing, and for a moment, it is just a calm breeze that passes softly in the background; the next moment is quite decisive, and sometimes even medicinal, like a bouquet freshly picked in the fields of Grasse. Lavender gives a slightly soapy and powdery vibe to this fragrance for life. This mixture of images, spices, and colours also makes me smell the Sicilian cassata's famous candied fruit. And it's an exciting part for me as it offers bitter almonds mixed with tobacco, tonka bean and tobacco, which I love. If honey is not enough, indole jasmine, luxuriant and immensely syrupy, amplifies an almost candied sweetness. The combination of tobacco and honey always plays a fundamental role, especially at the end, when it becomes warm and soft and carries a more virile imprint. Honey isn't choking or killing other notes but subtly and elegantly gives a rich, deep base with jasmine and tobacco.
The undertone of vanilla is always present and appears creamy, silky, supple and perfectly balanced, without even a squeaky sugar or nuanced hint of gooey caramel. Cashmere contrasts with cinnamon; on the one hand, a warm and comforting note, on the other, a slight spiciness. But the most exciting thing in the base is the notes of tobacco, vanilla and tonka, which give me a wonderfully sweet and never cloying fragrance, suitable for every situation and context, mature but capable of being modern, greedy always natural, which gives elegance and refinement. Over time, the images and notes change faster and faster, thanks to the impact of silky vanilla, dry woods, incense-like smokiness, spicy patchouli, and even a little amber alcohol.
Naxos is an influential artist. It is a great perfume, no doubt about it. So evocative. The sillage is broad, and the persistence is long-lived. For me, it is the perfume that embodies the cold months, especially during the day. Dried spices predict autumn very well. The sweetness of honey can cut through the cold winter air.
I base the review on a decant I have owned since December 2021.
-Elysium