XJ 1861 Decas by XerJoff

XJ 1861 Decas 2021

26.05.2021 - 07:33 PM
Helpful Review

A better first impression than actual character

Xerjoff Decas

Top notes: Tuberose, Tobacco, Calabrian mandarin orange
Mid notes: Florentine iris, benzoin, opoponax
Base notes: musk, balsam, bourbon vanilla

Background Information
Decas was released in celebration of the 10th anniversary of the 1861 collection (which also includes Naxos, Renaissance and Zefiro). Recurring element in this collection I find the use of citrus (Renaissance) or aromatic notes (Zefiro and Naxos). Seen this way, Decas, amber-vanilla-citrus fragrance, fits perfectly into the 1861 trend.

Fragrance composition
- Opening
Decas opens very warmly with amber and vanilla immediately in the foreground. The amber and vanilla are full and dense in their own right. The benzoin gives it a spicy character. The orris makes the fragrance buttery and creamy.

Underneath the amber and vanilla is the calabrian mandarin. This note makes the fragrance airy and of somewhat lighter weight. Very pleasant and mouthwateringly refreshing.

- Mid
The mid consists of a warm bed of amber and vanille with that mandarine note that lingers around. It reminded me slightly of Hale Bopp by Tiziana Terenzi but that scent leans heavily on lemon. Decas does so on tangerine. Hale Bopp is also heavy on spices (clove and cinnamon) while Decas stays straight forward with amber and vanilla. The only spicy facet associated with it is the benzoin.

- Dry Down
The dry down differs from the opening. Paired with the musk, the orris steps more prominently into the foreground. It makes the fragrance warmer and more sensual. The freshness of the tangerine - which I personally love - fades away, which is quite a shame if you ask me.

The trouble I have with the dry down is that it becomes a buttery, musky amber-vanilla scent. That's already explored territory for many of us. In other words, nothing groundbreaking. You can almost think of it as Ani without that sharp ginger and bergamot, and with an additional note of amber.

Notes I do not detect: tobacco, resins and opoponax.

A very pleasant fragrance that is easily wearable and even hints at a gourmand at times. Had hoped that the opening would linger much longer and the dry down retained the freshness of the tangerine. The tangerine blended perfectly with the vanilla and amber. The dry down is unfortunately nothing unique. A missed opportunity. Or should I say: a great first impression that didn't live up to its self.

Fragrance Profile: 7.5
Projection: 7
Sillage: 7
Longevity: 7
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