I have owned Yves Rocher Cuir Vetiver for a couple of years since it was launched, but I haven't written any reviews yet. I think now is the time to do it. Cuir Vetiver is the most delicate leathery accord I've ever smelled in my whole life. On my skin, it is silky leather like the wings of a butterfly.
Cuir means leather in French, and I was intrigued to smell how the leather would translate into this fragrance because you have to evoke the scent of leather by using other, distillable elements. That means there is a lot of diversity in leather fragrances, based on how the perfumer interprets the scent. Cuir Vetiver is a light leather perfume created by Sonia Constant of Givaudan. She wanted to design a fresh leather scent, and I think she succeeded very well without sacrificing the cosy, warm notes I so enjoy in masculine fragrances. You might notice a slight similarity with #Narciso Rodriguez for Him Bleu Noir, and the same perfumer pictured the scent.
The brightness comes right away with lively bergamot. As a partner, a few lavender kicks in. The lavender is the more floral form of the ingredient and blended with the bergamot, releasing a creamy aspect that attracts me now and then. True to its name, this perfume unfurls with the strong presence of smokey, citrusy, Vetiver, quite weird as a beginning note. The warm and intense notes continue into the heart of the scent.
It provides a contrast to the heart notes of cedar and vetiver. The solid lines of both notes offer the framework for the leather accord to appear. Cuir Vetiver pursues with citrus Haiti Vetiver, which is smoky like bacon. It manages to create the smell of just the warm aroma of your skin --a sensation so bright and clean-- which melts into a buttery, powdery, and woody leather supported by Caribbean sandalwood and cedarwood. So, no birch, no tar, no castoreum, no Cuir de Russie Eau de Toilette
, or Ombré Leather (2018) Eau de Parfum
. It's more delicate than that. It's neither quite refined enough to remind me of suede, nor is it animalic sufficient to be a rawer version of leather. It seems to sit closer to the suede side of the spectrum, with the brightness and lifts. The rich leather is very appealing, very masculine in a gentle way, rather than harsh.
This base is composed of vanilla-like absolute tonka. It is amber and vanillic, a sweet, warm comfort, which smells nutty without being a gourmand. It is a delicious roasted tonka bean, similar to the pleasant aroma you get from a warm Crème brûlée dessert, also known as burnt cream, Trinity cream, or Crema Catalana. It consists of a rich custard base topped with a textually contrasting layer of hardened caramelized sugar. That's precisely the dry down of Cuir Vetiver. It's the vetiver and cedar in Cuir Vetiver that overlaps with the fragrance notes in Bleu Noir.
Cuir Vetiver has four to six hours longevity and below average sillage. For those who consider longevity something important in the fragrances you buy, Cuir Vetiver, like most Yves Rocher releases, has some of the lowest amounts of endurance.
I find this a strong vetiver cologne with a touch of luxurious leather in the background, so Cuir Vetiver or Vetiver Leather makes sense to me. Cuir Vetiver is another exquisite perfume in the Yves Rocher collection. Mme Constant pulls off an exciting take on leather and vetiver while keeping the cost down. I think Cuir Vetiver has a delightful scent. A very stylish choice that will not overpower. Suitable for formal or informal occasions, this is easy to wear. I think it works in the middle seasons, both Spring and Fall, and at any time of the day, workday, a Sunday brunch with your friends or at a party with people you want to impress. Perhaps, at the end of a hot summer day, the perfect antidote to extinguish the heat and sticky sand.
In my last words, the composition is intellectually inspired by Terre d'Hermès, the first cologne that came to my mind when I tested it but is a faithful reworking of the idea. It does not aim, for instance, to reproduce the innovative flint-like note of the first. It smells like its perfume. It is in no way a slavish composition.