Imagine you go to a good restaurant.
3 courses are served.
Starter / main course / dessert
Classic, you'd think. Or not?
But today the chef is trying something new. He exchanges the starter and the dessert and remains behind a new experience.
The starter - Sweet, sweeter, top note M7
The first impression is brachial.
Bergamot, Mandarin, Orange.
These fruits determine the enormous sweet portion of the perfume. These remain present even beyond the top note and have a decisive influence on the course of the fragrance. I personally am a tangerine fan and this first impression was positive for me. It is rounded off with a good pinch of salt (I perceive it at least subtly).
But as if that wasn't enough for now, we are greeted by a fragrance from the kitchen that gives this perfume its name ...
Main course - eagle wood garnished with patchouli and some rosemary.
The salt is used as a transition, trying to unite the sweetness of the fruit and the oud. This idea is brilliant and one of the reasons why the top note mixes so much with the heart note and remains present for so long. I can imagine salt here as a natural flavour enhancer, just as it really is in the kitchen.
Now to the eponymous oud. It is and remains something very personal. Whether you like it or not is up to you. Due to the enormous fruits, the oud is well controlled, but nevertheless it is the determining part in this fragrance. For me personally two completely different impressions remained behind.
On the one hand the feeling as if the oud would bring a depth and maturity into the perfume which makes it a very noble perfume and on the other hand as if the whole menu would be served in a cowshed. Oud is something special. In this combination, with the fruits and the salt, it is converted to mass production.
Patchouli acts here as a link between top note and heart note. The earthy-woody one goes well with the oud and the sweetish one with the fruits. The rosemary underlines the whole thing slightly, but in my opinion it is barely perceptible. As if some rosemary scattered over the eagle wood would serve as garnish.
Dessert - the attempt to become mystical
Finally, Yves Saint Laurent serves us a mixture of grasses and smoke, and unfortunately tries to mystify some artificial M7. Basically one has to say that the base note does not have its own appearance. It only begins to show through after a few hours, but looks like it was not intended. The idea of using myrrh (one of my favourite fragrances), labdanum, vetiver and amber to play around and lengthen the woody-sweet note of the perfume is very intelligent, but it lacks all the power. The ingredients are chosen fantastically:
The mystical myrrh combines with the sweet grass vetiver and combines with the amber a woody-balsamic-sweet fragrance experience and is finally coated with the Labdanum as a smoking fireworks. Ingenious ... but too little, too late. One could have separated from the musk alone here already in the apron. I don't think he fits in here.
Perhaps one should have been more reserved with the fruits and more with the myrrh and the labdanum in the foreground, one could have mixed the heart and top note, but unfortunately the base note remains backward and behind its possibility. The dessert is already cold, although it should be warm.
One notices the desire to tame the oud for the masses. The scent doesn't spread throughout the room, but sticks to you and only brings those people into the boat who are not too far away from you. That also fits to this fragrance, and even if the Sillage is not big with it, she still gets a good score from me.
As mentioned above, the head and heart notes merge very quickly, very strongly. The perfume's actual fragrance takes effect after just a few minutes and then lasts for a good 3-4 hours, while the base note is then added slightly. Overall, the fragrance is perceptible for a good half day. This is also an acceptable result for an eau de toilette.
I have to say a big word of praise. The main components of the perfume are listed on the bottle. Here called chords:
Bois de Oud
I guess Ciste means Labdanum. Creating such transparency here and explaining the perfume process to the buyer gives me great advantages. On the front is big:
Yves Saint Laurent
The name of the brand is in the familiar font. The ACCORDS are placed on the right side of the second surface of the square bottle, seen from the front. The writing imprint is noticeable under the fingers, which I personally like very much, because it leaves behind a multidimensional feeling. At the bottom of the floor is a small round transparent sticker with some information. Made in France, 80ml etc. But most of it is hard to read, because the glass mirrors and it is very small and partly written round (typical for such stickers).
The bottle itself has a high-quality design and also looks good. The glass is rounded at the corners so that there is no risk of injury. Inside, the glass is poured into a mould that leads to the back of the glass, which makes the perfume stand out nicely with its colour. Because the cap sits on at an angle, you have to fumble a little to close the bottle (At least with me as a symmetry freak this seems to be the case. I just want to put it on symmetrically to the bottle. Round too round, square too square. If you had a higher intelligence quotient than me, I think you'd be better off with it.) The lid is black and reminds me a bit of the monolith of 2001 - Odyssey in Space. Which is a big compliment since that's my favorite movie. The spray head delivers strong, targeted shocks and is of the highest quality. Finally, the colour of the perfume. This one promises what's inside. The mandarin, the oud and the labdanum seem to combine and produce a yellowish-orange colour similar to a cognac or whisky. Very attractive and high quality.
The packaging is in the typical rectangular shape of black cardboard, printed with small squares. All the necessary information is on the back. On the front side it says like on the bottle:
Yves Saint Laurent
On the left side, seen from the front, it says in several languages:
A sensual perfume on the base of a woody duvet chord
On the lid the Yves Saint Laurent symbol is noticeably printed in black.
The perfume is absolutely high-quality and intelligently implemented. I find the idea with the salt brilliant and the sweetness of the fruits harmonize great with the oud. Since I'm a big myrrh fan and I'm enthusiastic about the idea to include myrrh and Labdanum on the one hand, on the other hand I'm a little inhibited with the cheering, because you could have done it better. This might have raised this perfume to another level. In the end, it all depends on the oud. If he didn't like it, he probably wouldn't enjoy this perfume either.