4MBR0X1D3 is the 5th cologne of the molecule collection and it evokes the scent of violets growing in a woods valley. This precise synthetic molecule, aka ambroxan, smells clearly ambery. It’s close to a mixture of iso e super and ambrox. Woody, pine, cedar-like with a green seedy, tobacco, and tea-like nuance, a kind of labdanum note, and clean laundry are the main accords. But what is ambroxide all about? This artificial molecule is derived from natural herbal, clary sage cultivar, which is bred to produce high quantities of a waxy substance called sclareol, an important raw material for perfume and other fragrance products. It is made into a replacement for ambergris, a substance so rare that it trades for about the same price as gold. A waxy secretion from the stomachs of sperm whales, ambergris on rare occasions washes up on beaches. Perhaps surprisingly, ambergris has a pleasant aroma—a bit musky, sweet, and earthy. Similarly, ambroxide brings a woody amber note, which is telling its own story among a sea of fragrance materials. Currently, there are several key tradenames for the ingredient, including Givaudan’s Ambrofix, Firmenich’s Ambrox, IFF’s Ambermor, Symrise’s Ambroxide, Mane’s Orcanox and Kao (ex Cognis/Henkel)’s Ambroxan, among others.
4MBR0X1D3 opens a bit citrus, a hint of lime I bet that brightens the early moments but stays earthy, a rich chypre with spicy fresh ginger. It’s easier to wear than an old cashmere cardigan. Of these notes, lime, ginger, and cardamom dominate, and amber and musk ground the scent. The green cardamom is not leading the scene, just lingering in the background.
The roster mentions violet, and alpha-isomethyl ionone is present in the ingredients, a safe synthetic compound that reproduces the smell of flowers, with a sweet and powdery touch, woody and floral scent, very similar to violet and orris. This is iris without a touch of wet or cold to it. For those who aren't usually fans of florals, this may work for you, as it isn't too sweet and has only the slightest touch of powder, difficult to pull off with both iris and violet in the composition. 4MBR0X1D3 gives a new perspective on the iris perfume. It twists the cool, rooty, powdery sharpness of the iris into a new shape. Where iris root tends toward the powdery in most perfumes, in this cologne it’s a cold, tingling, green, papery dust. It comes off as dry but tacky like rosin.
The heart is even full of rose, an incredible ingredient that is often misunderstood. For centuries the terms ‘feminine’ ‘floral’ and ‘powdery’ have been strong associations, and whilst these are all true, certain species of rose also carry a ‘fresh’ hint of ‘citrus’ as well as ‘clean’ ‘masculine’ ‘woody’ and even ‘fruity’ notes. That's the kind of rosy nuance I get from the heart.
What comes next is a rooty earthiness, a vegetal spiciness, probably the combination of ambroxide and cardamom along with the musk. As the scent develops I smell the smooth muskiness of the base and ambergris is definitely in there according to my nose, which only means that I believe in the existence of ambroxide in the formula. I definitely pick out the warm, close-to-the-skin buzz of sandalwood. Under some aspects, 4MBR0X1D3 likens S4ND4LW00D and santal is the key.
Ultimately, built around a heart of smooth iris, 4MBR0X1D3's elegant fragrance is infused with amber, cardamom, and sandalwood. The ambroxide here ain't no reminiscent of CD Sauvage or Versace Dylan Blue, yet a more poetic description might be the scent of bare, sun-warm skin or ancient libraries filled with archaic books. I would wear it in the cold season, it's a Winter cologne, from early morning to late evening, office-friendly,