06/17/2021
Elysium
815 Reviews
Elysium
3
Salty & Caramelised Almond Dragée
If we talk about confetti, there is a world to discover: classics, pebbles, biscuits, balls, chocolate dragée, lollipops, marshmallows, and treats. However, what I like most are the classic sugared almonds, or almond dragée, the whole well-roasted almond with a delicate layer of hard sugar coating, usually in soft pastel colors. Here the best almonds are from Marcona; they are a type of sweet, gourmet almonds from Spain that are very popular in Mediterranean countries. A Marcona almond, or Queen of Almonds, is far more precious, moister, and softer than the classic almond variety with a buttery flavor and texture. It has a delicate aroma and taste that is reminiscent of the almond essence used in baked goods. And then there are the bitter ones from Avola; everywhere in Sicily, this exquisite fruit is the fundamental basis of many typical recipes. For instance, marzipan, Martorana fruit, nougat, cubbaita, cassata, almond biscuits, almond milk, granita, almond pudding, also called Bianco Mangiare.
With this very recent version, Ms Nathalie Lorson has tried to recreate the bittersweet smell of almond candy, adorning it with musky and powdery nuances and enclosing it all in a nice bottle with cylindrical and minimalist lines. The fragrance is delicately sweet, nutty, and vanillic. Imagine a pastel lilac iris sprinkled with vanilla-scented white almond powder, then a thin, thin layer of powdered sugar. It has that same burnt sugary note Baccarat Rouge 540 Eau de Parfum has but then a million times softer. First, MSK 004/NTL is one of four pieces in the Zara Chapter No. 2 collection, each created by a master perfumer. According to the official Zara website, this fragrance is an EDP with floral essence. It is a relatively simple composition, centered around three keynotes sprinkled with subtle gourmand elements: candied almond, iris, and patchouli. And I must admit that the sensation of Italian confetti is 100% present in the perfume.
The opening pleasantly surprised me. I was waiting for some soft musky scent, and this fits the bill. At first, I feel an explosion of caramelized sugar and sweet white almond. That sticky, thick aroma is floating in the air at a fair, where street vendors candy sugar and then pour a bunch of kinds of roasted nuts in it, ranging from hazelnut, peanut, but also sesame seeds. Here, we have pure sweet and sour almonds. I even get the clean, intense, slightly boozy, creamy white musk in the background by sniffing carefully. The alcohol blends with the opening accords and offers an aroma akin to an excellent vodka liquor. I smell edible musk right away, although there is a short, fresh pop when first sprayed that could be a hint of bergamot.
As soon as the sugariness tones down, a warm and cozy powderiness takes place without disappearing at all. To my nose, almond lends a very appealing creaminess. It is a light creaminess, so maybe more like almond milk — subtle and enhancing the iris rather than announcing itself. Iris is not alone. I get other sweet and wet blossoms, perhaps citrus, white blooms soaked into a sugar syrup. I am not sure if the dominant note is the almond or the iris. Depending on the time, I get most of the former or the latter. Surely, sweetness and powderiness are in there.
At the finish, the dragée aspect also shows up quickly. The light vanilla notes of the coumarin appear wisely mixed with the earthy-clean white musk and the powdery trail that reaches us from the heart. I don’t hear patchouli dirty and earthy, or at least I don’t recognize it in the last notes. Instead, I seem to perceive a dry, velvety, wood-like, slightly salty undertone smell, typical of the Iso E Super synthesis molecule.
It has good sillage and great longevity, and it will last on clothes for days! Even when the scent moves close to the skin, you can still feel it. I especially liked the idea behind this perfume, which is to build a gourmand around the note of white musk and iris. Spring and Fall are the perfect seasons, and daytime is more appropriate. As the perfumer combined it with the sweet almond, it forms an odd powdery iris macaron accord—the scent blooms in the warmer weather. MSK 004/NTL is a delicate, beautiful take on iris, natural-feeling and serene, with a soft pastry-like flair that doesn’t overshadow its well-rendered keynote. If you like iris fragrances, I suspect you will like this one a lot! This being a Nathalie Lorson creation, it wouldn't surprise me if it was a replica of Iris Dragées made with more affordable ingredients.
Have you tried MSK 004/NTL or any others from Chapter No.2? What did you think?
I based the review on an 80ml bottle I have owned since June 2021.
-Elysium
With this very recent version, Ms Nathalie Lorson has tried to recreate the bittersweet smell of almond candy, adorning it with musky and powdery nuances and enclosing it all in a nice bottle with cylindrical and minimalist lines. The fragrance is delicately sweet, nutty, and vanillic. Imagine a pastel lilac iris sprinkled with vanilla-scented white almond powder, then a thin, thin layer of powdered sugar. It has that same burnt sugary note Baccarat Rouge 540 Eau de Parfum has but then a million times softer. First, MSK 004/NTL is one of four pieces in the Zara Chapter No. 2 collection, each created by a master perfumer. According to the official Zara website, this fragrance is an EDP with floral essence. It is a relatively simple composition, centered around three keynotes sprinkled with subtle gourmand elements: candied almond, iris, and patchouli. And I must admit that the sensation of Italian confetti is 100% present in the perfume.
The opening pleasantly surprised me. I was waiting for some soft musky scent, and this fits the bill. At first, I feel an explosion of caramelized sugar and sweet white almond. That sticky, thick aroma is floating in the air at a fair, where street vendors candy sugar and then pour a bunch of kinds of roasted nuts in it, ranging from hazelnut, peanut, but also sesame seeds. Here, we have pure sweet and sour almonds. I even get the clean, intense, slightly boozy, creamy white musk in the background by sniffing carefully. The alcohol blends with the opening accords and offers an aroma akin to an excellent vodka liquor. I smell edible musk right away, although there is a short, fresh pop when first sprayed that could be a hint of bergamot.
As soon as the sugariness tones down, a warm and cozy powderiness takes place without disappearing at all. To my nose, almond lends a very appealing creaminess. It is a light creaminess, so maybe more like almond milk — subtle and enhancing the iris rather than announcing itself. Iris is not alone. I get other sweet and wet blossoms, perhaps citrus, white blooms soaked into a sugar syrup. I am not sure if the dominant note is the almond or the iris. Depending on the time, I get most of the former or the latter. Surely, sweetness and powderiness are in there.
At the finish, the dragée aspect also shows up quickly. The light vanilla notes of the coumarin appear wisely mixed with the earthy-clean white musk and the powdery trail that reaches us from the heart. I don’t hear patchouli dirty and earthy, or at least I don’t recognize it in the last notes. Instead, I seem to perceive a dry, velvety, wood-like, slightly salty undertone smell, typical of the Iso E Super synthesis molecule.
It has good sillage and great longevity, and it will last on clothes for days! Even when the scent moves close to the skin, you can still feel it. I especially liked the idea behind this perfume, which is to build a gourmand around the note of white musk and iris. Spring and Fall are the perfect seasons, and daytime is more appropriate. As the perfumer combined it with the sweet almond, it forms an odd powdery iris macaron accord—the scent blooms in the warmer weather. MSK 004/NTL is a delicate, beautiful take on iris, natural-feeling and serene, with a soft pastry-like flair that doesn’t overshadow its well-rendered keynote. If you like iris fragrances, I suspect you will like this one a lot! This being a Nathalie Lorson creation, it wouldn't surprise me if it was a replica of Iris Dragées made with more affordable ingredients.
Have you tried MSK 004/NTL or any others from Chapter No.2? What did you think?
I based the review on an 80ml bottle I have owned since June 2021.
-Elysium
Elysium
