Vetiverus by Avant-Garden Lab / Oliver & Co.
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7.2 / 1044 Ratings
Vetiverus is a perfume by Avant-Garden Lab / Oliver & Co. for women and men and was released in 2012. The scent is spicy-woody. The production was apparently discontinued.
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Perfumer

Oliver Valverde

Fragrance Notes

AmbergrisAmbergris
Haitian vetiverHaitian vetiver
Madagascan cloveMadagascan clove
Orange zestOrange zest
Osmanthus absoluteOsmanthus absolute
PatchouliPatchouli
Russian corianderRussian coriander
Spanish labdanumSpanish labdanum
StyraxStyrax
White muskWhite musk

Ratings

Scent

7.244 Ratings

Longevity

7.836 Ratings

Sillage

6.836 Ratings

Bottle

7.237 Ratings
Submitted by Franfan20, last update on 27.11.2021.
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Reviews

8.5
Scent
8
Longevity
8
Sillage
9
Bottle
10
Pricing
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Very helpful Review    8  
Black Apricots
Vetiverus is one of the four Avant-Garden Lab fragrances I recently tested. And it is one that stands out clearly from the quartet (Veil, Orion, Ambergreen, Vetiverus), by its, even if only supposed, naturalness.

The fragrance starts herb-sweet and tarry-smoky: as if one had torn open fleshy, amber-colored dried apricots, and immediately pulled them with relish through a bowl of tar.

This harsh and tart combo may seem animalic - but Salamanca comes more to mind: well-matched here with the original version of Bat (2015).

Vetiverus could easily have come from Dr. Ellen Coven's box of ideas - so surprising it seems to the otherwise monothematic and carefree synthetic experiments from the lab of avant-garde Oliver Valverde.

Tarry smoky notes and tart, overripe, fruit-led sweetness create a wonderful and versatile mid-weight scent here:

Sprayed on clothing, the first accords catch in the fabric and congeal.

On the skin, however, unfolds - after several hours - a gentle vetiver with a nice osmanthus impact. I as a hobby nose, believe here both can distinguish well, and the long asphalt path through the warm and humid fruit leather jungle I like extremely well.

Tar and smoke with flowers or fruits to flank, is probably no longer the absolute avant-garde, yet Vetiverus with its two ignition stages and the beautiful metamorphosis into the green and tangy, is hardly a mere provocation, but rather a rather well thought out composition.

That Ambergreen bagged the laurels of the jurors at the time is somewhere understandable; Vetiverus probably appeared on the radar of very few - wrongly, in my opinion. A massive stuff, and a bold olfactory statement.
5 Replies
hedonist222

26 Reviews
hedonist222
hedonist222
   2  
unique take on vetiver but terrible dry down
Vetiverus is a unique take on Vetiver. Vetiver is usually stark and austere when represented.
Except of course for a few offshoots like Fat Electrician, Vetiver Tonka, Vetyverio and Annick Goutal's Vetiver.

Vetiverus opens with a soft clove, a soft humming coriander & orange peel accord.

The bitterness from the orange peel, along with the osmanthus and the soft clove result in a magnificent accord.

The accord is a festivity of notes. The sharp unmistake smell of bitter orange, the never intrusive soft coriander-clove aroma and finally the comforting floral osmanthus.

Making it a very easy to wear, yet never boring and always captivating perfume. Taking deep whiffs of pleasure.

The above accord , thankfully, remains strong for a good few hours before the perfume gets very soft and looses the pizzazz it begins with.

If you were to analyze the vetiver note in |absolute value| terms, it is almost identical to that of Fat Electrician. But the perfume has more (above accord) going on so it is not similar to Fat Electrician as-a-perfume. Mentioning this to clarify that the Vetiver is never stark and austere like in Lorenzo Villoresi's Vetiver or Route du Vetiver.
Here comes the huge con.

The dry down has very disturbing note.

It severely needs adjustment.

I noticed this in the majority of Oliver's perfumes.

It feels like a shrieking banshee. Constant and very discomforting.

So keep the above in mind.
1 Replies

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