Heure Exquise 1984

Heure Exquise by Goutal
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Heure Exquise is a popular perfume by Goutal for women and was released in 1984. The scent is floral-powdery. It is being marketed by Amore Pacific / 아모레퍼시픽. Pronunciation
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Fragrance Notes

Turkish rose, Florentine iris, Sandalwood

Ratings

Scent

7.9 | 76 Ratings

Longevity

7.1 | 59 Ratings

Sillage

6.7 | 55 Ratings

Bottle

8.1 | 60 Ratings
Submitted by Chemist, last update on 12.04.2021.
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Reviews

8
Scent
8
Longevity
7
Sillage
7
Bottle
Marieposa
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Marieposa
Marieposa
Top Review    19  
The hour of a new woman
Whenever Aunt Käthe announced herself for Sunday roast, the little girl would tiptoe conspicuously unobtrusively near the entrance hall, so as not to miss it when Berta opened the door and Käthe floated in at the door with her carrying voice and cooing laugh.
The aunt was different. It started when she drove up in her OWN car, honking loudly, which Mutti only acknowledged with an exasperated snort - and elicited a disrespectful comment from Vati: Woman at the wheel, monster. No one dared mention what had happened to their own car. Immediately before Daddy had hired the chauffeur.
It could not be entirely ruled out that he was thus scolding the aunt because she had refused to become Mrs. Director at that time, preferring to enroll at the university under a false name. A scandal that had forced the grandmother to bed with a migraine for a whole week. At least that's what the neighbors whispered to each other. But then everything had turned out all right and Mutti had become Frau Direktor instead of her sister.
Aunt Käthe always told completely different stories than Mutti or her friends. She laughed louder than the other women ever did, and lit her own cigarette with the greatest naturalness, as if the men were not there at all. She had travelled halfway round the world, although she had no husband to look after her. Mutti always emphasized that very much, but the little girl had never understood why. Aunt Käthe seemed to be able to take care of herself quite well.
Besides, Aunt Käthe always smelled so wonderful: a tiny hint of smoke mingled with powdery flowers, shimmering cool greens, and dark wood. But there was something else, too. Human and alive.
Auntie never rebuked the little girl, telling her to sit up straight and take her elbows off the table. And even when she had neatly cut off the lace trim from her Sunday dress with the tinker's scissors and then trimmed her doll's curls, it had only elicited a deep, cooing laugh from her aunt. "She's just like you were then," Mommie had hissed, red marks forming on her neck.

Years later, hardly anyone will turn their nose up at the young woman who still doesn't like lace trims and would rather stick her nose between books than care about something as mundane as Sunday roast. Her fragrance is brand new to the market, called No19, and it's by Chanel. It reminds her a little of her admired aunt, but it's clearer, more unfussy and cooler.

**

I beg your pardon for the anachronism. I'm well aware that Heure Exquise is a whopping thirteen years younger than No19, but still, the scent tempts you to think it's always been there - or at least almost. I smell vintage charm, a tiny bit of melancholy and passion pulsing barely concealed beneath the surface, and a heady mix of cool and warm. An animalic note adds liveliness, but also makes me personally prefer No19 or Jacomo's Silences.
12 Replies
8
Scent
6
Longevity
7
Sillage
9
Bottle
Oriane

114 Reviews
Oriane
Oriane
   1  
Classic French Perfumery in the Best Sense of the Term
I cannot add much more to what other reviewers have said about this fragrance already. Heure Exquise is quite simply a drop dead gorgeous fragrance, and if I did not know better, I would be convinced that it is a legendary Guerlain creation. This is classic French perfumery at its finest as I have only known Guerlain to do it, and this is very high praise indeed coming from a Guerlain worshipper.

HE does remind me somewhat of Chamade as others have noted, but it is not at all the same as Chamade. I like HE even more than Chamade. It is more lush than Chamade and has a darker rose note.

I think HE lends itself more readily to evening wear, and it is a bit formal. I fancy it suits a sophisticated, elegant woman of at least 35 or older. I cannot imagine anyone in her 20s wearing this. HE is to Annick Goutal what Shalimar is to Guerlain and No. 5 is to CHANEL---the houses's iconic fragrances.

This exquisite fragrance is both full bottle worthy and back up bottle worthy in my opinion. I have only smelt a few fragrances from Annick Goutal, but HE is by far the most beautiful, the most impressive of those I have tried.

Few fragrances literally have made me swoon, but HE is definitely one that made me swoon not simply upon first application but throughout its excellent unfolding all the way into the deep dry down. I do not wish to gush, but this is one of those fragrances one could believe was created for a goddess just as Fanny opined in her review.

Fragrance: 10/10
Sillage: 9/10
Projection: 9/10
Longevity: 7/10
8
Scent
7
Longevity
7
Sillage
8
Bottle
Fanny

66 Reviews
Fanny
Fanny
Very helpful Review    6  
Too excellent?...
Well, Divinity has arrived in the building.
Everything else, previously called divine, is looking a bit faint and dusty.

Being not too much in the habit of idolising flowers in a perfume, let alone idolise a 'flowers-only' scent (I'm an overall 'woody oriental' (Lutens!!) worshipper), I am confused by the fact that this perfume compels me to "throw heaps of praise upon it"..

So I question myself:
Would I want to smell like a goddess?
Would I want to own the stature of an empress?
Would I want heads to bow in awe and recognition?
Hm.

Do I bow for Heure Exquise?
Yes.
1 Replies
hedonist222

26 Reviews
hedonist222
hedonist222
Very helpful Review    5  
Carnal and sultry
The use of galbanum in Heure Exquise is outstanding.

She's managed to compose a perfume that's absolutely sultry. The soft floral accord pierced and ravished by the galbanum.
Rendering a perfume that would've aptly been named Carnal Orchard.

Galbanum , in my experience , is mostly used detached whatever accord the perfumer has going in that perfume.
Imagine a floral accord and the galbanum note in tandem but on different tangents.
But in Heure Exquise the galbanum intertwines, harasses if you will, those shy spoken florals.

I recently picked up a bottle of the EdP and have been mesmerized by the craftsmanship deployed in utilizing the galbanum to compose such an animalic scent.
8
Scent
10
Longevity
10
Sillage
10
Bottle
Sherapop

1239 Reviews
Sherapop
Sherapop
Very helpful Review    5  
A Stunning Floral Chypre
Annick Goutal HEURE EXQUISE is such a complex and compelling creation, constructed of such high-quality components, that it could easily have come out of the house of Guerlain in the early twentieth century, back in the good old days, long before the devastating coup staged by industrial chemists and venture capitalists. Wow, I'm impressed.

Unbelievably, HEURE EXQUISE actually lives up to its name. This exquisite chypre-like floral approaches the stratum occupied by the likes of MITSOUKO and ARPEGE. You won't find any sour, synthetic sandalwood here. Du vrai parfum, this is just stunning! Rose and iris mingle with a variety of unlisted chypre notes to produce an intoxicating composition with excellent longevity and big, beautiful sillage.
Kosmoskukka

18 Reviews
Kosmoskukka
Kosmoskukka
Helpful Review    2  
Memories from old good times*
Hi,
this scent reminds me of some hundreds ago times of classical Lady having wisdom at Heart connected to mind. Peacefull and comforting nature. Not femme fatale at all or club queen. But this scent is a scent of royal court, large gardens with people enjoying each others company, labyrinth plays on summer day. Old fashioned scent and so stylish. I just had to order big edp bottle of this special scent.
8
Scent
7.5
Longevity
7.5
Sillage
Missk

1165 Reviews
Missk
Missk
Helpful Review    5  
My favourite iris fragrance
An iris fragrance in my mind, and based upon what I've experienced, is often counteracted with a distinguishable soapiness, heavy powder or an array of other floral notes. Heure Exquise is very different from what I'm used to. This is no Iris Nobile, Le Labo Iris 39 or Chanel 28 La Pausa.

I was actually surprised to see iris listed as a note here. When I first smelt this fragrance the dominant iris did not occur to me. I was too fascinated with the overall composition rather than determining particular notes.

Upon further reflection, Heure Exquise does have a lovely iris accord. This fragrance is stunningly simple. Somewhat dry, spiced powder with smokey undertones.

To me this fragrance is almost animalistic. It has many sensual qualities and it exudes confidence and an element of class. When the iris blends with the turkish rose, sandalwood and subtle spices, the result is almost ethereal.

Heure Exquise almost surpasses my undying love for Passion, also by Annick Goutal. Combined with great lasting power and an iris that shines above and beyond many iris scents on the market today, Heure Exquise is a sure winner in my eyes.

I cannot wait to get my hands on a bottle. The wait is almost too hard to bare.
SystemeD

58 Reviews
SystemeD
SystemeD
Helpful Review    3  
One of the best Goutal fragrances
Heure Exquise opens with aldehydes, which I did not expect at all.

Then, galbanum, and lots of it, accompanied by rose. There's some iris here too, but the galbanum dominates on me, even into the drydown, which is a sweet sandalwood, simultaneously powdery and rounded.

Lovely, really.

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