Cuirs Nomades - Italian Leather by Memo Paris

Cuirs Nomades - Italian Leather 2013

03.07.2021 - 01:59 PM

Some kind of freak art

The "Leather" series of Memo are all experimental and interesting. This series reinterprets and modernizes the historical and local characteristics of scents. And I'd like to say that this series is not appealing people who just find a wearable perfume, it's attracting the attention of perfume otakus.

Anyway, Italian Leather is a very unusual freak in the Leather series. If Irish Leather or African Leather are the Tarantino style of cool homage to Hong Kong noir films, Italian Leather can be likened to the Jim Jarmusch style of deliberately randomly rearranging codes of Japanese samurai films.

The "Italian" scent that this perfume presents, is a parody that goes beyond a ridiculous joke and is almost an insult, and is a tremendously exaggerated green smell set in sweet vanilla, especially the image of the first one hour is like a rustic man, dressed in green, from fedora to suit and shoes. Or an image like Dipsy in Teletubbies, surely dressed in all green.

As time goes by, the scent of leather combined with bitter galbanum is revealed. No, it's more like the smell of nasty sweat than leather. This is not luxurious leather at all, but rather a tired and pathetic way home of the country working class. And the tiny labdanum touch adds an impression of a cheap cigarette smell in a sweaty shirt.

Certenly this perfume is not good to wear (in my opinion), it is vulgar, and it will makes you feel unpleasant many times. But there is still the dry down. After the smell of sweat has finally disappeared into thin air, while the lingering of the exaggerated green smell remains, it suddenly becomes an antique, resinous, beautiful scent centered on opopanax and myrrh. This dry down cannot be explained by the word "beautiful" and would rather be described as "holy" or "sacred".

As if to compensate for the unfamiliar and eccentric prank of the opening part, the last scent of this perfume is so finely organized that it gives a different pleasure every time you wear it. Sometimes it's like a plain savory nuts, sometimes it's like very expensive vanilla chocolate, and sometimes it's like fresh fruit filled on a old truck what soiled by gasoline. But somewhere in all that impression, there is an air of idyllic or piety. Or you could say it's Catholic.

Like other perfumes in the Leather series, Italian Leather has excellent performance and lasts really long. Also, as I said earlier, this is for perfume otakus who have already experienced at least hundreds of perfumes. Every time I wear this, I feel ashamed and offended, but at the last I am struck with admiration. If this is not called art, what else is art?

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