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Italian flowers aka "leather"
Memo Paris and I, it wasn't a love story before. The Irish was ok, didn't meet my taste, the African is a nice spice scent, I had hoped for more leather. So now the Italian Leather with its leather accord, and this formulation alone gives an idea of where the journey is heading.
The fragrance starts very fresh green. This is due to the dominant tomato leaf and should not be confused with the tomato itself. The scent is very spicy green, slightly bitter, very slightly hot. But it is not only the tomato leaf that dominates in the beginning. The pepper supports the spiciness, the currant bud seems to provide tart freshness so that the tomato leaf becomes more bearable and the smell becomes more interesting by a nuance.
Gradually it becomes more harmonious. The tomato leaf is delicately surrounded by the iris, vanilla is not perceived as a fragrance but rather as an aura. Only towards the end is it really tangible. Soon the leather chord starts to take effect and I wonder if I would perceive it as a leather chord if I didn't know it? Obviously, the chord is built from the iris root, among other things. In any case, it remains in the background, building the foundation so that the other materials can show themselves. It actually smells very fine, there is another fruity-influenced note in it that I can't decipher. Very slightly it reminds me of preserved rhubarb marmalade, basically sugared rhubarb. For a distant comparison, I would use Tomo Vetiver from Annayake, which is grassier, fresher and less complex. But it has a leather-rhubarb note, and this note reminds me of Tomo. The difference is the creamy tomato leaf. Personally, I like this change; someone who consistently appreciates the green element in fragrances may be disappointed from here on.
This development continues consistently, so that in the end only sandalwood and varieties remain. It smells pleasantly creamy and sweet, with no trace of the leather accord and tomato leaf. Because I haven't even mentioned that yet; analogous to the withdrawal of the green ingredients, the leather accord also decays.
In general, a very experienced perfumer once told me that leather plays a rather subordinate role in memo fragrances, and that it is all about depicting scenarios. That may be, but the name of the fragrances is still misleading and so I have to honestly say that Memo Paris is not the first place to go for leather fragrances, at least so far. Nevertheless Italian Leather is a solid to good scent if you like this green touch. If Irish Leather is too algae-green because of the juniper, you might be picked up here.
Memo Paris with Cuirs Nomades I will be very happy to test in the future. The fragrances - even if you at least don't tempt me to buy them - are still interesting and of high quality, you have to keep that in mind, no matter if the fragrance appeals to you personally or not.