A few weeks ago I got a free sample of Alien Man and I was quite astonished about the trail I got right away the initial spray. As it turns out, it just doesn't smell like a MUGLER to me, which it's not a bad thing, yet you should not be biased and expecting kind of like the jasmine-based Alien, the candy floss and patchouli bomb of Angel or A*Men. It’s very smooth and has an addictive, creamy and herbal leather quality.
Full of contrasts, Alien Man radiates positive raw energy and develops through three different stages and vibes. It belongs to the aromatic, fougere, and herbal leather family. The olfactory tale starts with an enormous freshness of aromatic aniseed notes and reveals at the same time a backbone made of smoky bleech woody notes. With rich citrus and aromatic burst, it initially gives the impression of a classic aromatic cologne alike Armani Code or Dior Sauvage, but it doesn't and ain't a copy of those two. I get a blend of smoked and burnt woods, herbal dill, a bunch of anise in a sort of licorice, and a fruity apricot with citrus lemon for a while that burns off pretty quick. What is surprising is the addition of dill, a note that is detectable and very interesting but not off-putting, which gives a very green feel to the fragrance, including the burnt accord, which is so unusual in the head notes. Dill is one of the aromatic herbs I like most, especially when used together with pickle and salmon, which are not part of this scent, of course! In here, the very unique smell of this herb is softened some by the anise to make an eccentric but befitting aromatic awakening. Unlike others, beech wood has several other advantages, one of its famous properties is it odorless. Therefore, the smoked note is not related to any known wood, but it's just a burnt aroma that blends with the other top notes. An aromatic opening where the freshness of dill is contrasted by the smoothness of beech wood. Alien Man starts cool and fresh with a clean and crackling energy that I would describe as sporty. There is a grainy, solid texture to the opening accord that gives Alien Man a rugged, handsome vibe.
Very quickly, we transition to the heart thanks to a rich lavender note.
The true star of the show is Alien Man’s heart, which is a vivid leathery experience with a smoky essence. Cashmeran reveals itself with a piney yet leathery scent of freshly-cut wood, providing a supporting layer of creamy, hay-like woods. This accords well with osmanthus, a fruity yet musky oriental blossom reminiscent of apricot. Meantime, geraniums add a floral note before the birch tar emerges with an overt smoky extension to the wood and leather bouquet. Leather can often be harsh with an overtly smoky, tarry or fleshy character, however, this leather is the supplest and lightest one, a buttery smooth piece of leather. Together the cashmeran and leather merge to create an endless sense of softness.
Although the heart fades, it leaves a trace of the bird tar’s smokiness as we descend into the base. We first pick out just a hint of sweet vanilla thanks to a benzoin note. The benzoin interacts with musky labdanum and earthy patchouli in order to produce a white amber accord. After 6 hours the white amber comes through strong and changes this into a sweet, beautiful skin scent that mixes well with your natural odor. One cannot tell whether it is sweet, sour, warm or cold. It presents a whirlwind of contrasts that leave one guessing.
Ultimately, Alien Man is perfect for the autumn season thanks to its blend of aromatics, woods, and spices. There’s perfect harmony between warm and cool notes that capture the spirit of the season perfectly. Nevertheless, it will also perform quite well during the winter and wouldn't be too out of place during the spring. However, it’s certainly not a summer fragrance by any means. When it comes to the best time of day for wearing Alien Man, it’s very much a daytime fragrance. It feels rather appropriate for when the sun is at its peak but will lose effectiveness as it begins to set.
Meanwhile, the longevity is somewhere between poor and average. As such, you’ll need a travel atomizer for regular top-ups. Not the Thierry Mugler we know, much more approachable scent by the daring perfumery, a refreshing blend of smoky wood and rich spices.