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Very helpful Review
Re-interpretation or missing the point?
The original fragrance of this long line of ancestors - the original A*Men - is a matter of dispute between the spirits. Like hardly any other fragrance, the A*Men polarizes. One of my other passions is testing Scottish single malts. The distillery Laphroaig on the island of Islay, which produces a whisky that smells and tastes like tar, algae, campfires, peat and phenol, has coined the advertising slogan "You love it or you hate it". There is no better way to sum up the divided opinions about the rubber tar sultriness monster A*Men. One thing should be anticipated: I admire the audacity of the fragrance and its absolutely outstanding uniqueness, but I couldn't wear the powerful humming noise myself
Now, after the launch of the original fragrance in 1996, an almost endless number of Flanders came out, each dedicated to a specific fragrance and merging it with the fragrance DNA of their ancestor. Some of the flankers were able to keep the rude basic DNA in check and, thanks to the respective ingredients, were even able to move to a quite wonderful composition. So far, each of these flankers had remained a small genetic part of the stem holder - some were brilliant (Pure Malt, Pure Coffee, Pure Havanne), some good (Pure Tonka), others a weak performance (Kryptomint). With the last in this series, a meaningful reinterpretation of the first also ends for me. Kryptomint tried to help a pompously heavy smell somehow to freshness by mint. The final result was neither olfactory nor convincing in terms of performance.
But since I am a big fan, especially of Pure Malt, I wanted to test this new release of the year 2019 as soon as possible and ordered a bottle online, because it was not yet available in any perfumery. The colour of the flacon, as well as the listed fragrances let me hope, because I am a big Frahlingliebhaber.
The bottle and packaging are ingeniously made. Despite the always deficient spray head, to say the least, I like the rubberized flacons, which lie great in the hand. The uniformity of the entire line also makes itself very attractive in the fragrance shelf. So far, the color had always revealed something about the scent and was chosen appropriately.
Here, however, neither the title nor the colour match the selected aromas.
To what extent is Café Moccha the ultimate man? Then why is the bottle smurf blue?
But now to the fragrance itself: for the first time in the series of all the flanks I can no longer smell the unique A*Men DNA. The scent is independent and for me no flanker of this series. Although he is also a gourmand through and through, but without the patchouli heaviness that all others, some of them only had in their background.
Apart from the floppy naming and the choice of bottle, can at least the fragrance be convincing? I'm afraid I have to say no here too. Instead of Café Moccha I get a swath of a brew in my nose, which was available at the coffee machine during university times: Irish Coffee. While I myself despised this elixir of the devil like the holy water, one of my best friends enjoyed a cup of the sticky-sweet "hot drink" in the breaks between lectures, which has nothing to do with good coffee. The balsam fir makes the fragrance somewhat creamy and greasy. Bergamot is wishful thinking here! The fragrance starts for me sticky sweet and continues exactly the same way. Little change, little complexity, no depth. He also achieves the power of the original, let alone Pure Malt or Pure Havanne. After 6-7 hours Sense was.
I would have loved to use it as my autumn and winter fragrance for 2019, as I was looking for coffee scents anyway. Now will replace in Mancera's Aoud Café. The first fragrance that smells authentic of real coffee, at least for a short time.
In summary, this Ultimate Men is not only a slip for me after Kryptomint, but Mugler's perfumers seem to have strayed from the right path. Return to the original idea or stop riding the horse dead for marketing purposes! This one is not for the ultimate man (title seems to be copied from JPG anyway), but rather the ultimate fail.