AmyAmy
Reviews
AmyAmy
Translated
Show original
Very special
According to Wikipedia, Max Perttula, the head and nose behind the Max Joacim label, is the only perfumer in Finland. Finland is generally not a particularly perfumery-savvy country and even in Helsinki there are only a few small shops that carry this brand. Last year I had picked out the perfumery with the funny sounding name Meikkipussi, which probably means make-up bag, in the so-called Design District as a source of supply and I still vividly remember how there the friendly lady in the white coat said several times about "Suopursu", this fragrance is "special, very special", which sounded a little like a warning. Or was this just a misinterpretation on my part or only due to the lady's not so extensive English vocabulary? Anyway, "special" sounds very tempting to me!
"Suopursu" is the marsh porst, a white flowering plant that is still widespread in Scandinavia and other countries, but is on the red list of endangered plant species in many countries and is almost extinct in Germany. The marsh rust has been used as medicine for a long time, even today it is still hidden behind the homeopathic remedy Ledum. All parts of the plant are slightly poisonous and the ingestion may cause signs of poisoning on a not inconsiderable scale. Even staying in pores can allegedly cause intoxication, which is why the plant was once added to brew beer to increase the alcoholic effect.
Enough background information, but I simply find it quite exciting how the occupation with perfume expands the horizon again and again, especially in the field of botany. Other names of Sumpfporst are Ledum Pallustre, March Tea, Skvattram (these three names are also written on the packaging and the bottle) and Labrador Tea.
On the homepage "Suopursu" is supertitled with "swamp and forest" and that's quite good. In brief, I would describe "Suopursu" as (without weighting) 1) very fresh, watery, but without aquatic notes, 2) clean, but not soapy, 3) earthy, but not heavy, and 4) naturally with a variety of green notes. Points 2) and 3) seem to contradict each other, but that is my perception. The fresh notes are at first almost camphor-like and arouse lavender leaf and rosemary-like associations, the whole is very tingling, also in the sense of refreshing, peculiar and very special, indeed! Somehow this fragrance is also very Finnish, because on the one hand it takes the Nordic nature as a starting point, but on the other hand the overall result is strange and slightly slanting, also due to the addition of synthetic notes, which are certainly in here as well.
Unfortunately, I cannot judge whether this fragrance almost reflects the fragrance experience of the wildly growing marsh pore, which is characteristic of the Finnish summer. But at least I met the swamp porst in Helsinki, in the Finnish Museum of Natural History called Luonnontieteelli Museo. There the plant was introduced by means of a text and a photo and there was even a small bottle, at which one could sniff. But this brew was far from tempting, rather musty. So I prefer the aromatic and imaginative interpretation of the theme of Max Joacim!
"Suopursu" is the marsh porst, a white flowering plant that is still widespread in Scandinavia and other countries, but is on the red list of endangered plant species in many countries and is almost extinct in Germany. The marsh rust has been used as medicine for a long time, even today it is still hidden behind the homeopathic remedy Ledum. All parts of the plant are slightly poisonous and the ingestion may cause signs of poisoning on a not inconsiderable scale. Even staying in pores can allegedly cause intoxication, which is why the plant was once added to brew beer to increase the alcoholic effect.
Enough background information, but I simply find it quite exciting how the occupation with perfume expands the horizon again and again, especially in the field of botany. Other names of Sumpfporst are Ledum Pallustre, March Tea, Skvattram (these three names are also written on the packaging and the bottle) and Labrador Tea.
On the homepage "Suopursu" is supertitled with "swamp and forest" and that's quite good. In brief, I would describe "Suopursu" as (without weighting) 1) very fresh, watery, but without aquatic notes, 2) clean, but not soapy, 3) earthy, but not heavy, and 4) naturally with a variety of green notes. Points 2) and 3) seem to contradict each other, but that is my perception. The fresh notes are at first almost camphor-like and arouse lavender leaf and rosemary-like associations, the whole is very tingling, also in the sense of refreshing, peculiar and very special, indeed! Somehow this fragrance is also very Finnish, because on the one hand it takes the Nordic nature as a starting point, but on the other hand the overall result is strange and slightly slanting, also due to the addition of synthetic notes, which are certainly in here as well.
Unfortunately, I cannot judge whether this fragrance almost reflects the fragrance experience of the wildly growing marsh pore, which is characteristic of the Finnish summer. But at least I met the swamp porst in Helsinki, in the Finnish Museum of Natural History called Luonnontieteelli Museo. There the plant was introduced by means of a text and a photo and there was even a small bottle, at which one could sniff. But this brew was far from tempting, rather musty. So I prefer the aromatic and imaginative interpretation of the theme of Max Joacim!
3 Comments
Translated
Show original
Mood brightener
"Ectoplasm" was published for the first time on Halloween 2018 as a perfume, which is also connected with the name, which I need to explain. According to Wikipedia, this is a term from parapsychology that refers to a substance that allegedly emerges from the orifices of the body in a medium. Ectoplasm should be grey-white or pink, foamy or pulling light threads....
Actually, the name "Sun" would go much better with this fragrance if Lush didn't already have a fragrance of the same name. But while "Sun" is nice and pleasant, but on the other hand it is also a little pale and boring and, above all, attracts attention due to its low durability, "Ectoplasm" is a really sunny fragrance, very powerful and also has a much better shelf life.
"Ectoplasm" smells of citrus fruits, but these are not only hidden in the top note, they are always present, full, lush and juicy, grapefruit, orange citrus fruits and citrus peels. The whole thing is tempting, zesty and very lush-y.
One of the other fragrances hidden under the undefined ingredient "perfume" is, in my opinion, the tonka bean. I noticed it immediately the very first time I tested it and especially in the base it shows itself clearly. But although the tonka bean is not a fragrance I appreciate (especially when combined with heavy and sweet notes like vanilla), it fits very nicely here, and importantly, it is far from drawing the fragrance into the sweet sticky earth pressing, it always retains its sunny and appealing character.
The shelf life is really - as already briefly mentioned - excellent for an almost purely citric fragrance. Once sprayed on in the evening before going to bed (which may not be the best idea from an aromatherapeutic point of view, but Litsea cubeba is also said to have a relaxing effect), it is still clearly perceptible in the morning. But more recommendable is the use during the day.
This scent does not undergo any great development and one could now object "Isn't "Ectoplasm" a rather simple scent?". Yes, it may be, but it is as simple as it is beautiful and simply convincing. If you are a fan of juicy citrus scents, you will be able to enjoy them very much without having to be of simply knitted mind.
Actually, the name "Sun" would go much better with this fragrance if Lush didn't already have a fragrance of the same name. But while "Sun" is nice and pleasant, but on the other hand it is also a little pale and boring and, above all, attracts attention due to its low durability, "Ectoplasm" is a really sunny fragrance, very powerful and also has a much better shelf life.
"Ectoplasm" smells of citrus fruits, but these are not only hidden in the top note, they are always present, full, lush and juicy, grapefruit, orange citrus fruits and citrus peels. The whole thing is tempting, zesty and very lush-y.
One of the other fragrances hidden under the undefined ingredient "perfume" is, in my opinion, the tonka bean. I noticed it immediately the very first time I tested it and especially in the base it shows itself clearly. But although the tonka bean is not a fragrance I appreciate (especially when combined with heavy and sweet notes like vanilla), it fits very nicely here, and importantly, it is far from drawing the fragrance into the sweet sticky earth pressing, it always retains its sunny and appealing character.
The shelf life is really - as already briefly mentioned - excellent for an almost purely citric fragrance. Once sprayed on in the evening before going to bed (which may not be the best idea from an aromatherapeutic point of view, but Litsea cubeba is also said to have a relaxing effect), it is still clearly perceptible in the morning. But more recommendable is the use during the day.
This scent does not undergo any great development and one could now object "Isn't "Ectoplasm" a rather simple scent?". Yes, it may be, but it is as simple as it is beautiful and simply convincing. If you are a fan of juicy citrus scents, you will be able to enjoy them very much without having to be of simply knitted mind.
8 Comments
