AndreasK

I had a 10 ml test bottle of turquoise in the mail unsolicited today. Obviously I count there already to the regular clientele.

I don't like the Ambroxan note on the Dior Sauvage Edt and EdP. These two look to me like masculine mass-produced goods for women. Every second woman in the morning S-Bahn felt an Ambroxan cloud around her. With Dior Sauvage, the ambroxan hype has now spread to men. I don't like ambroxan scents. For me these are chemical mass articles, which are combined by light alternation on the basis of an apparently largely identical basis, until finally the combinatorial possibilities are exhausted at some point.

To the Dior Sauvage Perfume:

I don't perceive Ambroxan. In the above description of the ingredients there is also nothing about it. But this makes us wonder what justifies the name. A flanker as suggested is Dior Sauvage perfume not.
I take the scent when a spicy dimmed patchouli was. Patchouli because the earthy herbaceous note of it forms the basis. Dimmed, because the stabbing character like in Aramis, Aramis or Givenchy Gentlemen (1974) of Patchouli is missing. It is bounded by spicy aromatic opponents. This is the pepper and the citric components from the top note. Altogether I have a fresh, spicy and aromatic impression.

Dior Sauvage Parfum is smooth but without character. This seems to me to be the only parallel with the EdT and the EdP. It is unimpressive, does not hurt anyone, but does not cause storms of enthusiasm.

Apparently, Dior wanted to expand its moneymaker, the Dior Sauvage range, with another product variant. Does the vulture know why they left out the Ambroxan this time? But it didn't get any better. The Sauvage series also has no representative with the perfume flanker that is with the character scents of the house (Homme series, Fahrenheit EdT and the Eau Sauvage series) is a breath might be called.

Today I came across a Guerlain Homme EdP variant among the Turquoises, which must be a current reformulation. The bottle is still the same, but the liquid is now grey instead of green.

The fragrance seems to me unchanged in composition, but reduced to about 20% of the fragrance intensity. The 2009 version was a violent bump Mojito. What I tested today is just a replica of it. In a blog about Thierry Wasser here at Parfumo (https://www.parfumo.de/Benutzer/Precious/Blog/Eintrag/Thierry_Wasser_Interview_vom_21_Juni_2017) I had already triggered a controversy about the change at Guerlain. My experience today seems to me to be a new proof of dilution and increasing streamliness losing tradition.

According to Parfumo, the Homme EdP is from 2009; no reformulation can be found here. At fragrantica.com the fragrance is listed as originating in 2016. And at basenotes.net it is from 2008 and with a different bottle. Nowhere are there indications of a reformulation.

What the hell's going on?

I don't want to be big on the scent itself. It is a spicy, aromatic-intensive, richly accentuated piquant scent. It is well done and spontaneously inspires. Sillage and endurance are above average.

What's the problem?

I got L'Homme Idéal Intense today in a mall for the first time. And in my initial enthusiasm while snooping - I had barely walked the 40 meters from the turquoises to a men's outfitter - the killer question pushed itself into consciousness: How do you know that? You know that!

The answer came to me a few minutes later: Man in Black from Bvlgari minus rum.

Guerlain is something to worry about. Thierry water must go away!

I'm sorry to have to say this in such clarity. It is clearly a danger not to develop a great tradition further and to freeze it into a museum. But disorientation is also an abyss in which destruction awaits.