Apicius
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A Different Approach to Vetiver
Encre Noire is quite a rough guy within the group of vetiver colognes. It gets lots of attention but I couldn't handle its characteristic ink-like admixture which I suppose goes back to the use of cashmere wood. Completely different, however, is Encre Noire Sport. Here, “Sport” stands for a lighter style that wants to please and thus has to avoid eccentric shapes.
All too often the dark, green fragrance note vetiver is the base of ambitious fougères with a firm profile. In my opinion, we should also pay attention to the lighter interpretations. The few examples show that a simple cologne gets a special alignment if this magic note is involved.
In case of Encre Noire Sport the first thing we encounter is a well-done bergamot and graprefruit accord that really suits a “Sport” fragrance. I noticed that this notes complex was fine, harmonic and well-balanced. The unpleasant synthetic appeal of many other sport colognes was missing. It wasn't distinctly aquatic either. Approaching the base, a rather dry, transparent and puristic vetiver note appears which darkens it in a pleasant way. I don't find it appropriate to describe Encre Noire Sport in the sense of a three-step, complex scent development. This would be beyond the limits of this nice cologne.
Sport fragrances as such are candidates for the warmer seasons. Many a fragrance lover, however, would see vetiver located in winter. The light, citric colognes and the sports fragrances let images of sunny days appear in our minds. But a transparent vetiver note like in EN Sport incorporates the cool shadow that a a roof of green leaves or chilly masonry may provide on such a day. I do not want to miss this aspect of summer.
Let's take a look around. I am highly satisfied with Guerlain's Vetiver Sport aka Frozen Fragrance/Eau Glacée. But that is dicontinued. Prada's Infusion de Vetiver contained too much “Infusion” and not enough vetiver to be counted in (also discontinued btw). Carven's “Vétiver” with its modern, puristic appeal could go as a light vetiver – at least compared to “Le Vétiver” from the same house. But the only comparable fragrance that comes to my mind is Annick Goutal's new „Les Colognes – Vétiver“ . One has to criticise that the original vetiver was discontinued with the launch of the light version.
I really would like to promote Encre Noir Sport and this more than scarcely filled niche of light vetivers. Encre Noire Sport could be a discreet companion to those who appreciate the minor forms within in the world of perfume.
All too often the dark, green fragrance note vetiver is the base of ambitious fougères with a firm profile. In my opinion, we should also pay attention to the lighter interpretations. The few examples show that a simple cologne gets a special alignment if this magic note is involved.
In case of Encre Noire Sport the first thing we encounter is a well-done bergamot and graprefruit accord that really suits a “Sport” fragrance. I noticed that this notes complex was fine, harmonic and well-balanced. The unpleasant synthetic appeal of many other sport colognes was missing. It wasn't distinctly aquatic either. Approaching the base, a rather dry, transparent and puristic vetiver note appears which darkens it in a pleasant way. I don't find it appropriate to describe Encre Noire Sport in the sense of a three-step, complex scent development. This would be beyond the limits of this nice cologne.
Sport fragrances as such are candidates for the warmer seasons. Many a fragrance lover, however, would see vetiver located in winter. The light, citric colognes and the sports fragrances let images of sunny days appear in our minds. But a transparent vetiver note like in EN Sport incorporates the cool shadow that a a roof of green leaves or chilly masonry may provide on such a day. I do not want to miss this aspect of summer.
Let's take a look around. I am highly satisfied with Guerlain's Vetiver Sport aka Frozen Fragrance/Eau Glacée. But that is dicontinued. Prada's Infusion de Vetiver contained too much “Infusion” and not enough vetiver to be counted in (also discontinued btw). Carven's “Vétiver” with its modern, puristic appeal could go as a light vetiver – at least compared to “Le Vétiver” from the same house. But the only comparable fragrance that comes to my mind is Annick Goutal's new „Les Colognes – Vétiver“ . One has to criticise that the original vetiver was discontinued with the launch of the light version.
I really would like to promote Encre Noir Sport and this more than scarcely filled niche of light vetivers. Encre Noire Sport could be a discreet companion to those who appreciate the minor forms within in the world of perfume.
Another Gem about to Go
Hurry up, if you want to have Noble Vetiver! It is not listed any longer at the Chopard site, but you still might find some of it on the net for a snippet price.
Chopard's Noble Vetiver is a little mainstream gem. However, only perfume users with some experience might be able to handle it correctly.
Like so many other mainstream gent's colognes, Noble Vetiver is sharp and bitter on skin. So, sniffing it directly on the hand where you sprayed it is not a good idea. The usual way of testing a perfume at the shop will very likely make people put it back on the shelf. Assumed, mainstream fragrances are aimed at the less frequent and less experiences customers - I wonder how this kind of colognes sell at all.
The fragrance of Noble Vetiver establishes itself in a distance of 10 inches and more. It has some sillage, and it only works out in its sillage.
Noble Vetiver is not a classic Vetiver, in spite of its name. Vetiver is detectable as one note among others. It colours this woody fragrance with a dark green shade but it works from behind. The main character of Noble Vetiver, however, is woody-aromatic.
The top note is a surprise. The citruses used here are aromatic in a very special way. I feel reminded at the taste and scent of Pepsi and Coke! Such an accord is very rare, both in niche and mainstream perfumery. The Atlas Cedar set "Alla corte del Re" by Nobile 1942 comes to my mind, with its beautiful colognes "Cola" and "Robinson". Having Mark Buxton listed as a perfumer, I have to think about "Wood and Absinth" from his own collection. Both fragrances seem to share the same base structure: Two woody fragrances, with discreet vetiver notes providing an elegant, distached and indeed noble touch plus a cola style aromatic accord defining the perfume's individuality. Both fragrances share the clary sage in the heart for a very welcome herbaceousness.
Wood and Absinth is niche, Noble Vetiver is not. Buxton's own fragrance IMHO additionally introduces an oriental touch that is left out in Noble Vetiver. In doing so, Noble Vetiver is the more accessible fragrance (if you know how to) as it is closer to the clichée of a typical man's cologne.
One thing I find hard to describe is a certain physical touch especially in the heart of Noble Vetiver. It is in relation to the cola impression, and it provides something like a near presence of a man's body. I like that, it is sexy!
Listed base notes of Barenia leather and tobacco arouse expectations that are maybe not quite met. For me, this is one of the usual woody-ambery mainsteam bases, but brilliantly refined by vetiver and the aromatic vibes that keep Noble Vetiver in a firm grip for a long time.
Noble Vetiver deserves to be remembered. Blind buy recommended!
Chopard's Noble Vetiver is a little mainstream gem. However, only perfume users with some experience might be able to handle it correctly.
Like so many other mainstream gent's colognes, Noble Vetiver is sharp and bitter on skin. So, sniffing it directly on the hand where you sprayed it is not a good idea. The usual way of testing a perfume at the shop will very likely make people put it back on the shelf. Assumed, mainstream fragrances are aimed at the less frequent and less experiences customers - I wonder how this kind of colognes sell at all.
The fragrance of Noble Vetiver establishes itself in a distance of 10 inches and more. It has some sillage, and it only works out in its sillage.
Noble Vetiver is not a classic Vetiver, in spite of its name. Vetiver is detectable as one note among others. It colours this woody fragrance with a dark green shade but it works from behind. The main character of Noble Vetiver, however, is woody-aromatic.
The top note is a surprise. The citruses used here are aromatic in a very special way. I feel reminded at the taste and scent of Pepsi and Coke! Such an accord is very rare, both in niche and mainstream perfumery. The Atlas Cedar set "Alla corte del Re" by Nobile 1942 comes to my mind, with its beautiful colognes "Cola" and "Robinson". Having Mark Buxton listed as a perfumer, I have to think about "Wood and Absinth" from his own collection. Both fragrances seem to share the same base structure: Two woody fragrances, with discreet vetiver notes providing an elegant, distached and indeed noble touch plus a cola style aromatic accord defining the perfume's individuality. Both fragrances share the clary sage in the heart for a very welcome herbaceousness.
Wood and Absinth is niche, Noble Vetiver is not. Buxton's own fragrance IMHO additionally introduces an oriental touch that is left out in Noble Vetiver. In doing so, Noble Vetiver is the more accessible fragrance (if you know how to) as it is closer to the clichée of a typical man's cologne.
One thing I find hard to describe is a certain physical touch especially in the heart of Noble Vetiver. It is in relation to the cola impression, and it provides something like a near presence of a man's body. I like that, it is sexy!
Listed base notes of Barenia leather and tobacco arouse expectations that are maybe not quite met. For me, this is one of the usual woody-ambery mainsteam bases, but brilliantly refined by vetiver and the aromatic vibes that keep Noble Vetiver in a firm grip for a long time.
Noble Vetiver deserves to be remembered. Blind buy recommended!
Barbershop from a Distance
"Morph innovates and transforms everything there was in the past." - If I understand their statement correctly, we can expect modern interpretations of styles in perfumery that were popular some decades ago.
My first acqaintance with this brand matches with such a concept, it is a contemporary interpretation of a barbershop cologne.
Pure Soul starts with a very nice aldehydic note - reminiscent of the hairspray that lingered in the barber shops of our childhood. I like this note, and I like that it is the defining elemment of this perfume. Although strong in the head notes it reaches down to the base, and so we can enjoy it a long time.
Then come the flowers - basically a rosy note, and it fits in well. After two or three hours, the base is reached which means that Pure Soul becomes a bit powdery. A dark, herbal-like note that has accompanied the aldehydic tone fades away, and the fragrance melts into oriental creaminess.
Well done at first sight, but a romantic look at the past may not work out as long as this past is not completely gone. And it isn't in case of Pure Soul!
Pure Soul has to be compared with the still available Royal Copenhagen from 1970. Both fragrances share the same sort of aldehydes up to a point where they can be regarded as fragrance twins.
Whereas the Danish predecessor incorporates the whole complexness of scent that sophisticated perfumes used to have in that past, Pure Soul follows the contemporary puristic style. The flowery part of the heart is basically a rosy note for depth and beauty. As a contrast to it, there is a leaner and darker note which could be called herbaceous. It balances the flowery part very well.
The base note is a bit disappointing: the faint whiff of powdery musk with a slight creamy- vanillic touch cannot stand up against the robust head and heart. So, let's call it an Eau de Toilette.
Not too bad so far but one thing destroys it all: the use of a certain presumably synthetic ingredient for the rosy smell. I think it is the same stuff that was used in Cartier's gent's cologne Déclaration d'un Soir. It has a monstrous longevity of its own as soon as it gets into contact with clothes or other textiles. Fortunately, I did not test Pure Soul at home, and also my clothes are washable. No perfume should have such an effect. I urgently recommend to take the necessary precautions if you come across Pure Soul.
So, what about a blind buy of Royal Copenhagen instead? Unlike Pure Soul, also the price tag is from the past!
My first acqaintance with this brand matches with such a concept, it is a contemporary interpretation of a barbershop cologne.
Pure Soul starts with a very nice aldehydic note - reminiscent of the hairspray that lingered in the barber shops of our childhood. I like this note, and I like that it is the defining elemment of this perfume. Although strong in the head notes it reaches down to the base, and so we can enjoy it a long time.
Then come the flowers - basically a rosy note, and it fits in well. After two or three hours, the base is reached which means that Pure Soul becomes a bit powdery. A dark, herbal-like note that has accompanied the aldehydic tone fades away, and the fragrance melts into oriental creaminess.
Well done at first sight, but a romantic look at the past may not work out as long as this past is not completely gone. And it isn't in case of Pure Soul!
Pure Soul has to be compared with the still available Royal Copenhagen from 1970. Both fragrances share the same sort of aldehydes up to a point where they can be regarded as fragrance twins.
Whereas the Danish predecessor incorporates the whole complexness of scent that sophisticated perfumes used to have in that past, Pure Soul follows the contemporary puristic style. The flowery part of the heart is basically a rosy note for depth and beauty. As a contrast to it, there is a leaner and darker note which could be called herbaceous. It balances the flowery part very well.
The base note is a bit disappointing: the faint whiff of powdery musk with a slight creamy- vanillic touch cannot stand up against the robust head and heart. So, let's call it an Eau de Toilette.
Not too bad so far but one thing destroys it all: the use of a certain presumably synthetic ingredient for the rosy smell. I think it is the same stuff that was used in Cartier's gent's cologne Déclaration d'un Soir. It has a monstrous longevity of its own as soon as it gets into contact with clothes or other textiles. Fortunately, I did not test Pure Soul at home, and also my clothes are washable. No perfume should have such an effect. I urgently recommend to take the necessary precautions if you come across Pure Soul.
So, what about a blind buy of Royal Copenhagen instead? Unlike Pure Soul, also the price tag is from the past!
Apicius 10 years ago
Grabazzi Ragazzi!
A very special niche is covered by the US perfume house Gendarme. They mainly focus on gents' colognes, and within that frame they try to attract those men who do not want to smell too intense and too perfumed. No matter which fragrance family, the Gendarme colognes are usually very light, if not to say - diluted.
Their lean and clean bottle design reflects that style - as if they were selling a sort of men only Clavin Klein perfume. Let's call it understatement!
I bought Grabazzi about four years ago. At that time, it was quite a riddle for me. The overall impression was light, a little flowery with woods and maybe a light musk. But to be honest, I had no idea. In fact, the overall impression was that of a monolith. Despite all the notes given I could not detect much and my impressions were vague. The least I could say was that the cola berry that is mentioned on the website somehow relates Grabazzi to the idea of having a coke: the prickle of that beverage was also in it, together with an aroma that I found just as outstanding as that of cola.
At some point, I asked myself if it might just contain one single fragrant ingredient. Luca Turin mentions in one of his books that there was a scent ingredient that could also be found in turntable needle cleansers. When I read this, it occured to me that Grabazzi was just that. I remember the smell of the needle cleanser that I had had many years ago - it appeared to be the same. (BTW, the smell of this soapy-aromatic chemical was very pleasing and has stayed in my memory).
Today, I found out that I was wrong. Grabazzi has been in my collection for four years now, and it has started to age a bit. Suddenly, the single smell impression is gone, I do smell seperate notes. I smell aldehydes and carnation as leading notes. For me, this puts Grabazzi into the family of the good old aromatic fougeres, a true Barbershop fragrance. But unlike Kouros, there is only a whiff of carnation and jasmine. Grabazzi is not a stinker!
Many people avoid any Kouros-like opulence and animality, for good reason. But by transferring this style into a faint aura, Grabazzi is something unique. The idea of presenting powerhouse fragrance notes in the faintest possible way is brilliant! I strongly recommend to test Grabazzi, especially to those perfumistas who can appreciate a discreet fragrance. Personally, I overapply to get out some sillage and longevity.
Their lean and clean bottle design reflects that style - as if they were selling a sort of men only Clavin Klein perfume. Let's call it understatement!
I bought Grabazzi about four years ago. At that time, it was quite a riddle for me. The overall impression was light, a little flowery with woods and maybe a light musk. But to be honest, I had no idea. In fact, the overall impression was that of a monolith. Despite all the notes given I could not detect much and my impressions were vague. The least I could say was that the cola berry that is mentioned on the website somehow relates Grabazzi to the idea of having a coke: the prickle of that beverage was also in it, together with an aroma that I found just as outstanding as that of cola.
At some point, I asked myself if it might just contain one single fragrant ingredient. Luca Turin mentions in one of his books that there was a scent ingredient that could also be found in turntable needle cleansers. When I read this, it occured to me that Grabazzi was just that. I remember the smell of the needle cleanser that I had had many years ago - it appeared to be the same. (BTW, the smell of this soapy-aromatic chemical was very pleasing and has stayed in my memory).
Today, I found out that I was wrong. Grabazzi has been in my collection for four years now, and it has started to age a bit. Suddenly, the single smell impression is gone, I do smell seperate notes. I smell aldehydes and carnation as leading notes. For me, this puts Grabazzi into the family of the good old aromatic fougeres, a true Barbershop fragrance. But unlike Kouros, there is only a whiff of carnation and jasmine. Grabazzi is not a stinker!
Many people avoid any Kouros-like opulence and animality, for good reason. But by transferring this style into a faint aura, Grabazzi is something unique. The idea of presenting powerhouse fragrance notes in the faintest possible way is brilliant! I strongly recommend to test Grabazzi, especially to those perfumistas who can appreciate a discreet fragrance. Personally, I overapply to get out some sillage and longevity.
Cologne Herbs from Italy
For a few years now one high quality perfume house after another has been starting its own Eau de Cologne series: winsome, light, accessible - this is the concept. Sometimes these light colognes cite the ideas of the much more unwieldy and difficult niche perfumes of the regular lines.
Basically, I am sceptic. Why should one complement or even replace a fragrance of character with a mild breeze? Just take a look at what Annick Goutal did to their Vétiver!
However, we may have to judge differently if the the fragrance that such a Colonia points at has a bit too much of "character" - so much character indeed that it gets panned at Parfumo. I am talking about Profumi del Forte's exceptional perfume "Tirrenico". Its aquatic and mossy appearance was being commented as "port basin" and "fish market". But with Colonia del Forte 1475 this house has introduced a tame and gentle alternative.
The pyramids of those two fragrances stand in the same vicinity: with salt and aquatic notes, and with oakmoss. Nevertheless, 1475 is very much different. The focus is not on the salty-aqatic aspect but on tender, green-herbaceous notes. They dominate the head and transfer right down into the base which is quickly reached. Aquatic and mossy aspects provide only a slight note of freshness - not enough for a strong sea breeze.
Also, the citruses in the top is conducted very gently so the mild greenish appeal will not be overwhelmed. I specially like the somewhat citric and ethereal note of ginger joining in. In mainstream perfumery, the use of this note marks the better Sport and Summer Edition perfumes for me, such as Burberry Sport Men and Sport Ice for Men.
So, an etherous, hovering impression defines the character of 1475. According to the label "Colonia" are sillage and longevity. Only in the top notes this fragrance is fully present, if munificiently applied. It fades quickly, and as soon as 2 hours are over one may re-apply. Considered this, the flacon size of 120ml / 4oz is okay.
No neroli at all and very little lemon: 1475 is to be found completely on the green-herbal side of the Eau de Cologne spectrum. Nevertheless, it is mild, transparent and light. A gently summer breeze caressing your skin, a clear and mighty pretty view on a late summer lanscape - I like this fragrance and the pictures it evokes. 1475 is a recommendable addition to every collection of classic Eau de Colognes.
Basically, I am sceptic. Why should one complement or even replace a fragrance of character with a mild breeze? Just take a look at what Annick Goutal did to their Vétiver!
However, we may have to judge differently if the the fragrance that such a Colonia points at has a bit too much of "character" - so much character indeed that it gets panned at Parfumo. I am talking about Profumi del Forte's exceptional perfume "Tirrenico". Its aquatic and mossy appearance was being commented as "port basin" and "fish market". But with Colonia del Forte 1475 this house has introduced a tame and gentle alternative.
The pyramids of those two fragrances stand in the same vicinity: with salt and aquatic notes, and with oakmoss. Nevertheless, 1475 is very much different. The focus is not on the salty-aqatic aspect but on tender, green-herbaceous notes. They dominate the head and transfer right down into the base which is quickly reached. Aquatic and mossy aspects provide only a slight note of freshness - not enough for a strong sea breeze.
Also, the citruses in the top is conducted very gently so the mild greenish appeal will not be overwhelmed. I specially like the somewhat citric and ethereal note of ginger joining in. In mainstream perfumery, the use of this note marks the better Sport and Summer Edition perfumes for me, such as Burberry Sport Men and Sport Ice for Men.
So, an etherous, hovering impression defines the character of 1475. According to the label "Colonia" are sillage and longevity. Only in the top notes this fragrance is fully present, if munificiently applied. It fades quickly, and as soon as 2 hours are over one may re-apply. Considered this, the flacon size of 120ml / 4oz is okay.
No neroli at all and very little lemon: 1475 is to be found completely on the green-herbal side of the Eau de Cologne spectrum. Nevertheless, it is mild, transparent and light. A gently summer breeze caressing your skin, a clear and mighty pretty view on a late summer lanscape - I like this fragrance and the pictures it evokes. 1475 is a recommendable addition to every collection of classic Eau de Colognes.
