April22Bee

April22Bee

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April22Bee 2 years ago 31 18
6
Bottle
7
Sillage
8
Longevity
9.5
Scent
Translated Show original Show translation
Homage to cedar wood
Dear all. Today I would like to introduce you again another Serge Lutens,which I could test.namely it is about the fragrance " Féminité du bois" by Serge Lutens from 2009.

He is probably considered the successor to the Shiseido fragrance, which was also called feminité du bois and comes from the year 1992, by the same perfumers mind you, serge lutens and Christopher sheldrake.

Now let's talk about the SL edition from 2009, this oriental woody fragrance has conjured images in me so it is additionally worthy of comment . For me, this kind of perfume, which trigger images, emotions, etc, is an expression of high perfume art.
And that is also what Serge Lutems fragrances are so peculiar:
The real art lies in a Serge Lutens perfume not in the mere mixing of individual ingredients, but in the olfactory capture of an experience or feeling.
Whether the fragrance ultimately pleases or not,is a matter of personal taste. Great I find it, however, when I understand the idea behind a fragrance apart from my personal taste when smelling, when the idea becomes tangible and it suddenly makes sense why it smells, how it smells....you know what I mean....exactly that is what makes a good perfume for me and something that makes the thing highly interesting for me personally.
So also here....

In this one, the fragrance notes are:

Beeswax, clove, honey, cardamom, musk, orange blossom, peach, plum, rose, vanilla, violet, ylang-ylang, cedar, cinnamon

iNGREDIENTS.

I was a little irritated at first sniffing, because I did not really know which direction the fragrance would take, although I already knew that wood awaits me....

The dominant fragrance note is cedar wood, which is found throughout the fragrance in such incredibly beautiful company that you want to hide from Serge Lutens. The so-called homage to the cedar wood in my eyes, is embraced by clove, beeswax + honey.
According to research, the fragrance is based on a 60% woody note. The is clearly to sniff.

The wood note is dominant over the whole time, but already set after 10 minutes pleasantly warm honey notes and beeswax notes, which reminds me again of my Morocco vacation or A day trip to Berlin's Oriental Garden in the Gardens of the World.

The carpenter's workshops in Morocco exude exactly this typical smell when processing cedar wood, which exudes the perfume of Serge Lutens, so that I see myself inevitably in a room surrounded by cedar wood stand. With these images before my eyes, the fragrance becomes almost haptic...

Anyone who has been in cedar paneled rooms,knows this particular scent and how the perfume smells. The honey and beeswax notes embrace and do not interfere.Vanilla notes accompany and add a slight sweetness.

As it progresses, other fragrance notes are added again and again alternately,so that it smells sometimes of plum, vanilla or cinnamon; otherwise, the scent remains largely unchanged, which I find quite pleasant,that no big surprises await me.

The scent is rather close to the body,holds on me but over several hours consistently.

Who woody-oriental fragrances or at all the scent of cedar like, comes here fully at his expense and should sniff times at the Wässerchen.

In my eyes, the fragrance is absolutely unisex wearable.

Even if I find the fragrance insanely interesting, I do not know yet whether he really belongs to me.ambre sultan, on the other hand, was allowed to move in quickly with me.
Either way, this Serge Lutens is also a real work of art, that much is said.

Thanks for reading.
18 Comments
April22Bee 3 years ago 39 27
8
Bottle
7
Sillage
8
Longevity
8
Scent
Translated Show original Show translation
Surprisingly different and challenging
"Jicky"...Who are you, I thought to myself when I was able to join a Guerlain masterclass last year.

The fragrance from the year 1889, which is produced since then continuously, splits the minds and is in my opinion already rather what for the very hard-boiled Guerlain fans. So "Jicky" was traded as the first "modern perfume" in the world, which combines complex aromas and beguiled women and men alike.
In the master class training of guerlain I have learned, among other things, that at that time for the first time in the world of perfumes a synthetic molecule - namely the so-called "vanillin" was used.

The smell was accepted by gentlemen immediately, women showed up at first rather astonished, before also these could inspire themselves for the smell.that lasted however a while.
I think I belong to the circle of ladies from the year 1889,because also to me Jicky appears as a difficult candidate...he pleases but nevertheless well,because he is just so refreshingly different.

JICKY, so promising the name, so is also a story underlying the fragrance and that is that aimé guerlain, so it is said at least, was inspired by a hopeless love from the study time. The fragrance owes its name to the very lady who remained in Aimé's memory. Coincidentally, jicky was also the name of his nephew Jaques, affectionately so named.

Jicky is a contrasting fragrance,which I find rather unpleasant in the first half hour.From the citrus top notes bergamot, mandarin, lemon and rosemary I actually smell nothing,at least not at the beginning....denn the fragrance builds up with me in reverse order.he starts with the base and ends with me the top note....very strange for me and at the same time fascinating.The heart note is very spicy,unfolds through the strong base but not very at me.Opulent are leather,balsamic notes,incense and civet.

After three quarters of an hour, the citrusy, warm, vanilla accord fights its way to the front and the fragrance becomes rounder and more harmonious.
The fragrance is truly rich in contrast.by the different components unfolds the fragrance on each differently, at least I could determine that, because I have sprayed him on different people.
It is fascinating how seemingly so different and contradictory notes can unite into one fragrance. The mysterious love of aimé guerlain, must have been a versatile woman,because the fragrance is truly diverse: sensual,animalic,lovely,fresh and a little mysterious and magical.

sillage and projection are good.the durability I would describe as überdurchschnittlch.
So chapeau for over 100 years of perfume history. A test is therefore worthwhile in any case.

Thanks for reading
27 Comments
April22Bee 3 years ago 47 21
9
Bottle
6
Sillage
7
Longevity
8.5
Scent
Translated Show original Show translation
Like a day at the seaside...
Today I would like to dedicate myself to a Guerlain fragrance, which once again comes from the pen of the master perfumer thierry water.

Just as coconut Fizz also, each AA fragrance combines the freshness of an Eau de Cologne.
WHAT ALL ALLEGORIA fragrances have in common and is often criticized is the short shelf life.to this I can insofar interject, THAT guerlain this had fully intended. I had once the opportunity to participate in a small perfume training at Guerlain. In this one had presented among other things also the AA and explained that aqua allegoria fragrances are designed not to hold long, but up to four times a day should be sprayed.after breakfast, at lunch, in the afternoon and in the evening.
The perfumer wanted to capture a scent of an early morning when the world is still asleep and only slowly awakening.The idea came during a morning ride on horseback.Somewhere outside great bustle,in the middle of nature,where its own haze is in the air,which is very clear and moist and fresh.which is unadulterated,because the world is still awakening.
This fresh, light fragrance, thierry water wanted to capture in his AA flakons, a fragrance that does not develop large, but reminiscent of dew, clarity and is invigorating. He should give the wearer at any time of day to feel enveloped in the haze of this morning fragrance.

To coconut fizz itself I must say, even if he grds. already rather a summer scent is, he fits strangely well in all other seasons. I layer him for example with the flora cherrysia or the orange soleia.

coconut fizz is, Like a day at the sea, water in the sunlight, sandy beach under your feet, Blue sky.

Immediately after spraying me a fresh clear scent of coconut water, which seems slightly exotic and thanks to the bergamot is tangy.The freshness is maintained throughout the time, the environment sniffs with pleasure once more.

The coconut note of the top note is not too dominant or in the foreground in the heart and base notes, as in some other fragrances. Instead, it is very well balanced with the other components and yet perceptible throughout. A really nice, light mix with a subtle floral note in the finish.

So who can make friends with the fragrance concept of the AA series and accepts the low durability, should invest at least in one of the bottles.

Thanks for reading!
21 Comments
April22Bee 3 years ago 22 22
7
Bottle
6
Sillage
6
Longevity
5.5
Scent
Translated Show original Show translation
Very sad.....no meditative tea ceremony
Have received the fragrance as a fragrance sample and was as a tea and matcha fan totally excited about the implementation of the new replica fragrance.

To take one thing in advance:
The fragrance is basically not badly made, but the theme has been totally missed here.

Instead of matcha meditation and a Japanese tea ceremony, you get a flowery powdery-sweet fragrance that seriously misses tea moments. As a true matcha fan, I perceive this component on me little to none. Very very pity.

At the very beginning, it has a slight resemblance to Winter palace (memo paris), but the fragrance is carried more by the citrus components of bergamot and tangerine.the change to the flowery takes place quite quickly and then the first teeeindruck is already passé.
jasmine and O-flower are then main actor, powder joins them and at the latest at this point you wonder as a wearer, what the title of the fragrance wants to have in common with the fragrance itself.

Woody components I do not smell at all.The
Base is dominated by white chocolate.

We note:
The geisha is gone, the ceremony cancelled, understandable, let her serve chocolate with the matcha....

for real tea fans,looking for another authentic tea scent,promising tart moments,matcha meditation is not really suitable.

rather feminine than unisex

Durability sillage are fine.

Had the fragrance had a different theme to the subject,no idea......maybe "afternoon tea at Rapunzel".....would not have been so disappointed expectations and the rating would have been better.

Thanks for reading and try your luck quiet with the fragrance.maybe you have more luck with the Matcha.
22 Comments
April22Bee 3 years ago 18 11
7
Bottle
5
Sillage
5
Longevity
7
Scent
Translated Show original Show translation
Torn...
I take in advance, that I had high expectations of the fragrance and I'm ambivalent from the test go out, after I had a sample.

For me, this is absolutely no unisex, but a pure herrenduft.
If I classify it as a pure men's fragrance, I find it top.
As a unisex fragrance is mint&tonic in my eyes absolute flop.

To the smell:
It is a very vibrant and invigorating fragrance, that much is said, which smells in the first moment directly after spraying, however, after aftershave and therefore absolutely masculine.....

When the first alcohol has evaporated, fortunately the notes of lime, mint and citrus notes and tangerine come through, but do not completely displace the first impression of the aftershave.

The problem: my nose, which clearly perceives aftershave, gets the images from the head - namely a glass of refreshing tonic water with mint leaf not quite together with the aftershave.

My expectations of "mint and tonic" was actually, that I get here a nice unisex fragrance that smells like a popular long drink a la gin & tonic or a mojito, which sprays lightness and fun and sun and beach and which is completely gender-neutral from the scent.

I was also hoping for a slightly more exciting aroma table.

The fragrance starts and remains rather masculine, which is why he is out for me personally, although the aftershave note disappears over time more and more, which makes the fragrance for women grds portable, if you bring a little patience and it likes to like herber.
I have yes also quite herber fragrances in the assortment, the yulong of Armani privee, but the is really unisex for me and you get what it says: tea.

Mint&tonic delivers indeed mint, but just not so, as I hoped.
suitable for the really warm summer days,because the scent is very invigorating and refreshes.

On a modern man I can imagine the fragrance quite right, the fragrance is not intrusive, but delicate, elegant, pulsating, attractive, interesting and somehow mysterious. Would I smell the fragrance on a man, I would say he has done everything right.

But on me as a woman, but that is really disappointing.that fits zero.I really have the feeling, I would have me in the parfümregal vergriffen.

From the durability I was but already disappointed.after 4 hours I smell already nothing more.

For a fragrance in this price segment, this is a very weak performance which in turn does not justify this price.

For friends of long drinks, it can still be worthwhile to sniff times, but I strongly advise against a blind purchase
11 Comments
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