AquamonzaAquamonza's Perfume Reviews

06/06/2018
2 Awards
If it wasn’t sprayed on me without warning or warming words, I would hardly have experienced this fragrance: The note "Cocoa”, especially when prominently displayed in the perfume name, usually leads me safely and widely around the fragrance to the next exit.

From the point of view of a cocoa lover, my experience apparently is reversed: sandwiched between chili and cardamom, the bean reveals its true, pristine, nesquick-free beauty. What is, for example, an interesting counterpoint to a noble citrusy-woody-spicy convention like in „L'Instant de Guerlain pour Homme“, becomes an unpretentious choir member.

As interesting as I often initially find cocoa notes in perfumes: Curiosity regularly gets the "interesting" with a petrified face . Why? As already mentioned in other comments several times, "chocolate" is frequently expected with "cocoa", and this gourmand note I usually feel as a chocolate mustache in the face of a scent.

In the process, I experience "Cacao Aztèque" essentially as initially light spicy; in particular, the peppery notes and undeclared chili set the prelude ("Series 2: Red - Harissa" sends greetings), which are already beautifully grounded by cardamom and the dry cocoa. In the further course, I perceive floral notes as only slightly independent - at best they accept the melody line imperceptibly, under which the increasingly woody notes already prepare the Drydown.

But that can get a bit too somber.

Remedy if necessary, the layering with a citrus-fruity and / or light-woody fellow who has little solo ambitions. I was recommended there Rojas "Elysium", which I have felt until then as pretty faceless - it was then suitably great; but certainly there are also far less wallet-busting alternatives.


11/07/2017
3 Awards
“Ladies and gentlemen, we are tasting the last perfumalt of the evening. I see that now the last ones have come back. – No, no, you’re welcome; following the tasting of Kilian’s "Single Malt" some may get rather soft knees and irritation of the mucous membranes. We try to counteract this with Mugler's "Pure Malt" as an entry, but it does not always help ...

“So I now announce the culmination of the tasting. Are you ready? Nice!

“Do not forget - for the first impression you have to move the malt around the tip of the tongue ... yeah, a full sherry approach and a clear, yet a bit austere woody note, which have already been suggested during nosing ... hardly any smoke or peat... but an uber-fruity pear note, which leaves a Glenfiddich standing flat against the wall, hehe ... - Here's an almost archetypal start for a, say, 20-year-old Aberlour from the Sherry-Hogshead. Very beautiful.

“Now carefully over the palate... Very good! Here we get even stronger oak notes with just wee hints of vanilla. That’s far enough time in the barrel for that spirit, I think – and obviously a finishing in refill Bourbon barrels – does that make any sense? Anyway - if you like oak, that’s... Oops! The gentleman back there got something on the back of his tongue… we’ll just wait, until he’s able to breathe and you can hear me again.”

...

For the finish, which develops as a surprise, I recommend to close your eyes: this takes us from the Speyside to the middle of the bushy-herbaceous Highlands, far away from all maritime - and if you suddenly see yourself sitting in the prairie - it’s nothing wrong with that: there’s "Cowboy Grass" peeking around the corner!

Thank you for allowing us to fly with Durga-Air, Mr. Moltz!


10/28/2017
3 Awards
If one has a weakness for concept fragrances, Comme des Garçons is always in view: The balancing act between joy of experimentation and wearability (and - not to forget - availability) gets this house like almost no other.

So now the topic 'concrete', to which CdG has already approached; perhaps most clearly with "Series 6: Synthetic - Garage", which realizes ‘concrete’ as the aldehydic, petrol-drenched floor. How can the construction material itself appear?

Stupendous: The start may be called mineral; a slight whiff of the well-known garage floor appears. No "Petrichor"-asphalt, no "Nox"-clay. I rather imagine the smell of a mineral mask: not predominantly mineral, but flowery and spicy scented ooze. So this concrete has just been mixed; instead of gravel and lime, maybe cardamom and surely sandalwood are stirred into the mash, the floral remains soft, achromatic & abstract, the conjured consistency is highly viscous - or, maybe, creamy.

I surely prefer to let this concrete to my skin - who had the misfortune, to dive in fresh concrete with bare hands, knows what I mean. In any case “Concrete” is an exciting candidate for (blind) tests and layer experiments.

By the way: Anyone who misses the joy of the expected concrete smell, is compensated by the haptic encounter with the bottle.


10/24/2017
4 Awards
"Fascinating, but intolerable" seems to be the tenor. I explicitly confirm:
Cold smoke. Burnt ash. The animal disintegrates to dry dust when touched.
Yes.

And – No. Is it just the wrong touch? This ashes glimmers and quivers. If you give it time, listen to it, you qietly hear the animal - and you never know whether it is comfortably purring or growling.

Sexy? No. No veil of honey, no cushion of amber; the given violet is obviously metaphorical and illustrates the feeling after the header.
Unisex? Absolutely - with the curiosity and the courage to think the unthinkable, to want the impossible, to wear the unbearable.

"Intricate" generates a sillage, which can not be underestimated, and has an impressive longevity – and that is on the skin. On clothing it lasts 24 hours plus, particularly when just sprayed medium to larger rooms can easily be irradiated. Thus respectful dosage is recommended. This is answered in the course of hours with increasing purring, but without ever the teeth to hide: it’s the chest hair under the turtleneck and gray worsted yarn.

If a fragrance can last for two years to open and unfold its beauty, it must be a very special one. Not only patience is required, not even above all. It's luck.

And that has its price.