AwesomenessAwesomeness' Perfume Reviews

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5 Awards
I usually have difficulty with white florals and with over-the-top aldehydes. Based on the description & notes, this was what I was expecting out of Lumiere. Thankfully, it's not. Lumiere is all about roses & woods, and it wears like a crystalline, rose woody on me.

Lumiere opens clean, smooth, almost smokey, and just a bit sweet. The floral mix is quite unusual & extremely subdued. In the heart, I get rose, iris, & violet on a predominately vanilla & tonka bean base. The woods really come out of hiding in the 2nd hour or so. Very long lasting for an EdT (6+ hour range) that continually changes and evolves over the entire wear. Lumiere is a wrist inhaler that wears close to the skin.

I think Lumiere is best on cold, wet days when it wears soft & smooth. I think of it as my Winter Solstice perfume, because it seems strangely appropriate when the days are short, the sun low in the sky, and light takes on an ephemeral character. If I lived in Scandinavia, I would wear it at night during the Summer Solstice because Lumiere has that quality of light.

Lumiere also shares qualities with Gres Cabaret. Not only do Lumiere & Cabaret share notes, they share the same nose - Michel Almairac. These two perfumes are definitely smell-alikes, not the same, but similar rose woody scents with crystalline characteristics.

The new Lumiere is exactly that - gleaming light. I own the original, yes I do, but love this one new more!


4 Awards
I love the new Lumiere, which is 80% Gres Cabaret to me. I just had to try the original, which so many pine for. I managed to buy a part bottle of the edp -- The purple Femme-silhouetted bottle, now with orange juice. My exhilaration of this find turned into Meh! on my first test.

If the new Lumiere is 80% Gres Cabaret, then the old Lumiere is 80% Madame Rochas.

The old Lumiere opens with a classic aldehyde blast, along the lines of Madame Rochas but not as shrill. The opening gives way to a nice floral green. Pretty & long-lasting, with the Spring bulbs (hyacinths and daffodils) taking the stage, but hardly unique. It does sweeten through the wear, but I don't get the glorious woods that others report. It dries down to a soapy muck that softly lingers. The EdP wears close to the skin but for 6-8 hours.

Overall, on my skin it's very much like Madame Rochas, which is not a surprise given the shared notes. Sometimes there is a reason a fragrance is reformulated. I would have to say Lumiere was reformulated because it's not luminated. Light? Meh!

On a *brighter* note, I tested Azuree on the other arm today while testing this one. Azuree *outshines* Lumiere.

Puns intended.


2 Awards
Washington Square opens with rose & geranium, and it's is a tad sweet. The opening is quite nice, and each time I try it I immediately think, "I've got to get a bottle." However, it's everything after the opening that doesn't work for me. As it dries, there's an astringent, almost aftershave like quality to it. It trends to an aromatic for a while before settling in as a pillowy amber musk.

I know many say it's on the feminine side of unisex, but I disagree. The opening is most certainly feminine. But for the rest of the life of the scent, I'd say it's on the masculine side of unisex. There are many masculine accords which I don't wear well, and Washington Square seems to have some of them.

It's interesting & unusual, and not without merit. However, Washington Square is simply not wearable for me. Ironically, Washington Square is probably the Bond which best works for me personally, and I've gone through a number of bon-tons. I appreciate the fragrances & the quality of the ingredients, but the Bond line-up is just not for me.

5 Awards
For me, Notorious is a scrubber.

Like others, I thought Notorious would be scent fit for a screen siren. NOT! Instead, Notorious is more like a 767 airplane coming in for a landing, over & over again ... right above your house. The first time you're interested & a bit thrilled. But after that you only become annoyed & irritated, more so as it continues.

Notorious is a heavy, suffocating, cloying, white floral bomb on me. Although not listed, I am most certain there is a lot of jasmine, very little peony & absolutely no carnation in Notorious. I have problems with the cheap jasmine accord in mass market fragrances. Notorious has a white jasmine accord which my skin amplifies. My skin makes a mess of this scent. Actually, I think the scent was a mess before it hit my skin.

1 Awards
This review is for what I believe to be the reformulated Nirmala. It strikes me as a copy of Angel by Thierry Mugler. It's nice but there are better quality fragrances in my opinion ... like the original Nirmala or Mugler's Angel.

2 Awards
Are you dying to try another fruity, white floral with a base of clean musk? If so, Stop, Sample & Sniff this one. However, be prepared to dole out $100+ for a 50ml bottle for a Been There, Done That fragrance.

Otherwise, move along ... there's nothing to see here.

3 Awards
Although this fragrance is Hiver (Winter) in the Les Saisons series (The Seasons), it's really not appropriate for winter to me. It's a great, light & cool musk that best for warmer weather.

A green floral? Not to me. I primarily get a linear, lime musk. Sometimes I get a bit of spiciness, but for the most part VCA Les Saisons Hiver is a cool, citrus aromatic, which makes it an ideal scent for warm days.

I have to overspray Hiver because the EDT is so light and my skin just drinks it in. It wears close to the skin but does have good staying power, like a good French cologne. Hiver does reveal different layers and it "kicks in" at the second or third hour. But the layers seem to repeat themselves, offering nothing new. This is why I say it's linear. Maybe to a trained nose it's not. Or, maybe that's what makes it special - the repeated unfolding of itself.

I'm glad to have a bottle, but it won't warrant repurchase. The bottle is beautiful in its simplicity, like the SJP Lovely bottle in that regard - simple beauty. However, the metallic snowflakes are just plain cheesy.

2 Awards
Yes, that's right, Montale Powder Flowers is a dirty skin scent.

I've tried this on numerous occasions when just out of the shower. I'm met with a long-lasting blast of aldehydes, which are not my friend. It's like Chanel 5 to me ... way too much of a good thing. I can sense the quality of this Mondale fragrance, and that's there is lots more to it. However, the aldehydes are overwhelming.

However, when sprayed on not-so pristine, clean skin, Powder Flowers is just lovely on me. Yes, it is still aldehydic, but that that tends to soapy on me. The real difference between clean and dirty skin is the development of the fragrance. On dirty skin, I get a soapy rose on woods. It's very Samsara, but not quite as loud.

Not always even in wear, but one to try if you like aldehydes, soap, or Samara.

5 Awards
When I first tried Vitriol d'Oeillet, I did not find it carnation enough. Then I realized that perhaps it was not a carnation scent at all, but an impression of carnation. That may or many not be true.

But now, after about 4 wears, I find Vitriol d'Oeillet to be like a lightly spiced rose sitting on transparent woods. It opens clean, like soap, and has aldehydes. It then warms before transitioning to a that spiced rose.

I would say that Vitriol d'Oeillet is on the feminine side of unisex, but not by much. It's a very grounded fragrance, and the base notes are easy to wear, which is rare for me with most of the unisex Lutens.

Vitriol d'Oeillet wears close to the skin & lasts a good, long while too. It's pleasant enough to draw compliments but unique enough to keep me smelling my wrists. However, it is absolutely compelling when re-applied, which is when Vitriol d'Oeillet really shines. This is one of those fragrances that's best sprayed in the morning after a showe, then respray in the evening for a date, dinner or event. It's versatile and can stretch from morning to night, and across any season for that matter.

I was initially on the fence about this fragrance. But when I learned to stop expecting a carnation, the fragrance began to grow on me.

4 Awards
OK, I admit it. I like powder, I like gourmands, and I like this!

This is truth in advertising: With Talc Gourmand, you get what you pay for ... a powdery gourmand made of high quality ingredients. Moreover, unlike many other high-quality powdery gourmands (the Loukhoums from KM & Montale, Sexy Angelic, others), Talc Gourmand is incredibly persistent and a bit strong. Talc Gourmand is a one-spray & walk-through fragrance. It will stay with you through the day ... and with your clothing and in your bathroom. Frankly, I like fragrances like that: At this price point, I want a fragrance to last, and Talc Gourmand does.

Unfortunately, it's not bottle-worthy for me. There's no development, like you might get with Sexy Angelic, and it's not as well-balanced as, say, the Montales or KMs. Nevertheless, my decant is getting plenty of rotation, and I use Talc Gourmand often as a comfort scent and at bedtime.

But please -- one spray only. Talc Gourmand is a persistent little thing.

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