Axiomatic

Axiomatic

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Axiomatic 4 months ago 35 32
10
Bottle
8
Sillage
8
Longevity
10
Scent
Translated Show original Show translation
The angry man
Can four listed components capture a state of mind, indeed a character trait?
And, for example, olfactorily trace the urge to roar out a deep-seated tension in the shabbily short window of constricted freedom?

Two questions are posed to the second man in the fragrance series, he will answer them convincingly.

Here now is the apparent discord of a troubled period of time.

Hiss!

Resinous benzoin in the greeting.
Now easily found in oriental fragrances, in 1982 it was the ultimate slap in the face.
Boy, open your eyes!

Certainly, a certain citric background with spectral, herbaceous aspects is evidence of well thought-out creative artistry. But what counts here is the raw, woody nature.
Can't you see the wood for the trees?

This resin is so exposed that its sweet side disappears completely in the shade.
Slightly salty, a bead of good Ambras sweat will put it in a fighting mood.
Hunter's fences want to be jumped over and a high seat climbed.
The view is sharpened.
Watch out, my friend!

Once at the top, introspection begins.
Cultivated animalism creeps warmly up the leather jacket.
Nature has been tamed, that's the way it is.
Light oakmoss with a hint of sorrel frees the pores of the skin to draw that naturally tart, spicy masculinity from the body's glands.
The dignified underlining of the body.
The rope act of rutting self-control.
The social acceptance of the three-day beard.

The fact that the fragrance does not drift into unbridled brutality is thanks to a noble iris.
German iris?
Quite possibly.
But it is not its lovely purple blossom that is allowed to mediate here, no, its rhizome is extracted nobility.
Soothing, soothing in confidence, the divine messengers accompany the second man.
Lightly powdery, subtly floral and with a hint of golden amber.
The emotional state is ordered and soothed.

There he stands, full of inner performance and in control.

For thus the fragrance will settle, balancing the harsh contrasts.

By the limited time window mentioned above, I mean the mood of the period 1982 to 1984.
There was a lot of change in the air.
Not only the replacement of Helmut Schmidt and the confirmation of Helmut Kohl, the nuclear armament, the initial digitalization and the accompanying change in the production process.
A certain new romantic urge and search for freedom on forest-lined country roads spread.
The motorcycle achieved cult status.
And in leather clothing, even if it was just a leather jacket, it was possible to endure along the fir trees and find oneself again.

Apart from the lovely NDW - Neue Deutsche Welle - Spliff created a different and more profound understanding of current affairs for a brief moment.
Their song "Herzlichen Glückwunsch" illustrates for me the inner soul of Man Two.
The video couldn't be more fitting.

In his review, Lancaster85 describes perfectly the exquisite range of care products with which this splendor of fragrance was equipped.
At that time, all Jil Sander fragrances were produced in Wiesbaden.

As fashionable as the 1980s decade was, the market presence of the second man remained short-lived.

But the urge for the forest was fortunately not subject to a fleeting fashion.
And that man could beguile again today with his romantic streak.
32 Comments
Axiomatic 4 months ago 47 35
10
Bottle
8
Sillage
9
Longevity
10
Scent
Translated Show original Show translation
The imaginary man
1981
Difficulties at the start of the decade, as certain burdens of the 1970s have to be overcome.
The second oil price shock, gigantic interest rate hike in the USA as an insane countermeasure, stagnation of the German economy and rise in unemployment.
New technologies conquer the production process, create innovative freedom in the entertainment industry.
In the fragrance sector, the ultimate hits of the year show that countermeasures had to be taken in the face of declining consumer sentiment.
When Greek heroes, the black "Antaeus (Eau de Toilette) | Chanel" and the white "Kouros (Eau de Toilette) | Yves Saint Laurent" duel in Paris, people in Hamburg remain calm.
One observes very closely how the individual quietly becomes aware of himself and how social interaction is thrown into disarray.
The analog has danced itself out.

Insight.

Jil Sander showed flair and foresight when she was able to win Jacques Artarit for two of her legendary fragrances.
Also on board is Peter Schmidt as the designer of the flacons according to the Bauhaus style. He will show with bravura what form means.
Two cubes as a container, a cylinder as a cap.
The basics of sober elegance.

Here is the fragrance that should master the art of opposites and their interpenetration.

Sizzle!

The pure man opens green aromatic, slightly citrusy.
Very simple.
Apparently.
Because the oregano will contribute a very masculine spice, which is soothed by the basil and tartly drawn by the sage, slightly urine-like.
Add to this a citric base that almost drifts into the ethereal.
Chypre as a film negative.

Brain activated.

Next.
Let's not fool ourselves, the detached heart will analyze the flowers soberly.
No overreaction.
The rose geranium offers no Black Forest idyll, dry and tart, it finds its way into the big city without difficulty.
No love affair.
Only the true feeling counts.
The powderiness of the garden carnation falls like fine plaster from the concrete walls.
The precise ration of cinnamon colors the waves of Zen pebbles on patchouli floors.

Tadao Andō.

Sensual.
Castoreum and oakmoss falsify the unthinkable.
With warming nutmeg, a new sexual aesthetic breaks with old habits.
Cultivated, distanced and at the same time penetrating all the senses.
The perfection of physical desire.
Black and white clarity.

Robert Mapplethorbe.

Man - naked - as a seated sculpture on chrome and leather.
Marcel Breuer's Wassily chair breaks through surfaces, creates insights.
Chiseled torso.
Labdanum emphasizes with black leather, but does not cover.
Opposite the waiting couch - Cassina model by Le Corbusier - on wooden parquet.
Contemplation.
Silence.
Action.

Second sexual revolution.

Jacques Artarit has mastered the art of interpenetrating contrasts.
For where a strict fragrance progression should mark endings, he breathes an independent flare into the pyramidal sections.
If you think you are in the base, the tart green components of the top note suddenly reappear and the floral heart throbs softly as if behind a curtain.

Polar Bear by Grauzone provides the perfect musical backdrop.
The group consistently makes the break with the 1970s that was long overdue.
Minimalist and striking.
Not only the polar cold as a contrast to the retreat into the warm self reflects the contrasts, the confused interruption of the dance rhythm illustrates the indissoluble interpenetration of the fragrance levels, only to then allow the apparent solitaires to set the pace in the next section until the next shuffle.

The most convincing aspect is the countering of previous animalic ideas.
The oakmoss gives it a strange purity.
The physicality is discernible, but so dignified as if it were staged. Nothing is left to chance.
This oxymoron almost elevates the flesh to the realm of the imaginary.

The flowers are congenial.
The classic rose-patchouli theme is masterfully driven towards zero.
Rose geranium, always a shadowy companion to the magnificent rose in other fragrances, is allowed to present its tart beauty here all on its own in well-dosed doses.
Dry and with subtly pleasant emotional mastery, because it is by no means emotionally cold.
She has merely learned from the injuries of the previous decade.
And these are gently covered up with powdery garden carnation.

Labdanum as a fixative remains leathery, without immediately coming up with a whole mackerel of notes.
The balance between coarseness and sophistication.
A small piece of leather, very restrained, very intimate.

And here we have come full circle to the new leather chypre that has made history.

Pure perfection.

35 Comments
Axiomatic 4 months ago 44 40
8
Bottle
8
Sillage
9
Longevity
8.5
Scent
Translated Show original Show translation
Brutalus kalleiensis
Ojemine, from the dusty back row of bottles still to be organized, a bully spits on the floor right next to my desk.
Just what I needed in young 2024.
Sure, postponed doesn't mean canceled, silly me.
So, let's get down to business quickly and describe the soup in a nutshell.

Hiss!

Babble, babble.
Galbanum quite good.
Yawn.
Oud chips from the retort.
Räkel.
Banger of the 1980s.

So, a quick jingle before I can enjoy a restful sleep in a warm bed.
Drunk with sleep...

"The house of Bogart succeeds once again with a new creation."

Shit, this thing is already ten years old.
Set new tab.

"This year, the House of Bogart is celebrating the tenth anniversary of its bulky slap in the face of art oud.
Those in the mood for a proper tavern brawl will be satisfied with soapy galbanum, coarse leather, dried graveyard flowers and spices.
Holds well and projects magnificently.
Price/performance are not objectionable.
Awaken the tobacco-chewing, uncouth Texan in you!
You are the law!"

Well, that should be enough. Send it off and call it a day.
Yawn.
Off to bed!

After five minutes...

Knock knock...

The door is wrenched open, a dark figure storms in and my swivel chair is violently turned around.
A tattooed hand flips over my table lamp and I am blinded by the beam of light.

Kalle: Hello, master!
So we meet again. Have you forgotten my fair face, eh?
And what am I reading here?
My signature and Texans?

He's choking me with the collar of my sweater.

A: Chhhalle, waththth for a surprisegg...

K: I like that, it's a good start to the year!
So, spit it out, what do you have against my scent, hey?
Did they put "sissy" on your birth certificate?

A: Chhhalle, my air horn!

He lets go and I gasp for air.

K: So, let's practise this until it works, Mäsiär!

He even drenches himself under the armpits with the liquor, the last hiss finds its way through the buttons of his jeans.
There it stands, the sewer rat of the darkest corners of notorious neighborhoods.
"Haue" is tattooed in Fraktur on the left palm, while "kuscheln" is immortalized in italics on the right.

K: Let me put it this way, if we agree on a few changes to your stupid short line, I'll be gracious.
I've heard from oral surgeons that no one has ever liked the other outcome.

A: That's what you call coercion garnished with threats of violence, lovely suburban hyena!
But I don't want to be like that.

I sniff thoughtfully at my opponent, who tenses his triceps in warning.
Well, the impression of the gear oil isn't that bad.

A: Well, Brutalus kalleiensis, I'll be lenient then.
I like the bottle. I would even be inclined to say that the brownish tint is in the context of the original greenish version of that 1980 OMS as a generic prototype of the 1970s color scheme, a blueprint in the broadest sense, a half-baked precursor, so to speak.

I get a slight slap on the back of the head for this.

K: Digga, one more like that and all you'll smell is trouble!

Quick semantic adjustment.

A: Knorke Pulle!
Alder, the opening is crassly spicy!
Awesome seventies feeling from the galbanum and bergamot.
The pissy thyme strulls properly.

K: We are on the right track..

A: Wow, the territory marker!
Becomes slightly soapy.
Hmm, warm and woody.
Ok, synthetic but good.

K: Go on!

A: Dry rose geranium. Full of the midday heat in Austin, Texas.

K: Watch out Kleener!

A: Um, I mean Argelès-sur-Mer!
Could also be Benidorm.

K: Better...

A: Sexy leather on cinnamon, a little allspice.
As I said, labdanum and patchouli always score points here.
So, I'd say this makes you le roi du quatre-vingt-treize.

K: What am I?

A: Hot spot in the north of Paris, but let's not go there.
You're already gorgeous enough to decorate the Tiergarten in the capital anyway.

K: Meenste?
Mariendorf Süd would be enough for me!

My tiredness gets the better of me and I forget my hospitality.

A: Let me tell you, the clock has struck thirteen!
So, off you go, so that you can pick up some good H/S!
Adele!

K: Man Axio, you're a good buddy.
Sometimes you just need the right motivation, don't you?
Give it a rest.
Have a good time with dear Kalle.

And so the night tiger swings its fur into the darkness of the night.
His scent plume smells slightly ambery.

Oh, if only I had told him that the scent is not entirely unwise.
I like the dry, bright interruption of the woody notes with the green, acidic aspects.

Also, it all ends on a very memorable papyrus note.
This will certainly leave a nice impression the next morning.

Not everyone has.

So, good night.

40 Comments
Axiomatic 4 months ago 38 37
10
Bottle
8
Sillage
9
Longevity
8.5
Scent
Translated Show original Show translation
The nibbled man
1989 wasn't exactly an exciting year, more like a miserable farewell to a loud and hedonistic decade.
As if you had crawled quietly into bed with a hangover from the shrill party.

Raspberry red, these eccentric years were to close their photo album and inadvertently set a huge new trend.

Shall I sniff the neck of the youngster in the picture?

Hiss!

Dear Alain Alchenberger, your congenial nose should point the way avant-garde.
Hats off to you!

Your collage of fougère, fruits and oriental base brought the turning point in the year of change.
And it will serve as a model for many successful descendants.
Let's hear it for your skill and foresight!

Peter Schmidt poured the perfect and minimalist bottle into shape. A small notch on all sides loosened the base like a needle.
The theme could not have been designed more appropriately: the breaking up of the rigid straight line.

The fragrance progression is unusual.
There is no pyramidal effect here, it is transparencies of different directions that are overlapped.
Like the video art of the time.

Of the fougère, lavender and the herbs tarragon and aniseed, which were so popular with Jil Sander at the time, are clearly discernible.
Some pine and a mossy base waft around in a classic way.

But now everything suddenly turns reddish.
The second foil contains fruity notes, above all raspberries.
A tension chord threatens to span between tart, herbaceous green and gently sweet and sour raspberry red.
Here it is, the incomparable character of the fragrance, no confusion possible.

Tonka will brush the whole thing with a conciliatory overcoat. This third film drifts towards the Orient.
Warm and comforting with sandalwood, slightly ambery.
I won't deny that the overall impression is somewhat dull, yet the herbs pierce through this invisible blanket.
Another reference to the interruption of the base of the bottle.

The composition is somewhat peculiar.
For the entire duration, the brain tries to break up the tension chord.
Sweet?
Aromatic?
And back again!
You look at each other in the divan...

A band from Hamburg made a name for itself indirectly matching the scent.
The Jeremy Days.
These five guys embodied the zeitgeist of the time in the most subtle way.
Perfectly coiffed, elegant understatement in fine fabrics, high-quality glasses.
The yuppiesque advertising industry of the Hanseatic city is finished.
One of their pop songs even reached eleventh place in the charts in 1989.
Brand New Toy.

If you watch the video, you'll understand the fragrance aura better.
Dirk, the singer, is haunted by an angelic, female figure.
He is deliberately filmed against a red background, similar to that of the packaging.
The following contrasts:
Boys in designer clothes, the Hanseatic flair for dark shades of color.
The female angel draped in white gold like a baroque forbidden fruit, her lips raspberry red.

Well, chord of suspense?

I find the idea of showing sexy Dirk in his underwear amusing. This is, with respect, very "sweetly" tailored.
Let's cuddle up!

And the young boy in the picture unfortunately only allowed himself two bottles of the soulful man at the time and probably contributed to the quiet setting of this work of art.

But fortunately, experiences cannot be adjusted.
37 Comments
Axiomatic 4 months ago 40 36
9
Bottle
8
Sillage
9
Longevity
9
Scent
Translated Show original Show translation
The enigma of leather
2023 is drawing inexorably to a close and, last but not least, my nose is filled with delicious leather!

Wistfulness and confidence chill the sparkling wine and giggle quietly as I try to quickly escape the torrent of emotions.

This one sentence, weighing tons and pregnant with meaning, I was to understand in the end over a rocky path of experience.
"You don't buy a leather jacket, you earn it!"

The person who said this will hopefully give me a little sign with a shooting star on New Year's Eve, wherever he is.

Because a very dark leather is waiting impatiently to be worn before midnight.

Hiss!

This dark green bergamot on galbanum, spiced with peppercorns, instantly plunges me into a time when I wore the protective aura of "Jacomo de Jacomo (2011) | Jacomo" at night after my swimming training.
This incredible blackness blazed surrealistically warm.
Fighting fire with fire.
This year now without cumin, but with rounded pepper.
The maturing process of the soul, like good wine in fine barrels.

My faithful companions, blue-blooded lavender with rose geraniums in the family crest, look understanding and humble.
For I may once again put on this tanned leather, which has experienced many joys and sorrows.

If my companion and leather jacket were taken from me, the scent re-establishes the connection.
What a leather!

And just as you take stock at the end of the year, a narrative opens up in the leather-bound book of experiences.

Wandering in the darkest night, hope almost extinguished, is by no means a comforting endeavor.
However, when magical resins, mystical labdanum and especially bright elemi, confront the obstacles, the violet ray of light of lavender offers the clearing of the mind.

And how you are rewarded for persevering and carrying on!

Finely ambered, softly glazed with tonka, the way is paved. And this is smokily awakened with patchouli and softly springy.

This is it, the desired resolution to the chapter that was left open back then!

What was abruptly torn was allowed to heal slowly and gently.
No more sunglasses in the darkness, but looking with gentle eyes towards the dawn.

Suddenly you are completely with yourself and are reminded of the happiness of being alive, because you have to continue on your way.

Elemi resin, with the channeled goodness of sunny bergamot, like an emerald, manages to bring light into the darkness along the way

Dressed in a leather jacket, so familiar to me, I smile now and wink gratefully at that soul for having set me the enigmatic task of leather.
For I am lucky enough to enjoy the solution to this riddle in the company of the dearest living!

And so I wish you all all the best, lots of health, happiness and love for the coming year!

And as a conclusion and new beginning, a Provençal saying:

"May we be, if not more, at least not less next year!"

36 Comments
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