Bloodxclat

I would like to introduce a project to you. Based on a crowdfunding the story of pernoire started. Two perfume-interested guys from my hometown Basel had the idea to develop perfumes with the help of the community. Whoever buys a perfume is automatically "entitled" to contribute with ideas. Perfumer is Vincent Micotti, who is not unknown and has brought out a few great, as well as very controversial fragrances with his brand YS-UZAC.

pernoire advertises with 100% Swissness, refers to the high quality raw materials, the limited edition of 1000 pcs. and an exclusive right to be able to bring in the development of other fragrances with. Price-wise we are at 50ml / CHF 250 (230 EUR)

You have the basics, let's get to the fragrance.

Short sour yuzu opening, almost a bit ethereal. Then the resinous-smoky wave that is relatively concise. Unsweet dark berries are backed by unsweet and dry vanilla. Exciting. Here "Blackmail" by Kerosene comes to mind as a comparison - but that was more fire / woody / smoky and not resinous-smoky like Masar.

Something pungent in the nose I feel a synthetic (which is not necessarily bad) either the "ozonic notes" which I can't find anywhere else, or is it the synthetic amber which was used? AmberXtreme has the same effect on my nose.

After an hour, we have thick, warm, golden amber with a leather tinge. A little smoky, too. This part reminds me of Carner's "Rose&Dragon" (though that one was more floral)

Then the scent gets more subtle, creamy. Sandalwood, vanilla and resins create a thick texture.

After 3h, the fragrance becomes a little sweeter-animalic. Reminds in the drydown of Malbrum "Tigre de Bengale" and of Nishane's "Afrika Olifant" (although that one was a bit stallier-oudier) and Black Afghano Nasomatto.

Something interesting happens at 4h, a slight gunpowder scent spreads. This is exciting!

The scent then remains constant resinous-creamy and slightly sweet. Very pleasant.

All in all, a great amber resin fragrance. The scent remains very linear and constant. Sillage is in the middle range, durability is very good (12h). It is not a revelation, but a consistently solid, well-made fragrance with great durability. Whether this is now worth the 250.- bucks, everyone must decide for themselves.

NO ADMITTANCE sign on the door. Metal door, dented. Basement exit, spray-painted. Safrana is outside smoking. Kretek cigarettes by the smell. Let's go inside. The old cinnamon chocolate security man pours a brandy at the entrance. Rosie, the dark rose geranium, sits in the lounge smoking a thick cigar made from the best dark exotic tobacco leaves. Spicy tobacco smoke mingles with the incense scent from last night. Tonki, the sweet bean swings on the dance floor and goes hard at Dr. Harzighofen. No prisoners here. Harzighofen gets wrapped around his finger after another brandy. Foxy's still got a dirty muzzle from the woods. Earth sticks there in your fur, but Holzi the light forest chord doesn't care. He holds his branches protectively around sweet Foxy. Milli Vanilli looks around uncertainly before she runs into Leatherface. He's left his chainsaw at home and is out having fun. Everyone has a great time together. And maybe one thing or another more.
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A special fragrance, which is difficult to classify. On the one hand, it clearly goes in the direction of gourmand: chocolate, vanilla, tonka and the spices. On the other hand, the fragrance is very smoky and alcoholic - tobacco and incense make a great team. The combination with the earthy dark chocolate, the dry spices and the rose geranium is very well done and very special. Herbaceous-earthy-spicy-smoky. The edges are smoothed out a bit by the vanilla. Tonka adds depth. What exactly makes it so animalic, I can't figure out. The leather with the geranium? No idea.

The whole mix could be an absolute nightmare, but Bruno Fazzolari manages to strike a beautiful balance here. Simple is not the fragrance, that's for sure. But really again something incomparable! Just for the courage to create this concoction should get Ummagumma 10 points

"Usar" is the name given to the vetiver on various Indonesian islands. So that we are all in the picture what this is all about: Vetiver!

Perfumer Stephen Dirkes has lived in Indonesia for many years and was very passionate about creating an authentic Indonesian fragrance. The ingredients read like a "who is who" of endemic products, plants and spices.

The lime (Jeruk Nipis) starts very fresh in combination with earthy ginger and glowing cloves. The whole thing comes across sharp, strong and intense. Special, refreshing and really interesting.

Benzoin (Hajimon) is creamy, with dark nuances, very resinous and never too sweet. The interaction with vetiver is great cinema. The vetiver starts out familiarly herbaceous and smoky, but then goes in an ethereal and grassy direction. I get cut grass, lemon grass, aniseed.

Lime ginger continues to accompany this green-creamy earthy wave of spices. The oud (gaharu) used is bright and rather light, framing the fragrance with a slight woody smokiness.

Stephen used a mixture of three different Indonesian vetiver oils. This really makes the scent very different from what we've smelled before. Usar has been woven very finely and with a lot of craftsmanship and heart and soul - at no time a powerhouse. I see the fragrance more for spring and summer, this top note will be an absolute delight when it's hot. Durability between 5-6 hours.

All in all a great exotic take on vetiver, brewed with beautiful raw materials from far away islands. For me so far one of the best tested vetiver scents.

What could have gone wrong in that dive? I couldn't remember. My condition when I pushed open the weathered door to the exit of the tavern had already been ruined. By then it was already too late. In the wake of my euphoric drunkenness, I came across a few sailors from the British Merchant Navy. Card games, Five Finger Filet, some magic and PUFF! And when the stupid sailors had their money out of my pocket. What fun

I had made the calculation without Commander Jonathan Barnet, who had kept an eye on me since my arrival in Port Royal. "Calico Jack, well... " was the last thing before my field of vision collided with a teak chair leg and my nose turned to red mist.

Drops collect on the bars. I hear the surf and smell the sea. Ground mist crawls into my cell in the sand. An old spice box - cinnamon or aniseed - did they take - old wood and bars? Are you serious? I gently knead my crooked nose. The two guards sit around the campfire. The smell of freshly brewed tea rises in my nose. How can these subservient dogs drink that horrible stuff. Disgusting.

The sugar cane to the left of my prison sway gently in the mist and a warm familiar musk note enters my nose - Anne? Seconds later arrows whiz through the air. One hits its target - hissing the tea tips into the embers. The second arrow gets lost in a spice bag - anise stars and nutmeg spill over the sand. "Hey, what's going on... ?" Was the last before the third arrow found its target.

With a jerk, the old crate behind me breaks open; bald Pete has half of the back wall in his hands while tattooed Sam peeps through his blowpipe. Behind it, grinning in the glow of the fire, is Anne Bonny - my wife. "Lock Calico Jack in a spice box. Barnet will get to know us. Let's go, come on."

In the distance, HMS Tyger danced in the waves while the rest of the crew celebrated Commander Barnet's birthday.

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Airy, light, sweet-smoky, amber and musk, spices and tea. An unbelievably great scent that immediately captivated me and forced me to tell you pirate stories ;)

Bitter Rose Broken Spear

The old stones
meandering through the village
Furrows of the wheels

The old stones
still warm from summer
Houses from grey

The old stones
washed around by the eternal salt
Roar of the surf

The old stones
surrounded by bright smoke
Crackling of the embers

The old rose
lying in dry green
The wind is shifting

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An extremely fascinating fragrance, which has fascinated me very much. Durga has again done what he does best - emotional nature scents.

The scent starts strong, bitter, herbaceous and very cool, a very aromatic herb infusion from the garden which goes in the bitter direction. Not bitter in the sense of e.g. Angelica Bitter or Herbal Bitter or Alcoholic Bitter, but rather bitter in the direction of the bitter juice of a plant stem.

Smoke is also strongly represented, one stays near a nearly extinguished fire, where herbs and thistles are dried over the embers. A mineral and metallic undertone resonates, which actually reminds of iron / welding and wet stones.

The rose flashes up from time to time, it lies in the dark and is covered with smoked herbs. After a few hours the scent becomes softer and warmer, probably due to the amber.

All in all, the scent reminds me very much of a small coastal town in northern France in autumn - faded gardens, dry herbs, smoking fireplaces, the old stone houses built close to the waterfront.

Shelf life is 8-10h and the sillage is rather strong, especially in the first two hours. Do not be put off by the rose!